Start with the Pinwiki: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Gottlieb.C2.AE_Score_Motor_will_Not_Stop_Running:_Frequent_Cause

You'll need to find out what circuits and switches send power to the score motor. Some simple items to check: Make sure the coin chute switches are not stuck in the closed position; check to see if all the score reels are fully resetting to the zero position during the reset process.

Do you have a schematic for the machine? Find the score motor icon on the schematic and work your way back through the circuit to see what switches send power to the score motor. You'll need to check these switches first to see if they are clean and adjusted properly.

Do all the score reels reset to zero?

It does something as soon as you plug it in? Sounds like maybe a coin switch is stuck.

Clean the Jones plugs and check that all are contacting.
Tug on all solenoid wires to see if any have popped off.

Sounds like you have an intermittent rather than consistent problem.

Power off the machine and manually set all the score reels to zero. Power on the machine and see if the score motor keeps running.

I don't have the schematic for this machine, so I'm looking at a Dancing Dolls schematic. They might, or might not, be similar. Here are all the relays that would send power to the score motor when the machine is powered on, and one or more of the switches are mis-adjusted:

B
O
W
G
Q
U
S
T
Score motor switch 1C

Not sure if the wire colors are the same on each machine, so you'll need to look at each relay to see if there are any mis-adjusted switches...

What I see in the video makes me think that the game is just trying to reset itself as it would at the start of a game. What made it want to reset might be a coin switch as jrpinball pointed out. But once the game starts the reset sequence it fires the ball release solenoid. I think that solenoid stays on until points are scored so that may be behaving correctly. The score motor wants to run until it sees that all of the score reels are at zero, so that too may be behaving correctly.

The score reel however is not advancing because its solenoid is not releasing. If you try to push in the score reel solenoid plunger with the power off you'll notice that all it does is reach forward and grab the next tooth on the score reel ratchet. It's not until you let go of the plunger that the spring pulls the ratchet to the next position. That explains why your score advances when you cut the power.

So the question is, why isn't your score reel solenoid releasing? During reset the score reels are reset by the score motor, specifically by switches on the score motor that get closed 5 times for each 120 degree turn of the score motor cams. These switches are typically in score motor position 1A or 4A. If you don't have a diagram to identify these switches for you, just look at the score motor cam that has lots of narrow teeth on it. It's usually the lower of the two cams. (see http://funwithpinball.com/small-boards#Score_Motor for closeup video of the various score motor switches.) Some of the switches that ride on the lower cam are trying to reset your score reels. It could be that one of those switches is closed all the time, sending power to the score reel solenoid constantly.

With the power off turn the score motor slowly by hand and watch the switches that ride on the lower cam. Verify that each one opens and closes as a cam tooth passes by. If you're lucky you'll find one that never opens. If you don't find it, look at the wiring for those switches. The solder tabs may be mangled causing one or more switches to be shorted.

/Mark

I think it's stuck on reset, and a playfield switch is stuck closed at the same time.

That's a lot of information. Some of those things may be problems and some may be related, but trying to untangle them all remotely makes it more complicated than it needs to be. I would recommend trying to isolate the individual problems so you can easily reproduce them. Isolate, simplify, and minimize the number of variables.

Also as a general rule, before you adjust switches to get them to operate properly, check that the screws holding the switch in place are tight. Otherwise the switch can wiggle into a different position and out of adjustment again. For extra credit you could go through all of the relays and steppers in the game and operate them all manually with the power off and visually verify that they all open and close as they should, the switch stacks are tight and the lugs aren't shorting. This often finds a problem or two before you even know it's there.

So you mentioned that a Hold relay switch was out of adjustment, and later mentioned that the Hold relay isn't firing. That's one problem to isolate and diagnose. The Hold relay may be fired by the Start relay. Until you get the schematic you could try to trace the wire from the Hold relay solenoid to the next switch to see if it is operating correctly. If you can't follow the wire color, you could use a meter with one probe clipped to the Hold relay solenoid lug. With the other probe touch all of the other relay switches in the bank looking for a switch with a resistance of less than an ohm or two.

As for the pop bumpers, experiment a little to see if they always stop scoring at the same time. Maybe start with just one pop bumper and understand how it behaves. What changes from the time that it does work to the time that it stops working? Are the pop bumper switches clean and operating properly?

I don't know how the game goes into game over mode, but I suspect that both of the ball trough switches need to be closed indicating that the 4th and 5th ball have drained. Is there a game over light in the backbox? If it's not working, fixing that first might help solve other problems later.

And if the game isn't starting be sure that there are credits on the game, and that the switches on the credit unit are operating correctly. There are one or two switches that close whenever there are any credits on the game. They open when the credit unit shows 0. Make sure those are working correctly.

Here's an image of my Miss Annabelle. If you need another angle I can get it, I moved it into the open.

Miss A (resized).JPG

Any luck with Hold relay? (see my last note for details.)

Once you get the schematic it will spell out which relays keep the motor running.

If you don't want to wait, have a good look inside while the score motor is running. If the score reels are all at zero and the score motor keeps turning, what relays are active? What happens if you try to manually release or disengage them? There may be a relay that starts the score motor that isn't releasing when it should.

There's probably a relay that controls the 10 point light and sends the scoring pulse to either the 1 point or the 10 point relay. It'll probably have a make/break switch where one side (the 1 point side) is working but the other side (the 10 point side) isn't because its dirty or never closes.

You can find this relay by doing whatever you need to do to light the "10 points when lit" light and listening for the click of the relay closing. Once you've found the relay tighten the screws that hold the switches in place, gently clean the switch contacts, and adjust the switch(es) only if necessary.

/Mark