(Topic ID: 117868)

Tech: No feature lights on Strikes and Spares(Bally)

By shirkle

9 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by shirkle
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#1 9 years ago

I'm noticing two issues with a Strikes and Spares I fired up for the first time.
- No feature lights at all. I'm not using LEDs. GI works.

- The left slingshot is not scoring or energizing. All other coils/switches register and fire.

Any help would be appreciated.

#3 9 years ago

Fuse F1 tests fine. I believe that's the one for the lights, but could be wrong.

The slingshot coil fired in test mode. Later I'll check to see if the switches register in test mode. I also noticed the 500 point rollover inlane next to that slingshot isn't scoring.

#5 9 years ago

I will have to check the TP1 tomorrow.

I can confirm that the three switches do NOT register in test mode.

#7 9 years ago

Is the schematic indicating that those switches (left return and the left slingshot) share a common ground (85)?

image.jpgimage.jpg
1 week later
#11 9 years ago

Update:
Decided to replace the Rectifier Board. This solved the feature light issue as everyone suggested.

Still have the switch issue. Switches #3, 5, and 37 don't register in test. These are the "A" rollover at the top of the playfield, the left flipper feeder lane, and the left slingshot.

New problem: The only playfield solenoids that fire now are the flippers. Non playfield solenoids- coin door, chimes, etc. all work fine. The non working ones are the outhole kicker, saucer, the 3 pop bumpers, and both slingshots. Fuse?

#13 9 years ago

Ahh!! I forgot about the fuse on the playfield! I was testing all them on that new rectifier board.
You were correct, that fuse was bad.

The switch contacts are clean. One of those switches is even brand new. Something else going on there.

#14 9 years ago

Switch #3 ("A" rollover) is fixed. Solder had cracked on the switch and the wire wasn't making good contact.
The other two are still a mystery.

1 week later
#15 9 years ago

Finally fixed the two non-working switches. I noticed that they share a common wire and that was likely the problem. I simply followed that wire back through its daisy chain and found two other switches along the way. One of them had broken loose. It was only a little tricky because the switch it had broken loose from was still working because the "incoming" wire was still soldered well, but the "outgoing" wire had broke free, so that switch wasn't even suspect until tracing that wire back to it.

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