(Topic ID: 45360)

TECH--MM Translucent Backboard Mod: Where Do I Wire The 2 New 906 Flashers To?


By NM

6 years ago



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  • 13 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by NM
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#1 6 years ago

Going to order the translucent backboard mod from Germany--I read the installation instructions on the site and see I'm basically on my own for flasher lighting.

My plan is to screw two new 906 sockets to the two middle lightning bolts and wire the old 906 flasher wires to them.

But I'd like to add two new 906 sockets/flashers on the outer left and right sides/lightning bolts...so how/where do I hook up these two new 906s?

TIA.

#3 6 years ago

An RGP search found the attached pics of someone's earlier work on this project.

Note the two middle 906s are the originals (OEM red with white-striped wiring) and the two outer 906s are the additions (red with white-dotted wiring; both new sockets linked to each other by Daisy Chain).

Then note that OP chose to run the two new sockets off to a separate (and unknown) power source somewhere else in the game. (Tried reaching the OP, no answer.)

So instead, could I not simply Daisy Chain each new 906 socket to one original and use 906 LEDs to reduce the draw (Cointaker 5-LED 906s)?

So in summary: wire the left outer to the left middle and wire the right outer to the right middle?

TIA.

Pincredible_-_RGP2.jpg Pincredible_-_RGP.jpg

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from kmoore88:

made my own transparent board and tied the two extra 906's into the flashers behind the castle.

So no flasher effect behind your Lightning Bolts?

Curious what you have going on instead: LED strip; Cold cathode tube?

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from pincredible:

That is my backboard in the photos, two of the four 906 bulbs take the place of the flashers under the moat. Initially had a green cold cathode under the moat, but need to find a better source for 12V.
I like the LED strip offered by pinballdecals.com, but the price is too high.

Thanks for chiming-in and offer your assistance Pincredible (great to hear from the photo's OP)!

Curious why you weren't happy with the green cold cathode tube under the moat? (Thinking a constant source of 12V power would simply be to connect to the 12V test point on the Power Driver Board/and to subsequently ground to one of the Phillips Driver Board mounting screws?)

Or do you simply prefer the look of an LED strip? (If so, should be a fairly easy hook-up at this juncture via the above.)

Lastly, observed the stock lamps under the moat are in fact 89 blinkers--not 906 flashers--so also curious how you pulled off that substitution on your backboard.

Many thanks.

NM

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from jimjim66:

Never tried it, but maybe this would work as a cheaper alternative- under 20 bucks.

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=307

Features:

Incredibly Bright - Each set of 6 "LINX" includes 18 intensely high output, wide-angle, "cool white" LEDs. More "LINX" can be added for even more brightness!
Low Voltage - 12v operation means that the marquee light may be connected directly to your PC power supply for simple "auto-on" operation .
Long Life - LEDs are rated at up to 100,000 hours of "on" time. That's up to 10 years longer than conventional lighting!
Low Operating Costs - Reduce your carbon footprint by 1/1500 and stave off the end of the world by several milliseconds for every fluorescent you replace!*
Small and Lightweight - Can be mounted in the smallest of marquee areas, or stretched out up to 36" long and arranged for optimal light coverage. Extra "LINX" can be purchased to provide just he right amount of brightness and coverage for any given area. Can be mounted just about anywhere (screws included for wood mounting) and on virtually any surface. Optimal distance from marquee is 6" to 14".
No standoffs are necessary. Each "LINX" has it's own housing with integrated mounting tabs, and the LED's are fully protected from moisture and dust.

Examples showing old version without and with marquee in place. Current version allows for better distribution to eliminate dark areas at edges, and includes two more LEDs at the same price!

Wow, now that's interesting JimJim66!

Will study up on this and may in fact go this route.

Thanks as well.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from mr-zed:

I my MM restore project, I installed the translucent backboard with 906 flashers aswell.
I installed the 4 sockets on top of the backboard, pointing down behind the backboard, as I wanted the light to be strongest at the top - like lightning I guess.
The 2 middle flashers are the flashers that normally installs in the backboard. The outer flashers are connected to the left lower flasher and the moat flasher!

Yet another great viable alternative Mr-Zed!

Curious if anyone has some input on the idea I floated earlier:

1. Re-position the original two 906 flashers in the center.

2. Then Daisy chain one new socket off to the left and right outer sides (substituting 5-LED 906 flashers from Cointaker to reduce the draw)...or would it still be better to do as Mr-Zed did and tap one into the lower left 906 on the PF and the other into the moat?

Thanks again.

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