(Topic ID: 143523)

Tech question on switch diodes

By EEE

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by schudel5
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

I have a quick question about switch diodes on on whirlwind. For a few years, I have noticed that occasionally the left 10 point rebound switch (possibly a different one from time to time) just below the cellar exit, will trigger the out hole solenoid. Sometimes it also registered the drop target when the extra ball is lit.

This is very infrequent and I decided not to dig into it until now. What I am now seeing in addition is that the locked balls are being kicked out in the middle of a game, presumably because the uppermost one, which is a fail safe for all three balls being locked, is acting up.

Is there a good way to test switch diodes with a dmm, or could it be a different issue?

Thanks

#2 8 years ago

You can test a switch diode "in circuit" the same way you test a loose diode.
Meter on diode check.
Game power OFF
black and red leads on opposite ends.
One way the reading will be "open" or nil, the other way will be about .5 to .7
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#3 8 years ago

Bad switch diodes are only one potential cause of phantom switch activation. Diode testing for both microswitch diodes and leaf switch diodes can be found below as well. Read the following headings:

Phantom Switch Closures: a Shorted Switch.
Bad Switch Diode.
Fail-Safe Diode Test.
Testing a Microswitch's Diode, without removal.
Testing a Blade/Leaf Switch's Diode.
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm

#4 8 years ago

I'd first go into the switch test and start playing around with the different switches you think are having issues. The display should indicate what switches are being activated. If, for instance, you press on the lock switch several times and briefly it indicates it was a drop target, then write both those switches down.

Look at the switch matrix to determine if they are on the same row or column. Once you can see a pattern of which switches are causing problems, look at each switch on that row or column you suspect. Check for a good mechanical connection with the diodes and the switch lugs as well as the wiring to the switches. Make sure a switch lug isn't touching something metal. Also, if one of the switches happens to be an opto, a bad or shorted opto can cause issues too.

If the switch can be isolated by disconnecting it try that and see if the problem goes away. Yes a diode can be tested with a DMM set to the diode setting. You should get between .4 and .6VDC with the leads one way and infinite with the leads the other. Test a few to compare and see if one is way out of spec from any you may suspect may be bad.

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