Yes. It is the latest. Thanks for checking.

I am running the latest software and my magnets are energized less than 4 seconds.
It could be as simple as a code update, try and get the new roms.

I replaced the sensor boards and upgraded to the pinbits eddy bards and the magnet is still weaker on the left by 25%.

What ! Really! You powered the right from the left feed and it blew the same fuse? That seems very unlikely if you don't mind me saying! I do not mean swap the magnets, swap the +ve feed, read the post carefully. And if you really did this then the fuse blowing is due to one of the other items on the same circuit not the magnet.
Changing the eddy sensor board is very unlikely to fix it, this is part of the switch matrix and nothing to do with power. The coil is switched -ve so the only other possible answer would be a short between the switched -ve and the +50v down stream of the coil maybe in the loom from the power board . It does happen, rarely, but could explain that with a short in the wiring loom, but this doesn't explain the same fuse blowing if you swapped the +ve feed as you say you did.

double post

If you are serious about fixing this, please hook up a meter with auto hold feature to the magnet and let us know what the voltage and current flow is at the time the fuse blows. The temperature would also help.

This would help diagnose if a short or over-volt condition exists.

Also please rig up a circuit breaker to a blown fuse, this will save a lot of fuses.
3 amp 250 volt mini breaker installed across the fuse will work well.

You can also check voltage and current across the fuse holder at the time it blows or trips.

So basically you are saying that the game is working properly, as its impossible to activate the magnet over and over in rapid succession.
Like I said earlier, if you hammer the magnet it blows the fuse as it should.

Maybe now we understand why hocus pocus is disabled in multi-ball....

Yup.

I've been reading through your post. I just hit my left magnet 5 times in a row then my right magnet 5 times, still good.
running 1.4hb. don't think that will make any difference.

which fuse is it. maybe the fuse on mine is over amped

nope both f904 and f105 are both 3amp fuses. kinda wish they had them labeled somewhere where like on the solenoid chart. I had to look through the schematic manual to find them

Yes, more or less for a 20 year old game.
If it doesnt blow in a game you are good to go.

I don't know about that. that problem would drive me nuts until I fixed it. I would isolate all the other equipment on that circuit would need a pin extractor. also run the magnet and check how many amps the magnet is drawing.

to bad your not closer, I enjoy problems like these

I dont think its a huge circuit failure, maybe some leakage over time, but not a huge failure.

I bought my game NIB and if I ever energized the magnets over and over it has always blown the fuse.
i really think its a current "in rush" problem that develops enough heat to fail the fuse.

We want the huge in rush of current to trigger the magnets immediately, but we dont want the heat at the fuse associated with it.
A type of current limiter might be a good modification but the magnets are weak enough already, especially the left one.

A similar problem exists in larger sound reinforcement systems where larger subwoofers blow fuses continuously if the wall current is slightly high or if the sound is mixed or gated incorrectly.

Again the magnets in the game are very similar to driver magnets and are subject to blowing fuses.

I say, install a breaker instead of a fuse as they stand the heat better.
A circuit breaker is more suited for this particular use and has a longer duty cycle.

A lot of big drivers and subs have gone this route.

That's a nice ending. Glad you figured it out.

Marc