(Topic ID: 249035)

TECH: F-14 Solenoid/Flasher Issue - SOLVED

By mikemoorman

4 years ago


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Solenoid-Flasher Table.pdf (PDF preview)

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#9 4 years ago

This one is weird, paging GRUMPY bump!

#11 4 years ago

Maybe try to isolate solenoids to figure out what's blowing the fuse would be a start? I don't have my F14 Schematics here anymore or I'd be digging through them.

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

'The voltage output from the flipper power supply seemed a little high (75 vdc) but it is unregulated and not sure it is out of range.'
Should be OK since it is not under load.
Call me dense, but I am not sure I understand your (excellent) spreadsheet notes. "Flashes but also left in-lane #89 on solid" means? Is 02C flasher always on? On only when any of the other 'C' flashers are activated?
If it is 02C, and 02A works, then it is not that driver transistor Q25. It sounds like a short on the driver side of that flasher. Since those flashers have a 'warming' resistor, 330 ohms, it could be a short there. I am pretty sure those stupid warming resistors can be removed. Those boards with the resistors are a source of a lot of flasher problems on these pins.
'2.5A fuse above the flipper power supply blows'. My F14 is all apart being rebuilt, so I cannot easily look through that.
In the manual, there is a 2.5A SB on a Vio-Yel wire on page 59A. [Grin - I think that one also blew on mine when I first got it working 3 years ago.] That does go to the Ball Shooter Lane Feeder plus 6 other solenoids. Unfortunately, I do not remember what that strange symbol means on page 59A that looks like a box with four connections. I vaguely remember having to figure all that out.....
Will scratch head and look further.

Yeah, those symbols are for the snubber board relays and I've never understood that or seen that type of symbol used before. I don't believe the warming resistors can be removed unless you switch to LED Flashers and then they have to be removed.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from mikemoorman:

I have received the Logic Probe. I did some reading on TTL and think I understand truth tables and some basic gates (AND - NAND - OR - NOR - XOR - MUX).
Where is the best place to pick up GND and +5VDC to test U28? I assume the ground braid for black lead, is the +5VDC on the 8345 power supply ok for the red lead or does it need to be taken from the CPU itself?
I have a copy of the 74LS374 datasheet and understand the pin-outs.

Most of them aren't too picky about input voltage, mine is rated for 5-13V, so it shouldn't matter as long as it's a solid source.

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