Are you very sure the right connector is in the right place?
Check the wire colors in the schematics.
Get to know the wire color codes.
It looks like you mixed up some connectors.
Put the lock pins in the right place.
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Are you very sure the right connector is in the right place?
Check the wire colors in the schematics.
Get to know the wire color codes.
It looks like you mixed up some connectors.
Put the lock pins in the right place.
Try disconnecting the aux. lampdriver.
Sometimes this board can mess up the signals.
Another cause can be a faulty decoder on the regular lamp driver board.
Like Vid1900 said, swap with a known working board to be sure.
So, the problem isn't the lamp driver board or the aux. lamp board.
That would leave us at the MPU board.
Any chance you can exchange with a working board from another game?
Just to be sure where the problem is.
Any HEF chips on the MPU board?
Is the socket for U10 in good condition?
Verified all connections?
Lamp address, data and strobe 1 is coming from U10.
Quoted from Vanapult:Probed all switches, all were pulsing (buzzing). None stuck high.
According to my manual, J2-2 should be orange with no trace and J2-11 should be orange-black. I do have the orange-black at J2-11.
Switch strobe 1 (ST1) has no playfield switches according to the switch matrix.
So, it's not strange you don't have any orange wire at J2-2.
Strobe 1 (ST1) however is used for the coin door.
Shorts at the coin door can cause this kind of problem.
Like Baracandl said, unplug J2 and J3 (the switches) and see if the problem goes away.
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