(Topic ID: 57644)

Tech: POTC Cannot Start a Game and/or game freezing

By tbmi

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by yzfguy
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tbmi.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1 10 years ago

I've noticed a few things with our POTC lately:

1) Occasionally during a game, everything will go dead except the GI (including the display). if you turn the machine off and back on, it usually goes back to normal.

2) I've had it where it ocassionally will just keep awarding PARLAY letters (opto problem?).

3) Sometimes when you push "start" it starts 2 players. I have not seen this one myself, but my son has.

4) We just had it where after the match sequence, the display froze plus no after game music.

Any idea if these things are all tied to the same problem? And what the problem could be?

Thanks.

#3 10 years ago

I reseated the ribbon cables. I played one game that went well until after the match - when it froze up again. Now when I turn the game on, I get the GI lights and nothing else and cannot start a game.

#4 10 years ago

I edited the title of the post since since the main issue seems to be that on power up, only the GI lights come on - no display, the ship does not reset and you cannot start a game. Any help is greatly appreciated.

#6 10 years ago

The LEDs all seem to be working, although now the game is starting up again. Is it possible that it is being caused by the power at the wall? I know that in the summer when everyone is running their air conditioners, it can cause some voltage drops in the power.

#8 10 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Out of curiosity, have you noticed this behavior when the sails are down on the ship?

Hmm...I didn't really notice if the sails were down, but will keep an eye on it. They were down when the last time the game "froze" and would not start.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

If your sails are down, with the game off, push them back up and try booting.
I dug into the boat and found a frayed wire that was causing the issue. My guess is that somehow shorting itself out back up the line to cause the sporadic issues you are seeing.A little bit of heat shrink tubing and the problem went away.

Thanks Ralphwiggum, I will look at that tonight when I get home.

Quoted from Borygard:

Powering up and not fully booting is a common issue to Stern SAM games. Once every dozen or so power ons. A reboot usually gets a normall power up. Stern is well aware of the issue. Yours sounds like it's happening more than that though.
I could certainly see poor power at the wall causing issues. What is power at the wall? Does it fluctuate? Using any extension cords or power strips?
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Thanks Rob. Last night I was getting around 119V at the wall. I was using a power strip, but ended up plugging the machine directly into the wall with the same result. I was able to plug it in to another outlet in a different room, again same results. After turning the game on several times over about 3 hours, it finally booted all of the way up. The kids were in bed last night and this morning so I was not able to play it.

#12 10 years ago

Just an update - I was able to run home and check things out. The wires from the ship all seem to be good. I measured the voltage at the wall again and it was 112V - but seemed to be steady. Last night it seemed to be "jumping" a bit more. I did play 3 games and did not have any issues.

#15 10 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Do you have a UPS laying around? If so, try running it through that. The ups can stabilize power pretty well so the input power can be eliminated. The 112v seems low.
What other games do you have? Would be helpful to show your collection.

Quoted from phishrace:

112 volts is definitely low. If the voltage is regularly low, the game can be jumpered for low voltage. Schematics section of the manual shows how to do it.
If the power swings between 119 and 112, a UPS with power conditioning capabilities would be a good idea. Batteries likely wouldn't last long in a blackout, but the power conditioning capability may just fix your booting problems when the power is on.

Thanks guys. I thought 112V was pretty low, but will continue to check the voltage at the wall. The POTC is my collection at the moment - it is an "only child" I like the idea of the UPS, but the jumper idea may be the way to go if it mostly stays around 112V.

#17 10 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

A Kill-a-Watt may be a good investment. Will monitor the power while you sleep and give you a 24 hour report.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-Monitor-P4400/202196386#

That looks a whole lot easier (and safer) than constantly checking it with a multimeter. I was able to get several games on it last night without issues - I even took the GC away from my son It wasn't as hot last night, so I'm guessing our power is the culprit and the game itself is fine.

#19 10 years ago
Quoted from tbmi:

That looks a whole lot easier (and safer) than constantly checking it with a multimeter. I was able to get several games on it last night without issues - I even took the GC away from my son It wasn't as hot last night, so I'm guessing our power is the culprit and the game itself is fine.

