Harley Davidson
Stern, 1999I just bought a non working Sega Harley Davidson and I need some help. This has a 520-5300 CPU board. The board had a little acid damage that I cleaned up. I've been through all the boards checking fuses, reflowing or replacing connectors. I replaced u209 and u213 because I had them on hand and they were socketed. Right now all my lights come on and stay on except my blanking led, it flashes. Where should I be looking for my problem? Any help would be amazing.
Found this in another thread. All the voltages check out except the reset line at pin 37 of u209. I get a high/low pulse and it should be high.
"What are the voltages on CN2? Pin 1 should be 5V, pin 2 gnd, pin 3 -12V, pins 4 and 5 NC and pin 6 +12V. If those are good, look at the voltages on pin 3 of VR1 and VR2. VR1 pin 3 should be -5V and VR2 pin 3 should be +5V. Next check for +5V at pin 28 of U212 and 3.3V at test point 1.
If that's all good then I would check to see if the reset circuit is stuck low.
VR1 and VR2 are just above CN2. TP1 is the 3.3V and is about half way up the board from CN2. By your picture LED2 is lit so your 3.3V is probably good. I would double check the F1 fuse just to the left of LED2 just to be safe.
Check the reset line at pin 37 of U209. It should be high. I'm guessing it's going to be low indicating the watchdog is holding it down. While watchdog circuits do fail it's more common they are simply doing their job and holding the CPU in reset because of a problem. If the reset is high as it should be then I would start tracing out the address (A0-A15) and data (D0-D7) lines."
On pinwiki they have a pinout chart for acid damaged parts. I started going through it but I'm not sure it's for my board. It doesn't specify what board the pinout goes to. Does anyone know if it applies to the 520-5300 or the previous whitestar board?
Just an update in the hopes someone can help. I kept reading that Brdg21 can test good but cause a problem so I replaced it. It didn't fix my problem but now all my leds are on and L204 (blanking) is flashing. I think this is progress. Could really use some help here.
Quoted from pintechev:That looks pretty bad. I would send it out for professional repair.
I will if I have to but I'd like to figure it out. I'm stationed in Panama at the moment and shipping back to the states through the military address is very slow. Plus there's a party at the Marine house this weekend. I'd like to have the machine there and working. I found this machine here in Panama and got it for a steal. Already shopped the playfield, just need to work out this last bug.
You've used the term acid several times but AA batteries don't leak acid. Did you clean using methods appropriate for alkaline damage?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage
You might try a PM to Quench
cfh barakandl
GRUMPY
Borygard
johnwartjr or
wiredoug All of those are excellent with this type of problem.
I used a viniger bath, water and alcohol. It's been cleaned, sanded and tinned fairly well. I've done this several times before and had good luck.
I'd be happy if someone could help me narrow down my problem some. I've always had system 11 machines in the past. I'm new to whitestar.
If it was me, I would instantly suspect the RAM socket connections, I would start by verifying all lines to/from your RAM as this will likely show you where the problem is. You can then solder in jumper wires to make it work.
For the proper fix, you need to remove the RAM Socket, this will likely cause significant damage to many of its connection as it will not come out clean due to the widespread corrosion.
Once the socket is removed, and the area has been thoroughly cleaned, I would then drill out every hole with a ball mill in order to prep them for the insertion of copper eyelets; but prior to the eyelet installation I would repair the damaged traces with a trace repair kit and allow a portion of the new trace to press through the hole, this side of the trace would then be further secured by the eyelet. With this type of repair you should never have another problem in this area ... even if the next guy working on it doesn't know how to solder.
I think the chart is referring to another revision. As far as I can see on the schematics, pin 9 of u213 should connect with pin 4 of u210. It's the A13 line. This is from a Sopranos book that was lying around here, part number 520-5300-00. Rom CS is listed as pin 24 of u210, and connects to u213 at pin 19. Do you not have a copy of the schematics for this board? You can get them from Stern's site just by downloading the right manual....
Ok, I fixed my second Whitestar...if you ask me I got lucky again. So here a few tips, it may be bullshit but you never know. The first one had battery alkaline leak on the EPROM, but it was fully working, so I figure I replace the battery with an NVRAM...I plugged in the new chip and the game turned on and worked for a few minutes then shutdown. I turned it on again and it did the blinking lights thing. I could not figure out why...I just plugged in a chip, I didn't mess with anything. Well, my theory is when I gave the board a vinegar bath and dried it with a blowdryer, there must have been a trace of moisture in the chip's sockets. I found out by luck when I tried upgrading the ROM while the board was out and the chip would not take the update so I figured that may be the issue...long story short it was.
