(Topic ID: 117868)

Tech: No feature lights on Strikes and Spares(Bally)


By shirkle

4 years ago



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  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by shirkle
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#1 4 years ago

I'm noticing two issues with a Strikes and Spares I fired up for the first time.
- No feature lights at all. I'm not using LEDs. GI works.

- The left slingshot is not scoring or energizing. All other coils/switches register and fire.

Any help would be appreciated.

#2 4 years ago

Did you check your fuses? Connectors to the lamp board?

Go into switch test mode and see if the slingshot switches register.

Go into coil test mode and see if the slingshot coil fires.

#3 4 years ago

Fuse F1 tests fine. I believe that's the one for the lights, but could be wrong.

The slingshot coil fired in test mode. Later I'll check to see if the switches register in test mode. I also noticed the 500 point rollover inlane next to that slingshot isn't scoring.

#5 4 years ago

I will have to check the TP1 tomorrow.

I can confirm that the three switches do NOT register in test mode.

#6 4 years ago

The lights out is one of the bridges. The switches not working..if actual switches ok check the wiring connector and pins at the mpu. Those go bad quite often on ballys and sterns.

#7 4 years ago

Is the schematic indicating that those switches (left return and the left slingshot) share a common ground (85)?

image.jpg
#8 4 years ago

No...... As far as I know, the wire# only refers to the wire for that particular board.
One board being A5, the other being A3.
The "returns' are switched outputs from the above boards.
* I know its confusing; normally you don't have the same wire# repeated on a schematic.
** If you have multiple 'Feature lights' Out......... you are most likely missing the 'Hot' side not the 'switched ' Return.
*** If you are missing one coil ( Left slingshot), you are probably just missing the 'Return' signal
wire #85 from A3J5-15....... @ Q10,U3 output circuit.
@ You can check the coil by just tapping the return terminal on the coil to the Ground braid in the bottom of the cabinet. There s/b a small black wire on the Return lug of the coil.
Just my opinion........... I've been wrong before!

#9 4 years ago

85 refers to the COLOR of that particulare wire. In this case, 8=black, and 5= white. ie, a black wire with a white stripe. The A3J5-15 tells you where the wire goes. A3=Sol Driver board, J5=jack no5, 15=pin 15.
You can find the wire color code on the backbox/ interconnecting diagram, in a small box, at the bottom.

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

85 refers to the COLOR of that particulare wire. In this case, 8=black, and 5= white. ie, a black wire with a white stripe. The A3J5-15 tells you where the wire goes. A3=Sol Driver board, J5=jack no5, 15=pin 15.
You can find the wire color code on the backbox/ interconnecting diagram, in a small box, at the bottom.

OK..... Thank you.

1 week later
#11 4 years ago

Update:
Decided to replace the Rectifier Board. This solved the feature light issue as everyone suggested.

Still have the switch issue. Switches #3, 5, and 37 don't register in test. These are the "A" rollover at the top of the playfield, the left flipper feeder lane, and the left slingshot.

New problem: The only playfield solenoids that fire now are the flippers. Non playfield solenoids- coin door, chimes, etc. all work fine. The non working ones are the outhole kicker, saucer, the 3 pop bumpers, and both slingshots. Fuse?

#12 4 years ago

Check your under playfield fuse for the non-working coils. While you have the playfield up, clean and adjust the contacts for your inoperable switches.

#13 4 years ago

Ahh!! I forgot about the fuse on the playfield! I was testing all them on that new rectifier board.
You were correct, that fuse was bad.

The switch contacts are clean. One of those switches is even brand new. Something else going on there.

#14 4 years ago

Switch #3 ("A" rollover) is fixed. Solder had cracked on the switch and the wire wasn't making good contact.
The other two are still a mystery.

1 week later
#15 4 years ago

Finally fixed the two non-working switches. I noticed that they share a common wire and that was likely the problem. I simply followed that wire back through its daisy chain and found two other switches along the way. One of them had broken loose. It was only a little tricky because the switch it had broken loose from was still working because the "incoming" wire was still soldered well, but the "outgoing" wire had broke free, so that switch wasn't even suspect until tracing that wire back to it.

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