(Topic ID: 27035)

Tech:Gottlieb Hulk System 1 boot problems

By mstire

11 years ago


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  • 25 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by lb45
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

I've been racking my brain for a couple weeks now trying to find out why my Hulk will boot up properly sometimes and other times it does something random at boot up like no 5 second delay and displays coming right on or kicking out the ball at boot up or random sounds.

I've re-capped and re-flowed the pins on the power supply and have proper output voltages to the CPU and the displays. Replaced the two caps near the power connection on the CPU. Measured 5.08 v and -12.13 v at the caps on the CPU. All ground mods have been done as well.

I remote mounted the battery. There was zero corrosion on the board. All the boards look super clean and all the connection contacts are nice and bright. I also re-pinned all the connectors.

Made sure both slam switches are closed and both tilt switches are open

Point of interest:
I have the Hulk out in the garage where I've been working on it. Now that the weather has been getting much cooler, I can go out first thing in the morning (maybe 55 degrees in the garage)and it will boot up properly every time I try
it. If I leave it on for a while it warms up and starts doing the random boot.

Once I get it to boot up properly everything works and plays like it should with the exception of the knocker and one display which I'll address later.

I carefully and slowly looked over every square inch of the CPU board (front and back) looking for any cold or cracked solder joints but everything just looks too good.

What am I missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

#2 11 years ago

Bump. Anybody?

#3 11 years ago

The most notorious thing on those systems are the connectors. They can make the machine do all sorts of weird things. First thing I do is the ground mod followed immediately by connectors. After that, I start chasing down the other issues that are there. Change those connectors and see what you have then.
Check this link if you havent already.
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/index.htm
Good luck!

#4 11 years ago

Thanks, as mentioned in my post I did the ground mods and changed out all the connectors. I have a feeling I'm so close and there is a simple fix that I'm missing. Maybe not.

I've read everything I can find on the net about Sys 1's and there is a lot.

Really don't want to buy a new replacement if I don't have to.

#5 11 years ago

When it's in "problem mode" and consistently not behaving correctly, I would disconnect everything from the CPU except the coin door/slam switch connector and one of the displays. Do you get the 5 second delay then? If yes, add the second display and try again. If it still boots, you've got an issue with the CPU/driver board connector or the playfield itself.

You might try this same test when the machine is cold so you know what to expect on the displays when the CPU boots correctly, but it should be the standard 5 second delay before they kick in.

If it won't boot, disconnect the single display you have connected (power off of course) and connect the other to see if the display is causing a boot problem.

If the board won't consistently boot in this limited connector configuration - absent some type of problem with the slam switch - I'd probably resign myself to the fact there is an unknown (and difficult to diagnose) issue with the CPU board. The last thing I'd probably do before deciding on a new board would be the slam switch modification (got nothing to lose at this point, right?). That way you can take that particular connector out of the equation too and truly isolate the CPU to see if it is booting.

If you truly isolate the issue down to "the machine won't boot properly when it's warmed up", you can start selectively hitting some chips with a little freeze spray while it's having problems (I'd do power off, don't go too overboard) and see if cooling any of them down has any positive impact. Good luck, these things can be a bitch.

#6 11 years ago

Thanks a lot Examiner. I should have just done the slam switch mod last time I had the board out. I'll do it now that the board is out again. I'll try your recommendations tonight when I have time.

I like this approach of isolating everything and putting it back together one connector at a time.

I'll post results as soon as I can.

Thanks, Mike

#7 11 years ago
Quoted from mstire:

I like this approach of isolating everything and putting it back together one connector at a time.

All of these suckers are complicated, and I find that the more variables I can remove from the equation, the easier it is to eliminate potential causes of the problems.

While it sure sounds like you have a CPU issue, this way you will be able to know for sure if it's the CPU board or if there is something on the playfield or the displays that are contributing to the wacky behavior. Nothing worse than ordering a new part, waiting on it to arrive, installing it......and realizing nothing has changed. Especially something expensive like a board.

Wouldn't hurt to reseat any socketed chips on the CPU (might only be one) just for the heck of it.

As an alternative, you could leave it in a cold room, turn it on in the morning, and never turn it off again all day! Or did I read your OP wrong - does it actually reboot itself, or is everything OK until you turn in on and then try to turn it off again?

greg

#8 11 years ago

I had a Solar Ride SYS 1 for a for about 6 years. It worked great. Took it all apart, cleaned it up really nice, touched up the play field and clear coated it. Put it all back together and it still worked great. I never had any issues with it. I must have just been lucky with that machine.

There is one socked chip that I re seated.

On the cool mornings in my garage (maybe 58 degrees) Hulk boots up perfect multiple times in a row. It fails to boot properly if I leave it on and it warms up or the ambient temp in the garage rises above a certain temp.

#9 11 years ago

This may be silly to say but, because it was not mentioned, you should be sure to turn the machine off before connecting or disconnecting any of those displays or you will stand a good chance of creating more problems.

