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(Topic ID: 98238)

Tech: Wh20 slide brackets cant lock SOLVED


By billsfanmd

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 23 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by johnwartjr
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

Another stupid prob that has me stumped. Picked up a nice re import Wh20. PF will not click into service mode...Looking at the side brackets they both have springs, the little metal posts are correct on the cab. What is happening is when I pull pf to lock its hitting the back support brackets on pf before it can engage locks on the brackets. Kind of puzzled because there is no adjustment...Have heard wh20 used an earlier version of the slide brackets and a friend had had similar issue. Anyone else have problems with wh20? Or if you could take a pic of the bracket position just as you lift pf it will tell me the brackets are angled correct to start.

Thanks!
Mike

#2 6 years ago

Yeah, I had the same problem with mine. I was confused what was wrong with them myself until I compaired them to my BSD and found that they were slightly different in design. Basically the newer games changed design by making the lower part slightly wider which prevented the arms from being bent easily which is what is likely the issue with yours. When I get home from work I can get you a picture for you to look at and confirm. I actually welded a bead on each of mine to give them the same witdth as the newer design.

#3 6 years ago

Had a similar issue with my uncle's fishtales.

Here is what I found: Check the bolts that support the post that the sliders lock onto. Both of his were VERY loose, and the slop was enough to cause the issue. Tightened emo up, and the issue went away.

#4 6 years ago

i have this exact problem the point to get the hinges to lock is high enough you are kinda lifting the playfield and pulling at the perfect angle. think ill try putting on another old set of rails i have laying around I'll post back if they fit.

#5 6 years ago

thanks for feedback...THese brackets are confusing. Mine look fine but its def hitting the back supports first...another 1/2 inch and it would prob engage the side rails...

#6 6 years ago

Ok so I forgot to take a look at it yesterday but I took a picture of what I did to fix the bad design which is basically the same thing my BSD and newer games have too. What happens is where the hinge lock ( part where the spring connects to that pivots) contacts the under playfield rails is to narrow on the early design and if it gets slight bent which it does because of the weight, then the spring will force it all the way to the playfield rather than to the edge of the rail. So I cut a small piece of metal and extended the lower section out enough so the hinge can't go past the rail. This is exactly what the newer rails have done to them, if you have any game like that you can look and see the differences if you look at the end at the back of the PF. Here's a pic that kinda shows where I'm talking about, let me know if you have any more questions.

Matt

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#7 6 years ago

Thank you. Even with pic it's confusing any chance I could see pic of side rails before you pull forward. Wondering what angle they should be at to make sure spring is pulling it correct

So looks like solution is for me to buy new set? Not sure what else I can do

Thanks again. Hopefully this helps other wh20 owners as well

#8 6 years ago

I can try and get you a pic of that, but the thing you need to check is that the part that pivots with the spring attached isn't being pulled all the way to the backside of the PF/rails. If it's like mine was is slightly bent and goes all the way back but it should stop on the top of the rail slides. That's why they made it wider at the bottom part to prevent it from being pulled to far back.

#9 6 years ago

Will a new set from one of the vendors work on wh20? If anyone has a spare set send me a message

Thanks. Mike

#10 6 years ago

Yeah the newer style are the same with the slight difference of being wider at the bottom to prevent the issue I was referring to. Have you tried to tweak (bend) the pivot back outwards. It might not stay in position long but if that's the issue you'll know it.

#11 6 years ago

can you circle on the pic where you are talking about? Not sure where the bend area is you are referring too. Thanks again. I have a Demo Man and a JM I can look at

#12 6 years ago

Ok the part that pivots that the spring hooks onto (Pic1). It needs to rest on the upper part of the PF slides(pic2&3) if it doesn't then it will go all the way to the PF. Then when you slide the PF forward before you raise it, it prevents it from going above the front guide nut like seen in pic 5 which then won't allow the PF to be raised. pic 4 shows the newer style on my BSD and you can see how it's a bit wider there than your wh2o. My wh2o I welded tabs on to it making it like the newer ones.
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#13 6 years ago

Great pics....This will def help

#14 6 years ago

Thanks for help. Found issue. Now I need to fix it. My pivot arms do not go above the front pin and instead go below it this is def wrong as it needs to go above to help it pivot and lock. I'll post pic. Mine have springs do I have no idea why pivot arms are angled down instead of parallel to pf

#15 6 years ago

Ok if they are angled to far down and going under the front pin it's because they are being pulled back to far, which means that they are not stopping at the top part of the slide where they mount to the playfield. The pivot arm is slightly bent outwards which is having it rest on the lower part of the slide the part that the screws mount through the PF to. That 1/2 inch difference is the issue.

#16 6 years ago

Pic of pivot arm when pf raised image.jpg

#17 6 years ago

We'll I put the newer style rails on my wh20 they fit kinda. Actually the bolt holes are correct spacing at the top and bottom, the screw holes in between are offset a slight amount so it will require drilling, but there is plenty of space around the rails in white water so it can be done easily without taking the Playfield out. Included pics to show the differences.
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You can see even though my white water pivoting metal arms were not going past the strike plate there is still a big difference in the angle.

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Here's the offset

After the install the game pops into service position just like any other williams Bally should definitely worth the extremely minimal install time if you have a spare set laying around.

#18 6 years ago

Thanks venom. Pics explain it. Mine just too low to clear front pin. If anyone has a spare set of the newer style off a parts game or a set not using shoot me a pm with $ price

Thanks

#19 6 years ago

Venom, did you notice a big difference in the spring length of the two by chance? I also replaced the springs on mine which were longer than the originals but found they mounted differently on the newer rails. I'm guessing that extra length might allow it the pivot to go lower to the point it needs to be.

#20 6 years ago

I know this is driving Mike crazy, I tried to help him, and we even compared his to my JM, but to me they looked the same. The info you guys have provided will make me pay closer attention the next time I have a problem with one of the rails.

#21 6 years ago

It's amazing if you take the time and remove brackets problem was obvious. End had bent so it was angling down instead of making an L. A few taps with mallet and back to specs. Works perfect. Pic of bracket when I removed from game
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#22 6 years ago

Glad to see you got it finally.

#23 6 years ago

Those should be replaced. It'll bend again.

The newer ones have the rounded corners instead of 90 degree corners.

In extreme cases, the playfield can warp around them!

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