The second game was NASCAR when I was replacing the NVRAM socket U212 and again this game played a few minutes then shutdown, I turned it on and off and again it shutdown after a minute. I figured I bungled the socket replacement. I removed it again, I rang out the traces and put a new one in...this time it didn't come back on at all. I was going to send the board out for repairs but I decided to remove my RBION's board and use it to test my work. I moved the NASCAR's 4 chips U212 RAM, U210 CPU ROM, U213 LAT chip and U209 PIA chip over to the RBION's board, I then Plugged it into my working RBION and the board did not boot...so now I knew one of the chips must be bad. Now here's the kicker, the NVRAM chip which I worked on, the LAT chip and the CPU ROM were all ok, it was the damn PIA chip (that I didn't touch) somehow burned out when the game resetting.
So I know you've replaced U209 and U213....did you burn a new ROM? Also did you ring out the traces on the U212 on the back to see if they are all connecting to the next line?
Kvan99, I believe me problem is very similar to yours. I have not replaced the PIA or the rom. I just ordered both. It's difficult in a third world country. There is no where to find these parts and ordering takes 2 weeks min. Basically I have to diagnosis my problem, order parts and wait 2 weeks to see if I have any more problems. In the states I could have fixed this but it's proving difficult here. When I bought this HD I also bought a south park that needs a new cabinet so I stole the board out of it to put in the HD. From all the research I've done it looks like many problems will cause similar symptoms in a whitestar. PIA, rom, traces and ribbon cables seem to be the biggest culprits. Even when I called stern tech support they said these boards were difficult to fix. If my newest order of parts don't fix the board I'll wait till I get back stateside. It's up and running now and that's all I needed. Only 2 pins fit in my house so I put the rest at the bar in the embassy Marine house. They seem to be getting lots of play there but I need them working 100 % before I can move them in.
There is no PIA on Whitestar. U209 is the CPU.
Battery leakage is far more a problem than people think. If there's been leakage on the board, I would almost guarantee your issue will be related.
It takes a lot to properly clean battery leakage. A simple vinegar wash does almost nothing unless the leakage was very recent and penatrated nothing.
--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com
Ha..thanks Rob, I called it PIA because of my Data East repair brain damage days....thanks for the correction.
Quoted from kvan99:Ha..thanks Rob, I called it PIA because of my Data East repair brain damage days....thanks for the correction.
Yes, I meant PAL not pia.
PanaPinResto, can you please post a short video at startup? basic view of the play field back box.
requesting to see all the boards & under they play field, Mine was doing the same thing. On my 2nd gen Harley Davidson I had some start up issues with broken connections on solenoids under playfield, you'd be surprised how it kept the game from coming on no lights on the play field it would only lite up the "opt" on the Harley and through ball lane that's, plus leds on the boards, nothing else worked.
start digging through all the solder connections under the playfield, look for cold solder joints.
I will admit that's some serious alkaline damage near the rom that saves all the games and settings, Stern said they just made some more these White-star boards in late February early March
I added a any-pin NVRAM to my board been working great since.
I have similar issues with my Star Wars trilogy. Did you ever resolve the issues on the board? My banking signal is blinking and I only have gi lights, dmd flashes display version on power up and then goes blank. I’m not sure where to go!
Ok I pulled my cpu board from the machine and reseated the 3 chips closest to the battery holder and now it’s booting just fine. Rom, PAL and nvram. Someone has already removed the battery holder before I got this machine. I saw very little trace of alkaline damage on the back of the board my guess is I will be replacing the 3 chip seats in the near future due to corrosion I cannot see
I know this may sound strange but I have a sega harley and mine started booting up then display would go off and lights would blink off and on and make a clicking noise in relay in back box. I also noticed none of my flashers were working. I check all fuses in back box for continuity and found one that had none although it appeared fine. Swapped it out and everything went back to normal. Sounds strange one fuse would cause all that but I guess it’s possible. I stumbled on this thread trying to figure out what was wrong with mine so figured I’d share in case your issue could be the same by chance
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Peer
Cleveland, OH