Well...after a couple of days of no issues, I am once again unable to start a game again. The power at the wall is a constant 120V at the moment, so I'm thinking that the wall voltage is not the problem. I reseated the both ribbon connectors and pushed on all of the other connectors and chips, and still nothing.

Just to recap, when the power switch is turned on, the only thing that comes on is the GI (no controlled lamps, dmd, the ship's sails do not reset). Any ideas of what I should check next?

#21 10 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

So are your sails down currently? If so-

The sails were actually up this time. After leaving the game on for a few minutes, the game did come to life again (at a time when I wasn't pushing any connectors or anything). What I did notice, when the game was not working properly, LED L18 on the power driver board was flashing. When it was working properly, the LED was steady. I'm not sure if that helps with the issue or not.

Man, I do love this game, but it is being a real PITA.

#22 10 years ago

I may just end up unloading this machine for a loss and be done with it and the hobby (as this is my only machine). I have not had much luck with my machines as of late and this issue seems to be one that no one has a clue about. Any idea of what a POTC in this condition is worth?

#24 10 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Don't get discouraged. What is your lcation? I would guess if you are near a pinsider, help isn't out of reach. Once you figure it out, the victory high is almost as fun as playing

I'm in the west Michigan area, but I've already have spoken with several different experts that do not have any idea what is going on. The other is issue is it is very intermittent - the places around here are $94/hour in shop (no in-home)...I can't imagine what it would end up costing me.

#27 10 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Tom, as I said in email, you could be looking at board issues. See if you can find someone local that would be willing to swap boards with their game to narrow it down to a CPU or driver board issue. Once that's determined a new/used board can be purchased if you don't want to continue the troubleshooting/repair route. Any SAM game can be used to swap with.
The SAM driver board fuse clips are notorious crap. Push on each at the top of the driver board when working or not to see if conditions change.
What is the 5V reading at the CPU test point? Does it fluctuate when not working?
I know problems like this are discouraging, but it's the nature of the beast. Don't get too down about it, you guys have loved the game, and you will again.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

The game was working again, but then the display froze mid-game. I did measure the +5V (at the test point of the power driver board) and it was around 3.5. After a couple of minutes, the game rebooted, but it was still only measuring 3.9V.

#29 10 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Well then there's your problem. If you're measuring the 5V test point and not the 3.3V test point, 3.5 and 3.9 is way too low. I'm surprised the board boots at all. Next is to test the 5V on the power driver board. If it's the same as at the CPU, you can adjust the 5V up to an acceptable level. If it's 5V at the driver board and 3.5V at the CPU, you'll need to find where you're loosing it.
To adjust the 5V, there's a small blue potentiometer on the bottom right of the large 5V regulator heat sink. With your meter measuring the 5V test point, turn the pot with a small screwdriver until your meter reads 5V.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Rob,

Both boards are currently showing 3.6V. I turned the small blue pot, but unfortunately it was already turned up all the way. You can turn it down, but not up. The game is currently not booting.

#31 10 years ago
Quoted from Borygard:

Pack up the driver board and send it off to me Tom. I'll get you 100%
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

Rob,

I will do so. I know you're busy so no hurry - I'm just hoping we finally narrowed it down. Thanks for all of your help, Rob, it's much appreciated.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
6,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Mount Pleasant, WI
$ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 130.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Dijohn
 
$ 18.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 17.00
Cabinet - Decals
Nordic Pinball Supply
 
$ 54.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 218.00
€ 18.00
Playfield - Decals
Pin-Decals
 
6,500
Machine - For Sale
Pittsburgh, PA
€ 20.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pin-Decals
 
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
From: $ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
 
$ 99.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 29.25
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
$ 24.75
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Yucaipa, CA
From: $ 5.99
Playfield - Plastics
The Pinball Scientist
 
$ 49.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
$ 110.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
6,250 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Bethlehem, PA
$ 28.75
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tbmi.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-potc-oddities?tu=tbmi and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.