(Topic ID: 98512)

Tech: TZ new board and says clock broken with crazy behavior also 6 flashers out

By Jarbyjibbo

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

Hello folks,

Just finishing up a TZ resto and am having two problems that I am looking for insight on.

I just installed a new Ingo clock board and it is acting very funny. On start up it turns very fast in only forward and then tells me that the “clock is broken”. I went into the clock test menu and it doesn’t matter what section I am in on the clock test menu: “The clock is stopped”, “Forward fast”, “Forward Slow”, “Reverse Fast”, “Reverse Slow”, (any of them) the clock is actually moving very fast in the forward position and won’t stop unless I exit the test menu. In the test, it's registering all the optos correctly the hands are passing through as far as I can tell (moves very fast) and showing the correct time. In the solenoid test, "Clock reverse" doesn't do anything but all other solenoids operate normally

I also have a flasher problem:

Flashers not working: (inside ramp, upper right flipper, gumball hi, mid & lo, upper right ramp).

They are all tied into J107-6 but so are "bumpers", "Power payoff", "mini playfield", and "upper left ramp" and they are working fine so I don't think it's that leg. According to the manual the other leg for these flashers is spread across three other connectors, J124-5, J4- 1 through 5 (which has to be wrong because 1 and 3 are empty), and J3-5 (again, has to be wrong because it's empty) so I am skeptical about it being tied to all three (although 2 are on the 8 driver board)

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jesse

#2 9 years ago

For the flashers. Test for voltage on the power wire. Or even continuity from one of the non working flashers to j107. Its possible the previous owner moved some of the power wires around. But more likely is a wire fell off the daisy chain leading a bunch of your flashers no longer part of the circuit. I'd suspect the power side since the ground side is controlled by multiple transistors.

For the clock, the new clock board provides lights and optos. There are two optos in front for the big hand and two in back for the little hand. Make sure they are all working. If they are then the part on the clock motor power board that reverses the current might be dead. Unfortunately, that is beyond the "off the top of my head knowledge while driving home".

#3 9 years ago

Jesse,

Ingo's clock boards are top notch when working correctly..... That said, the board I received was a nightmare. I spent hours trying to figure out the problem I had. Turns out, the board I got was never completely soldered and 1 pin was totally missed.

To his credit, he suggested what the problem may have been and I was able to find it and solder it myself, problem solved.

Somehow, my package didn't include the rainbow led's I ordered either. Took several emails but Ingo sent replacements and included 3 other sets for free.

Before you start pulling your hair out like I did, check all the connection/solder on the board and make sure its all good. It was the last place I thought to look.

#4 9 years ago

Check your clock motor control board.

There was a thread here pretty recently where the guy's clock would only go in reverse. Turned out it was one of those copper coils or something on the clock motor control board that's underneath the playfield. You may want to do a search here and find it. I'm thinking your problems are too similar to dismiss coincidences.

Nevermind. Found the thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-clock-wont-stop

#5 9 years ago

Thanks for the redirect to the other thread Miguel, it was very insightful. I am starting with the clock before I move onto the flashers....

My motor control board looks fine and I re-flowed everything on it to no avail. I took my Ingo board out and it is still doing it, so I am ruling out the new clock board. I am seriously leaning towards the A-16100 as my flashers that also aren't working are all but one driven off of the aux board. The two symptoms both tying to one board hopefully aren't merely a coincidence.

I of course no longer own my IJ, STTNG, or RS that I could just swap the board out and test. Anyone have any ideas as to what goes out on these aux boards or maybe what I have malfunctioning could point to the possible culprit. If I could replace a few dollars in parts on the board and keep it original, that would definitely be preferred to swapping it out with a new RD board.

Thanks again,

Jesse

#6 9 years ago

Is the red stripe on your ribbon cable, between the CPU and Aux8 board, connected to pin one on both sides?

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#7 9 years ago

It is, I have plugged and unplugged it so many times, I couldn't guarantee it was every time though.

I tested all the TP102's on the aux board and all showed between .4 and .6, same with all the 2N4403 pre-drivers. I also did a continuity check on all the resistors and diodes and none appeared to be open.

When I go into clock test mode and the clock just spins fast in the forward position no matter what test mode it's on, grounding the tab on the Q10 transistor stops the clock. Not sure what that means but I pulled that test from the other thread where it would only run backwards.

Jesse

#8 9 years ago

Turns out it was the AUX board because I tried a RD replacement board in it and everything works great. Any ideas what would be bad on the board to knock out the upper right flipper, gumball hi, mid & lo, upper right ramp flasher and make the clock go all wonky?

Ideally, I'd like to fix it and get it back in the pin.

Thanks,

Jesse

#9 9 years ago

I'm not near the schematics now, but the bus interface buffer chip(s) would be my first stop.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#10 9 years ago

the 8-driver's buffer chip is a 74ALS576 ... pull it (cleanly!), install a socket, then install a new one.

IMPORTANT NOTE : this is an ALS chip ... it is not a HCT chip ... so it's much more sensitive.

Don't ever unplug/plug with the power on ... and never reverse the ribbon cable.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

I'm not near the schematics now, but the bus interface buffer chip(s) would be my first stop.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

Quoted from _litz:

the 8-driver's buffer chip is a 74ALS576 ... pull it (cleanly!), install a socket, then install a new one.
IMPORTANT NOTE : this is an ALS chip ... it is not a HCT chip ... so it's much more sensitive.
Don't ever unplug/plug with the power on ... and never reverse the ribbon cable.

Thanks guys, I will order a socket and replace the chip. It probably got fried by reversing the ribbon cable accidentally. I will follow up on the resolution once I have swapped it out.

Jesse

4 months later
#12 9 years ago

Switching out the 8 driver board solved this problem for me too. I will eventually try to replace the buffer chip on the old board and get back with results as well. Thanks for the above thread and help everyone. Even tho it was for someone else it solved the problem for me as well. Lol

2 years later
#13 7 years ago

Any follow up here? I am having an issue with the clock not going in reverse or slow in test mode. New motor board failed to help. Maybe I should swap out the 8 driver pub and see if that corrects the issue?

#14 7 years ago
Quoted from alveolus:

Maybe I should swap out the 8 driver pub and see if that corrects the issue?

Yes, you can try the one out of STTNG. It is the same board.

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