(Topic ID: 23819)

TECH: JP row 5 lights out question.

By Matt_Rasmussen

11 years ago



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#1 11 years ago

First time troubleshooting something like this so I appreciate the help. I've measured voltage at the bulb locations in that row and all of them read in the mV. When I measure across CN6 and CN7 connector pins for the return and drive for that row, I get 7 volts. I've measured across other pins on those two connectors when that Row is active and I get about the same voltage.

Also, none of the lights work when testing them in their columns either.

Is this telling me that I have a shorted/open conductor somewhere before the first light in that row? And would that be LB5 according to the manual?

Thanks again.

#2 11 years ago

I had a row out and it ended up being that the lights were wired wrong apprently from the factory. I hadn't even noticed until I put in LEDs. Another string went out and it was a broken diode. At least those are a couple things to take a look at first.

#3 11 years ago

A broken diode on a single light shouldn't effect and entire row though should it, being wired in parallel?

I'm pretty sure that they worked 'before', I specifically remember seeing the egg light, which is in that same row. Guess I'll just follow the row wiring and see what happens, I was hoping to be more scientific about it.

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from Matt_Rasmussen:

A broken diode on a single light shouldn't effect and entire row though should it, being wired in parallel?

I'm not sure. I've found a few broken diodes on my JP so it's where I usually start. If it isn't that or a bad solder joint then you will definitely get to go all sciency on it

#5 11 years ago

Well, I was trying to give some measurements that might lead me in the right direction, to me, it seems the drive and return right off the CPU board is fine...that would be a nice confirmation.

#6 11 years ago

If you have five lights out in a row, it's probably a broken wire. My buddy had the exact same problem a while back. Took him forever to go through the wiring harness and find it. One of his wires got caught in the bumper mechanism under the playfield. When the bumper activated during gameplay, it ultimately pulled on the wire until it broke. Result was he lost about ten white LED lights all in a row. I'm not saying this is your problem, just a suggestion.

#7 11 years ago

Be sure to check the color of the wires going to each non-working light in the row. Probably one solid color, and the other multi-colored. Once you find those two uniquely colored wires, begin following them until you find the break. Required tools will include a good flashlight and lots of patience. Focus on areas where wires may come into contact w/ moving objects. I've been there, and it can be frustrating. This doesn't sound like a bad diode. I would assume that if CN6 and CN7 were bad (and it sounds like they are not), you would have more than just those five lights out in that row.

#8 11 years ago

Yes, it's row 5 in the light matrix, I know what color it is. I've used a continuity tester from the CN6 connector for row 5's return all the way to the last light in that string, which happens to be the T-Rex Map light on the Shoot T-Rex indicator (T-Rex Map light is also on the playfield) and measures continuity all the way.

Looking like the transistor for that row, I'll try to test that with a diode tester, but it's tough to get to.

EDIT:
Q76
Red Lead on Base
Emitter = .569
Collector = .501

Black Lead on Base
Emitter = .934
Collector = OL

Does that look like the transistor is bad, you shouldn't pass current with the black lead on the base on either the emitter or collector right? This is all in circuit testing, so does that make a difference?

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