(Topic ID: 69626)

TECH: Space Shuttle crazy switch matrix issues

By silver_spinner

10 years ago



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#1 10 years ago

had this game for a few years, finally getting around to it, bought it non working.
just installed new power supply and new pinled displays.
any burnt connectors and pins were replaced.

press start, game throws random switches. tilt, ball trough switches, (so both kickers kick over and over), targets, "jackpot" collect switch, out lane switches, etc. 2 of the upper lane, etc.
they just score at random. it also adds credits and adds more players to play at random.
if i put it in switch test, rows 7 and 8 work fine. any of the switches in the other rows act goofy. example. if i press a single switch it will throw up a certain switch number, but if i press it again, it will be a diferent number, press again and another different number.
the only switches that behave properly are in rows 7 and 8 as i mention. so if i press a target that is in row 8 for example, if i press it 10 times in a row, the same exact correct switch number will come up on the display.

also, if i pull either connector (row or column for switches) from the cpu, it will not act up.
of course i cant play it ...lol.
if i press start and it acts all silly, if i quickly disconnect one of those connectors, it stops doing the random switch triggers...and sits properly in game mode.
thoughts?

#2 10 years ago

Did you do any work on the row or column connectors?
Did you replace or rewire any switches or switch diodes?

Use the procedure at the bottom of the following article to determine if the problem is on the board or playfield. Pulling the connectors doesn't confirm it is not the CPU.

http://www.pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

#3 10 years ago

*did not replace any row or column connectors. all pins reflowed on board thow.
I replaced connector and pins and 8 resistors in the lamp area thow.

no switches or switch diodes on playfield have been touched. i inspected them all and the diodes orientation and wires to switches looks good thow. no diodes backwards..

ill look at ur link ans post results..
thx

#4 10 years ago

ok, i just did the JUMPER switch test with connectors removed at :
1J8 & 1J10

results below:
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 1= "8"
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 2= "7"
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 3= " 6,5,4,3,2,1," (IT GOES THROUGH ALL OF THOSE)
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 4= NOT USED
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 5= " 6,5,4,3,2,1," (IT GOES THROUGH ALL OF THOSE)
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 6= " 6,5,4,3,2,1," (IT GOES THROUGH ALL OF THOSE)
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 7= " 6,5,4,3,2,1," (IT GOES THROUGH ALL OF THOSE)
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 8= " 6,5,4,3,2,1," (IT GOES THROUGH ALL OF THOSE)
1J8 PIN1 TO 1J10 PIN 9= " 6,5,4,3,2,1," (IT GOES THROUGH ALL OF THOSE)

1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 1= "8"
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 2= "16"
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 3= "24"
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 4= "32"
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 5= "40"
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 6= NOT USED
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 7= "48"
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 8= NO RESULT
1J10 PIN1 TO 1J8 PIN 9= NO RESULT

#5 10 years ago

You have something wrong in your switch test results, can't have 1J8 (Strobe) Pin 1 to 1J10 (Return) Pin 2 giving both "7" and "16" as the results. I suspect you mean that you have 1J10 Pin 1 jumpers to 1J8 Pin 1 = "8", then move jumper to 1J8 Pin 2 = ""16", then move jumper to 1J8 Pin 3 = "24" and so on.

Basically you are first checking that all the returns (0-7) are functioning by using a single strobe and connecting it to each of the 8 returns (0-7) one-at-a-time, then you are checking each strobe by connecting one return to each strobe line, again, one-at-a-time.

Based on that assumption, you have damaged gates on IC52 and IC51 (use the diode check for those: http://www.flippers.com/service.html#diode ). Note that the 6821 PIA U15 gates that are connected to IC 51 & 52 may be damaged, however this too can be checked with the Diode Test once IC 52 and IC 51 are removed. It could well be fine.

Your strobes all check out fine by the way.

Don't replace ICs unless you are certain they are damaged, it is possible to do more damage to the board as you are unlikely to have the desoldering skills or tools of professional board repair folks...clip the legs off at the IC, unsolder them and clean out the holes prior to inserting a double wipe or machined pin IC socket. Do not use cheap IC sockets, they will always cost you in the end (or sooner).

John :-#)#
www.flippers.com

#6 10 years ago

thx ill look into that. i have done plenty of ic board repair with my nice work station so it will be fine.
thx so much
ive not fooled with system 9, system 11 pins before...

i think i copied and pasted incorrect on my results, ill go back and edit. thx for letting me know..

#7 10 years ago

Sounds like you're on track--good advice from flippers_com. That circuit's pretty easy to troubleshoot with a logic probe if you ned to dig deeper. Post if you have more questions.

2 weeks later
#8 10 years ago

UPDATE: boy oh boy lots of issues.
both ic 51 & ic 52 partially worked.
replaced those with high sockets.
also , the ceramic filter cap next to ic51 was flaky..replaced that.

both diodes in conjunction with the memory were bad and draining batteries in a day or 2.
*replaced those.

i noticed someone had one of the micro switches from the trough, one terminal soldered so sloppy it was touching the metal bracket it was attached too.*
fixed all of that.

also, the 6808 was flaky so i replaced that as well.

So far So good..thx tons

#9 10 years ago

UPDATE 2; i may have spoke to soon.
this is just odd:
we can play 10 game or so flawless, no problems..then out of nowhere , it will add credits, start multiple games, tilt and fire the outhole kicker while we are in the midst of playing.

OR, even if its sitting in attract mode, it will be fine for a while (15- 20 minutes) then it will fire the outhole kicker, add credits, start games on its own with none even touching it.
what now?

1 week later
#10 10 years ago

update 3: FIXED!!
the last culprit was the sip sr16
a hairline crack was causing 4 bad readings on 4 of the 560 ohm inline resistor within the 10 pin sip pack.

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