I would start by looking for a pinched wire, shorted socket. I don't have the manual, but look for the easy stuff first. Find out where those lights are on the pf, and follow the wires, making sure none is pinched to a ground, and also look at the diodes, to make sure none is pushed against a metal braket. Hope this helps.

Reseat the ribbon cable from the CPU to the driver board on both sides.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

With the power off, firmly press on the ASIC, the large square chip on the CPU with your thumb. Too many columns/rows affected to be a driver board component issue I think. Sounds more like a communication issue.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

Wire up a bulb to use as a test rig to test each row and column at the board. Rule out or confirm a board issue befor tearing thins apart.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

Pat, I'd like to buy an "e", is there a "g"?

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

Testing the Lamp Rows.
If a TIP102 transistor that drives a lamp row is suspected as bad, test it:
1. Remove the backglass and fold down the display to gain access to the Driver
board.
2. Turn the game on.
3. After the game boots, press the "Begin Test" button in the front door. Go to
the Test menu's "All Lamp Test" test.
4. Unplug the row connectors at J133 (or J124 on WPC-95) and column
connector at J137 (or J121 on WPC-95). These are on the lower right portion
of the Driver board.
5. Connect an alligator test lead to column connector pin 1 of J137 (or J124 on
WPC-95). Pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
6. Connect the other end of this test lead to one lead of a 555 light socket. One
can be temporarily borrowed from a playfield lamp (make sure it's a working
lamp first!).
7. Connect another test lead to the second lead of the 555 light socket.
8. On the other end of the test lead, clip on a 1N4004 diode, with the nonbanded
end away from the alligator lead.
9. Touch the non-banded end of the diode to row connector J133 (or J124 on
WPC-95) pin 1. Again, pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
10. The lamp should flash.
11. Move the diode/alligator lead on row connector J133 (or J124 on WPC-95) to
the next pin. Again, the lamp should flash.
12. Repeat the previous step, until the last pin of row connector J133 (or J124 on
WPC-95) is reached.
If a lamp row tested doesn't give a flashing test lamp, that row is bad (or the test
diode is reversed!). No light or a non-flashing, bright lamp are signs that the
respective TIP102 row transistor is bad. Test the transistor as described in Testing
Transistors and Coils.

Testing the Lamp Columns.
If a TIP107 transistor that drives a lamp column is suspected as bad, test it:
1. Remove the backglass and fold down the display, to gain access to the Driver
board.
2. Turn the game on.
3. After the game boots, press the "Begin Test" button in the front door. Go to
the Test menu's "All Lamp Test" test.
4. Unplug the row connectors at J133 (or J124 on WPC-95) and column
connector at J137 (or J121 on WPC-95). These are on the lower right portion
of the Driver board.
5. Connect an alligator test lead to row connector pin 1 of J133 (or J121 on
WPC-95). Pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
6. Connect the other end of this test lead to one lead of a 555 light socket. One
can be temporarily borrowed from a playfield lamp (make sure the lamp works
first!).
7. Connect another test lead to the second lead of the 555 light socket.
8. On the other end of the test lead, clip on a 1N4004 diode, with the banded
end away from the alligator lead.
9. Touch the banded end of the diode to column connector J137 (or J121 on
WPC-95) pin 1. Again, pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
10. The lamp should flash.
11. Move the diode/alligator lead on column connector J137 (or J121 on WPC-95)
to the next pin. Again, the lamp should flash.
12. Repeat the previous step, until the last pin of column connector J137 (or J121
on WPC-95) is reached.
If a lamp column tested doesn't give a flashing test lamp, that column is bad (or the
test diode is reversed!). No light or a non-flashing, bright lamp are signs that the
respective column TIP107 transistor is bad. Test the transistor as described in
Testing Transistors and Coils

J133 and J134 are the same, as are J137 and 138. They must be removed for this test. And, with them removed a diode is not needed with SealClubber's instructions above.

One last thing, since you're getting multiple lamps lighting for one, put the game in single lamp test instead of all lamp test. All lamp test won't do you any good for your problem. In single lamp test you should only see the test lamp light on one column and one row for each lamp, any more than that and you have a board issue.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

A shorted lamp diode can cause this. Or a lamp socket where the diode is bent and touching the prong of the socket. It can be a board issue, but I've seen this time and time again as a diode issue on the lamp matrix. Look at all your insert bulbs that use 44 bulbs first. Those are the most likely to get bumped or bent. The machine has leds?

Yes, you've confirmed a board issue. Any coils not working? Switches all working correctly? GI test work as expected. Could be a data line issue if yes to any other of these issues.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

You can swap you ij and Addams family power boards and see if the problem moves also. But it sounds like you've already narrowed it to the board.

No diode is needed for that test if you're removing the connectors listed.

Although certainly possible, it seems very strange that three or four lamp matrix drivers would be bad. I think sending out the board for repair would be your best course of action.

I may know a decent board repair guy I can recommend...

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

Did you ever fix this? What was the outcome?

Thank you old thread! I had a row and column of lights out on my White Water. I was reading other threads and looking at much more complex issues (i.e. board issues), and it ended up being the ribbon cable connection. Simple fix! Love it!

I had the same issue....multiple inserts turning on in single lamp test....and it was the ribbon between mpu and cpu.

Thank you for posting this little side note - saved me a lot of time troubleshooting!

Out of the blue yesterday my BOP had a couple of solenoids not working and some playfield lights that wouldn't work. I did an individual lamp test and found a whole row and a whole column of lights were out (no real discernible pattern on the playfield, but after looking and the lamp matrix diagram, I could see the problem was in one whole row and one whole column of lights).

I read about lamp matrix troubleshooting, but then noticed your comment at the end of this thread about the ribbon cable. I should have thought of that first because I had sound issues about a year ago and it turned to be the ribbon cable - easy fix. So I reseated and jiggled the ribbon cable from the CPU to the driver board and bingo, that was it.