(Topic ID: 24602)

TECH: The Getaway controlled lamps not working

By pinballkim

11 years ago


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#1 11 years ago

OK, got my Getaway setup yesterday and my nephew played a couple games while I did a couple other things around the house. When I walked up to him after a couple of games I noticed none of the controlled lights were working. I did some digging and found there was a jumper ran from the a resistor to BR1, presumably to bypass a damaged trace, that had broken. I resolder the jumper but still no controlled lights. I get no 18v at the 18V TP, and the 50V test point reads 78V. Is it possible that BR1 went bad? I tried to test it but had trouble getting the probe on the leads since I hadn't pulled the board since there were a couple connector pins bypassed by directly soldering the wires to the board. Tested all fuses and they all tested good.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Kim

#2 11 years ago

I had a Getaway that did the same thing. It end up to be u20 on the cpu board, its common to go bad. I think the chip is a uln2803a. GOOD LUCK

#3 11 years ago
Quoted from wbarcume:

I had a Getaway that did the same thing. It end up to be u20 on the cpu board, its common to go bad. I think the chip is a uln2803a. GOOD LUCK

Nah...the lamps are switched on the driver board. The OP already noted lack of 18V lamp power. That's the problem. the ULN2803 on the MPU is part of the switch matrix circuit.

Check the obvious first, like the controlled lamp fuse at F114.
Next, check for about 18VDC at TP8.
Is LED6 lit?
Check AC power between J101 pins 4 and 7.
Lastly, yes, BR1 may have shot craps. Test per...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

78V is nominal for coil voltage. Don't worry about that. Yes, it says 50V, but that's simply not the case.

I would also suggest removing all the hacks from the board and wiring harness.

If you don't have the skills, experience, and tools to fix the board, send it to a pro. You'll save time, money, and hassle.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#4 11 years ago

Thanks for the reply Chris. Pretty sure F114 is good checked all the fuses right away so unless it blew after that it should be good, I will check it again. TP8 did not have 18V. Not sure about LED6, I'm at work right now. I will check the other things you mentioned when I get home. Should be able to fix the hacks. Lucky for me I work at electroncis manufacturer so I have the tools, and my skills are getting better. My trouble shooting skills really suck though. Again thanks for the help.

Kim

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from pinballkim:

Thanks for the reply Chris. Pretty sure F114 is good checked all the fuses right away so unless it blew after that it should be good, I will check it again. TP8 did not have 18V. Not sure about LED6, I'm at work right now. I will check the other things you mentioned when I get home. Should be able to fix the hacks. Lucky for me I work at electroncis manufacturer so I have the tools, and my skills are getting better. My trouble shooting skills really suck though. Again thanks for the help.
Kim

Make sure to remove the fuse and "buzz" it. Visual inspection isn't enough.
My pleasure.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#6 11 years ago

90% of the problems I had with my HS2 were bad connectors, some of which looked good.

#7 11 years ago

Reseated all connectors yesterday. Pulled F114, tested it and it was good. LED6 is not lit. No 18V at TP8. 13.3V on J101 between pins 4 and 7. Pretty sure it is BR1, again tough to test since I haven't removed the board due to the direct soldered connections. Will verify when I get the parts. Gonna replace any way so I can redo the jumpers. Again thanks for the help guys I will update when I get my parts and get my board repaired.

1 week later
#8 11 years ago

OK finally got some time tonight to replace the bridge rectifiers on my board and I was all jazzed to get the Getaway up and running. Unfortunately no dice, still no 18V. Any ideas where should I go from here?
Thanks,
Kim

#9 11 years ago

You are measuring DC voltage on the output, right? If you have good AC input into the bridge, assuming the bridge is good and installed correctly, the only thing I can think of to cause no DC output is a dead short. In that case, however, the fuse would blow.

Oh, and test for 18V as close as possible to the bridge. It's possible you have a broken trace.

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from herg:

It's possible you have a broken trace.

Bingo.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#11 11 years ago

Which pin should I be testing on the bridge? Don't think it is a broken trace, I jumppered most of the connections on both bridges because the barrells were toast.

#12 11 years ago

You guys were right. Didn't jump one of the traces. All good now. Thanks again guys, you're the best.

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