#10 11 years ago

Noticed this on the pinrepair.com gottlieb sys1 link mentioned above.

Might be worth a try...

Problem: My game does strange things.
Answer: Unusual or erratic behavior, especially after game has been on for long time, may be caused by overheating game PROM Z23 on the CPU board. This bipolar PROM gets quite hot, and can cause a game to do very strange things. Try attaching a small heat sink to the PROM with some superglue. Since the game PROMs are hard to find, it is also a good idea to lengthen its life even if you dont have problems. It seems that some PROM chips are more sensitive to heat than others. Alternatively replace the game PROM with a 2716 EPROM adaptor board.

#11 11 years ago

I did the slam switch mod on the CPU and booted up the Hulk this morning when things were cool and all the cables off. Booted right up. Added the cables one at a time and every thing was fine. Took off all the cables again and let it warm up for a while and the boot problems came back.

I used some freeze spray and came to the conclusion the Z2 IC may be the culprit. In all the reading I've been doing someplace mentions Z2 having something to do with the reset circuit.

I'm waiting to hear back from Ed at GPE to see if he has this IC. I think it's worth a try.

I must be missing some pages in my copied manual because there's no schematic page for the CPU board. I found a scan on the net that shows component placement but it is barely legible. I'd like to look into the Z23 prom mention in the previous post but don't even know where it is without that page. I suspect it's the only socked chip on the board.

Is there anyone that could send me a scan of that page or even a close up photo would be great.

Thanks for all of your help. I think I'm almost there.

Mike

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from mstire:

I suspect it's the only socked chip on the board.

Yes it is. Check the pins on the Prom IC for discoloration and oxidation. Be careful when pulling the chip as the pins are fragile. Pascal, in France, used to sell an Eprom replacement that does all 16 System 1 games. I have one I use for testing. Not sure if he still carries it.
Someone also sells replacementm Proms but they are like $30 each, ouch!

Do you have another CPU PCB or know someone that does?
It would be helpful in knowing if the CPU PCB was the culprit or not.
You could always order a replacement CPU from Pascal or the Ni-Wumph guys.

Also are you sure that your Power Supply 5 VDC is rock solid and not wavering?
Good Luck with the troubleshooting.

#13 11 years ago

I did re-seat the prom and the pins looked nice and clean. It would be nice if I could try another board to make sure sure it was the CPU but I don't have one available. I would hate to buy a new replacement and find out the problem was something else.

Every time I check my 5 VDC I get about 5.08. I think I'll leave my DMM connected and see if that voltage changes during boot up or while it's powered on.

1 week later
#14 11 years ago

The Hulk is fixed! I knew it was heat related. Got some freeze spray and narrowed it down to the Z2 chip on the CPU. Ordered one from GPE along with a socket, soldered it in and everything appears to be working perfectly. Apparently the Z2 chip is linked to the reset circuit.

Hulk is working 100 percent and booting up first time every time. One exception - I still have one bad display. trying it in different locations makes no difference. If anyone has one for sale I'd sure be interested.

Thank you to those that responded to my plea. It gave me motivation to persist.

I'll be back, Mike

#15 11 years ago

Good stuff. How much was the Z2 chip? I have a few Sys 1 machines and might buy a chip with my next GPE order. Always handy to have one laying around. This problem is bound to come up again and again as the machines get older and older.

Thanks for all the info on the way to fixing the problem.

#16 11 years ago

That chip was cheap. Like 74 cents. Might as well socket too. Sockets are cheap too.

#17 11 years ago

Hi,
What does it mean "GPE" ?

#18 11 years ago
Quoted from lb45:

Hi,
What does it mean "GPE" ?

Great Plains Electronics

Ed is a good guy!
Fair prices, fast shipping and very knowledgeable.

#19 11 years ago
Quoted from mstire:

The Hulk is fixed!

Good to hear, that's always a satisfying moment.

Quoted from lb45:

What does it mean "GPE" ?

Great Plains Electronics - a retailer in the USA

#20 11 years ago

Thks Pinsiders
Always good to have good source for pieces (parts)
@mstire : Interested in pictures of the machine

#21 11 years ago

Will post some tonight

#22 11 years ago

mstire
Glad to see you got it fixed.

#23 11 years ago

My Hulk really is a beautiful machine now that everything is working perfectly. Coin mechs and all. Except the display which I'm still looking for.

Thanks again for all the Pinside support. I for one would not be able to continue this hobby without all the available tech help and support.

Check out my custom topper.

Mike

hulk_1.JPGhulk_1.JPG hulk_2.JPGhulk_2.JPG hulk_3.JPGhulk_3.JPG hulk_4.JPGhulk_4.JPG hulk_5.JPGhulk_5.JPG hulk_6.JPGhulk_6.JPG

#24 11 years ago

oops, here's the topper hopefully.

hulk_7.JPGhulk_7.JPG

#25 11 years ago

Wow , great shape ! It seems "New"
Would like to have this model in my serie , but it's hard to find easily here in France -
Price around 800/1000 euros for a Hulk.

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