I'm guessing it has the correct class?

They used to sell a mirror cut to fit for adjusting

You could use a mirror but best to put it on something so the glass doors not get scratched

If you were in the DC area, i know a guy sitting on a pile of these CRTs

That said, your four options:

1) LCD bracket & CGA converter (links below):
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/p2k_lcd.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-CGA-TO-VGA-Converter-CGA-EGA-YUA-to-VGA-PCB-one-VGA-Output-game/32296774456.html

2) if you're willing to take the risk try this: (risk being that its actually the monitor going bad, in which case this wont do you much good most find this very helpful for dim display)
http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

3) you could try and find a TV repair shop who can freshen up the monitor.

4) pay the $250 plus shipping to get a direct replacement.

Sounds like either the tube needs rejuvenating or there may be an issue with the B+ high voltage power supply. Will need some diagnosing by a technician at minimum.

Likely its a ducksan monitor and it needs a new flyback( which are made of unobtainium), best bet is to convert to lcd. Rob Anthony of lock when lit has the correct converter and LCD bracket. I've read the off the shelf VGA converters don't work without a custom cable.

LOL, but man those adapter are not cheap! $130? Ouch

How is this version different from one i can pick up on amazon? ($40)

http://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Video-Converter-Board-Output/dp/B005G8KSP8/ref=sr_1_8

Or this identical ultra cheap version from ali-express? ($20)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-CGA-TO-VGA-Converter-CGA-EGA-YUA-to-VGA-PCB-one-VGA-Output-game/32296774456.html

You might can try to "recap" the capacitors also. If you want to try to repair the monitor check out the boards at klov.com. That is mainly an arcade game forum with lots of monitor help.

Yes a simple $10 cap kit could fix it as well. Bob Roberts has just about every kit you would need on his site.

I think the board itself is the same but the VGA output needs to have some of thei wires flipped around

I wouldn't think the lamps would affect the monitor's output. Monitors usually run on their own isolated 120v AC power supply and have their own circuitry on the chassis board to supply all the power needed. Which types of lamps did you replace, just controlled lamps? Try disconnecting them from the driver board in the bottom of the cabinet and see if the picture changes.

Also, it's possible you have some dry solder joints on the flyback transformer. I've seen this before and it will drop the B+ voltage, thus make the guns in the tube weaker.

I had to reflow the connector pins on the main center light board on mine. Also replaced almost all the lane switches. They seem to work in test but were intermittent during play. Seems to be a common issue with RFM.

Mine already had an LCD when I bought. It's super bright and clear which is awesome. Also reduces heat in the head which is good for the PC. Some people harp on the lack of total blackness level but I don't notice it when playing unless I focus on it. It's also easy to adjust. Plenty bright so just turn the brightness down and play with contrast.

It's normal for PB2K to detect the lamp errors on LEDs. The LEDs dont consuming enough amp for PB2K sensors to detect. System thinks it's a bulb burnt out
Your switch errors is another issue?

His web site shows he is closed.

My monitor came from Nieman Displays. They sell a complete P2K LCD upgrade kit. http://niemandisplays.com/nieman_video_displays_013.htm

You probably have some bad switches, you just don't realize it yet. I thought the same thing until I understood the rules better and noticed the switches weren't always working. It was driving me nuts cause they would show up as an error but worked when I tested them and the error would go away for a while. They're pretty easy to replace, just take a photo before you replace so you know where the diode goes. I think Marco has drop in replacements. I de soldered/ resoldered one leg at a time so I couldn't screw it up!

If you're comfortable removing the monitor chassis you can ship it to me and I'll replace all of the bad capacitors.

Ouch.

damn dude. so sorry!
that sucks!

Man that sucks!!! Hope you didn't get hurt. Joe

Yikes, glass shards and high voltage. Get yourself a nice LCD panel for that game, don't dwell on it man.

Just needs 5v supply. Either wire it as detailed in this link with the included wiring connectors:
http://www.jammaboards.com/faq/article/cga-to-vga-video-converter-gbs-8220-pcb-basic-setup-13.html
(i suggest getting one of these for cleaner installation, no cutting required)
ebay.com link: like

Or buy a power adapter and plug it into the service plug in the cabinet
http://www.amazon.com/2000mA-Regulated-Power-Supply-1-35mm/dp/B005CVNH1Q/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

I have a non working Ducksan monitor with no burn that I am planning to sell if you want to try again with getting a crt working. I didn't want to mess with it, so I through an LCD in there.

If you decide to go LCD, the $30 video converters are easy. You just need a VGA cable and an inverter IC (7804, I think). It only takes a few minutes to hack the cable together.

Anyone seen this before?
http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/monitors/49-3223-00

Its got built-in CGA functionality. Suzo-happ screwed up on shipping, i was quoted $8 to ship. For $250 youve got basically a plug and play setup.

Can I ask the 800 lb gorilla in the room? How did you break the tube adjusting a pot? I've been working on my arcade VGA monitors for a few years and am not understanding how this is possible. The adjustments are on the neck board or chassis.

I would assume the neck of the CRT broke when turning the pots on the neck board. It does twist the neck board a bit and can break a tube if the plastic thing-a-ma-bob on the end of the neck has become broken and brittle...

I went through my fair share of monitor issues with my RFM. Just to confirm with the OP, the monitor literately blew up? Glass flying, smoke, etc....

Did it make a high pitched wine while you were adjusting the pots?

Bloody Hell, thought i had issues with mine but on hindsight was super lucky. The flyback transformer had crapped out on mine but i was "lotto lucky" to track down a NOS chassis board to suit (got a Wells Gardner in my machine). Sounds like an LCD conversion is the best bet for you now. To be honest i was going to do that myself but i was advised to keep it CRT as long as i could keep it going.

Lol no, that's not possible unless you take a hammer to it. He just cracked the CRT neck and the tube lost vacuum. There is no way to fix it without replacing the picture tube.

Mancave, if I had one I would do another CRT in a heartbeat. I really like the picture quality on those monitors vs. LCD displays. But you really have to know how to repair just about any type of failure with them. They are not exactly as reliable as modern LCDs.

At the onset of "No picture" with my machine i assumed it may have had bad caps (i'd only had the machine a few weeks) and when i discovered the flyback transformer had gone AWOL i figured LCD was the only way to go. I agree though, CRT monitors have a better picture but can be less reliable than an LCD. One other thing is that a CRT monitor needs a chassis board to match, it's not just a matter of chucking any old chassis board in there.

Well, that may be a saving grace actually. The neck board is designed to be removable. Look at the end of the tube, do you still see the pins for the electron gun assembly?

image.jpg

If the glass of the neck is still intact and it's broken the pins that the board attaches to it may be possible to repair. I'm not 100% sure on that though.

By looking at your video it appears that you did NOT break the CRT neck. I think what you did was slightly wiggle the neck board enough to break the glue seal that was installed to prevent the board from separating from the socket from vibration. The glue blob will look like this (ignore the circled connector). Carefully press the neck board back onto the tube socket and turn on the power. The monitor should come on. As for the lamp board thing, I dunno. The only explanation I could think of is maybe that was causing one of the RGB color channels to go low for some reason. In that case it would've happened with an LCD as well.

image.jpg

After watching the video again, that definitely does look like a crack/chip in the glass. Glue typically wouldn't be applied that close to the actual neck pins. Did you hear a hissing sound when this happened from air entering the tube?

image.jpg

Have you used one of these in a Pin2K? It requires a special cable (that you can make) to invert one or more of the signals, you cannot plug a VGA cable directly from the converter board to the LCD and have it work. see other quote below.