(Topic ID: 40544)

Tech: Funhouse won't boot (fixed)

By jackd104

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by lukex
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

Machine was fine when last switched off. Now, when switched on, no lights, no DMD, nothing at all except speaker hiss. Some LEDs on power driver board are lit up, but no LEDs on CPU board light up. So I guess CPU board has no power but not sure why. I tried reseating power and ribbon cables, no help. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jack

#2 11 years ago

Everything hooked up?
Is the 5V LED on the driver board lit?
Data, data, data...we need clay to make bricks...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#3 11 years ago

Hey Chris. The LED labeled 5V on the driver board is NOT lit up. What does that indicate? There are two other LEDs labeled "led 2" and "led3" that are also not lit. All other LEDs on driver board are lit.

Thanks,
Jack

#4 11 years ago

Ok, so fuse F113 for the +5V logic was blown. I replaced it, turned on the machine, DMD indicated it began to boot and the 5V LED on the power driver board came on, as well as LEDs on CPU board, but after about 2 seconds the fuse blew again. What now?

#5 11 years ago

LED2&3 aren't always lit.
Time to check fuses.
Remove F113 on the driver board, upper RHS.
Buzz it with your DMM.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#6 11 years ago

One of the very rare times when BR2 may be the correct answer. Test BR2 for a short.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

#7 11 years ago

So I unplugged J114 (power to CPU board), J116, J117 and J118, and when I power up, the fuse still blows. So it seems pretty sure it's a board problem, probably BR2 like you say. I guess it's time to send the board for repairs since I don't tinker with board repairs.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

So I unplugged J114 (power to CPU board), J116, J117 and J118, and when I power up, the fuse still blows. So it seems pretty sure it's a board problem, probably BR2 like you say. I guess it's time to send the board for repairs since I don't tinker with board repairs.

Smart man!

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

#9 11 years ago

Indeed!

Quoted from jackd104:

So I unplugged J114 (power to CPU board), J116, J117 and J118, and when I power up, the fuse still blows. So it seems pretty sure it's a board problem, probably BR2 like you say. I guess it's time to send the board for repairs since I don't tinker with board repairs.

Very good troubleshooting! Now let's pull the board and test the bridge. Enquiring minds want to know...
Procedure:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#10 11 years ago

Thanks for the link. I've never tested a BR but ill give it a shot when I take the board out. I'll give a full report

#11 11 years ago

Anyone know the exact part I need to replace BR2? I'm seeing several BRs at GPE, but not sure which exactly. After getting quotes for board repairs, seems like something I can handle for a few bucks maybe.

http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=bridge+rectifier&sprice=&stype=&scat=

Thanks,
Jack

#12 11 years ago

Can you solder? Can you desolder? Can you use a DMM?

BR2 isn't tough to swap if you know what you're doing.. but if you don't, I wouldn't learn on a $300 PCB that hasn't been made for 10+ years.

Go to your local thrift shop, and find an antique radio or VCR or something that doesn't work. I say antique, as stuff made in recent years is mostly surface mount, and the bridge rectifier is through hole.

Practice until you can desolder a part, and remove it without damaging the board, and practice til you can solder the part back, and have it look like it did before you worked on it.

#13 11 years ago

Yes. No. Yes, sort of John you're probably right.

Ok Chris, I'm taking some measurements with my DMM as per the link you sent. I have my red lead in the OHM slot, black in the COM slot, range set to 20M. Here's what I'm getting on BR2 (referencing the steps in the image in your link):

1) meter reads 0.00
2) 9.23
3) 1.35
4) 15.6

I don't really seem to be getting the nominal ranges described at the link. Also if I lower the range I don't seem to get much for readings. Other BRs on the board test various values, from 7s to 16s, but no where else do I get the 0.00 reading. Does that indicate the problem with BR2?

Thanks for any additional insight.

Jack

#14 11 years ago
Quoted from johnwartjr:

Can you solder? Can you desolder? Can you use a DMM?
BR2 isn't tough to swap if you know what you're doing.. but if you don't, I wouldn't learn on a $300 PCB that hasn't been made for 10+ years.
Go to your local thrift shop, and find an antique radio or VCR or something that doesn't work. I say antique, as stuff made in recent years is mostly surface mount, and the bridge rectifier is through hole.
Practice until you can desolder a part, and remove it without damaging the board, and practice til you can solder the part back, and have it look like it did before you worked on it.

great tip! Now I have project for this weekend and I will save money in the long run on repairs!

thanks!

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Yes. No. Yes, sort of John you're probably right.
Ok Chris, I'm taking some measurements with my DMM as per the link you sent. I have my red lead in the OHM slot, black in the COM slot, range set to 20M. Here's what I'm getting on BR2 (referencing the steps in the image in your link):
1) meter reads 0.00
2) 9.23
3) 1.35
4) 15.6
I don't really seem to be getting the nominal ranges described at the link. Also if I lower the range I don't seem to get much for readings. Other BRs on the board test various values, from 7s to 16s, but no where else do I get the 0.00 reading. Does that indicate the problem with BR2?
Thanks for any additional insight.
Jack

Yes, BR2 is shorted.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
314-766-4587

#16 11 years ago

Ok John convinced me to let a pro handle this, sending the board along with another board that needs some fixin' in. My machines are from the early 90s and I've been having a lot of board issues in the last couple years. In fact, the only boards I haven't sent it for repairs are now the sound boards. Think it makes sense to send them in for preventative maintenance while I'm going through the pain of shipping and having my machines down? Or "if it ain't broke..." ?

1 month later
#17 11 years ago

Sent the board to Clive and he did a great job as always. It was a bum br2 plus he fixed several other things. Game is running like a top now. Thank you all again for helping me troubleshoot.

Jack

#18 11 years ago

Some great troubleshooting right there and a wise decision to send the board out. Peace of mind!

Enjoy your great game.

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