Just picked up a DE SW, it's always wanting to blow the lower back box fuse. Had a good friend suggest it was likely BR 1, but a test of that shows it appears to be ok. Any idea where to start checking?

Game plays just fine save for the fact that no inserts are lighting up.

Using this method:

So I think BR1 is ok. I am guessing (because I've never delved this deep into the backbox before) that the capacitor is ok using the method someone suggested in the Star Wars Club thread. So guessing I must have a wiring short somewhere? Any idea where to look other than just going to the under play field and looking for anything odd? Not the best at this kinda thing, so I really appreciate the help!

I will get those measurements tomorrow. It is BR1...on my machine it is not attached to the backbox. Perhaps it is mis-wired?

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Got it. Will check that out in a bit. Really appreciate the help!

Getting around 485 to 515 on BR1. BR2 has similar readings.

I disconnected CN4, CN6, and CN7 and powered up. Fuse still blows. And BR1 gets hot very quickly. Thoughts?

I think so, but will let you guys verify. Here's a shot of it, obviously it needs to be soldered (came to me with electrical tape covering the connections) and mounted, but it gets very hot right away so I think maybe I'll need to replace it anyway...stupid question (I know, I have a lot of them), what is the proper BR to purchase?

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Thanks, got a couple on order. Will report back when I get the new one in.

In the meantime, anything else that could be the culprit?

Should have the new BR this weekend. Will update once I get the new one in. Thx!

New bridge rectifier is in, fuse is still blowing. Best I can tell CN1 looks ok...not sure what I should look for out of the ordinary?

Readings are as follows:

Blue 1 -> Black = 526
Blue 2 -> Black = 497
Blue 1 -> Purple = 503
Blue 2 -> Purple =521

Again, really appreciate everyone's help here!

Just so I am following along, you are saying off of the BIG blue cap in the back, correct?

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Ok tried that, fuse still blew. I looked under the pf, didn't see anything really noticeably wrong. Any idea on next steps?

8-Amp 250-Volt slow blow, yes.

Thanks, appreciate the help. I disconnected CN6, CN7, and CN14 (didn't see 15 on either my SW or my R&B). Fuse still blows.

Cannot thank you guys enough for the assistance!

Purple off of big blue cap, readings are as follows:

Fuse in:

Blue 1 -> Black = 471
Blue 2 -> Black = 471
Blue 1 -> Purple = 473
Blue 2 -> Purple =474

Fuse out:

Blue 1 -> Black = 518
Blue 2 -> Black = 488
Blue 1 -> Purple = 511
Blue 2 -> Purple =493

Have to leave for a bit, be interested in what you guys may suggest next. Thanks!

If I remove CN4 from the power supply...the fuse...DOES NOT blow.

If I remove CN4 from the big board...the fuse...DOES NOT blow.

I think I must have pulled CN14 before when testing. Really sorry about that.

CN6, CN7 removed, CN4 on. Fuse blows.

Will do. May be time for it to pay a visit to my friend John Wart Jr.

Correct.

CN6 appears to give numbers in the same range (480-520) as listed above. CN7 gives no valid reading - shows 1?

I'm not getting any read from any of the disconnected wiring harnesses...perhaps I am doing something wrong here?

Will do and report back after I get home from church.

Question, if I were to pull the MPU board out of my R&B and do a temporary swap just to see if that solved the issue, would I just need to replace the ROM at C? Or are there other chips I would need to swap?

Ok, had a chance to get a few pics before I head out the door. CN4 on the MPU reads at 648, every pin...save for the fifth one from the top. That reads at 1. So maybe that's a clue?

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Always a safe bet.

Ok back on this one. I gave up on troubleshooting my MPU board and got a Rottendog to replace it. Unfortunately now things have gone to annoying (no insert lights) to way worse. The fuse still blew and now no DMD display. I powered down, saw I had put in CN22 upside down like a numbskull. Powered down, fixed it, powered back up. Now I get lights for a s cond, the sound call "May the force be with you"...and nothing. Machine goes dark. It does not complete booting. I've checked and re-checked all wiring and it appears correct. I even switched back to the original MPU board and get the exact same result. Kinda at my wits end. Grrrrr.

I have a good, very knowledgeable friend coming over to help figure out what's going on over the weekend. Any idea where we should start? What would cause the machine to basically stop it's boot cycle?

Fixed the issue with the machine not booting. Thinking it was the 6808 bad. Replaced that with the RD board, now machine boots fine. Still blows the fuse though. Hmmm...

Correct, the insert lamps are the only issue now. Everything else is working great.

SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!

So Sonic and I kept going over and over and over this thing, finally found what appeared to be a short on the blue/white wire on CN4. There was what appeared to be a strange connector on it, but the same connector was on my R&B so we ruled that out. However, when we disconnected that little connector, all of a sudden not only did the fuse not blow, but every single insert light came on! Whaaaaaaa?

We powered down the machine and Sonic says, "You know, I read somewhere about a coin door mech being an issue for someone." We open it up and there was a little board attached to the inside of the coin door itself...but not attached to the rather strange looking coin mech (it was a reimport, designed to accept Francs). It was, however, attached to the inside of the coin door with metal bracket.

And what was attached to that little board? You guessed it - a blue and white cable. Did a continuity test and sure enough, it was to that cable that we had disconnected from the back.

Looking at that small board, someone had attached it with a rather giant wood screw to the bracket. Examining it more closely, the bottom of that board was hitting the metal bracket...and yes...shorting out the blue and white wire.

I guess you could say we were screwed!

But in the end, we solved it. Well, more Sonic solved it. Machine now works 100%, save for four flashers on the left side of the play field - orange with black/gray wiring...anyone know if there is a connector that maybe got disconnected? Would be awesome if I could get someone to take a look at theirs. It's the flashers in the pop bumper area.

I cannot thank everyone enough for their help answering my rudimentary questions. I learned a LOT from this experience, and I thank you all for your assistance. In the end, it's almost comical that all the things we tried, replacing rectifiers, boards, ROMs, etc...and it wound up being a WOOD SCREW.

WOW!

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