(Topic ID: 256030)

Tech: Early 80's Bally Won't Boot Up

By PBaller22

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by FatPanda
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#1 4 years ago

Greetings! I have an early 80's Bally machine (Gold Ball) that won't boot up. When I flip on the power, the LED on the MPU board flickers and then blinks 5 times (not 6), so obviously something is going on. When I first turned it on, the displays came on with two zeros in each and it showed a number 9 where the credits display is located. The lights in the coin door were on, but that was it. There was also a hum coming from the coin door area. I turned it off and turned it back on to check the LED light again. It had the same number of flashes (flicker + 5), there was a click on the 5th flicker (like it was trying to do something but didn't) and this time the displays didn't come on (though there was a faint light in the corner of each). The self test button isn't working either. There are balls in both troughs, so I don't think that's the issue.

After doing some reading, I'm going to try to swap the fuses for new ones and then disconnect the ribbon cables on the MPU board one by one to see if it will boot up when something is unplugged. I'm not great at this type of troubleshooting, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

#2 4 years ago

Here's a start
https://www.oocities.org/timessquare/arcade/7800/flash.html

The following diagnostics are valid for Bally -17 and -35 MPU's, as well as Stern MPU-100/200 boards.
Upon power up, the on board LED should flicker briefly. Following this, the LED will flash, indicating completion of varying stages of the internal diagnostic program in the game ROM's. If the LED does not flash at all, check for proper checksums of the game ROM's, the ROM sockets, and the power supply voltages.

First Flash:
Signals the end of the ROM test.

Second Flash:
Test the NMOS RAM (U7). There will be a bit of a delay between the first and second flash, be patient. If no flash, replace U7.

Third Flash:
Tests the CMOS RAM (U8). If no flash, replace U8 - use caution the 5101 chip is NOT diode protected and is very static sensitive!

Fourth Flash:
Tests the first PIA chip (U10). If no flash, swap U11 for U10. Note that although you may get the fourth flash, U10 may still be defective.

Fifth Flash:
Tests the second PIA chip (U11). As above. If you have already swapped U10 and U11 and don't have the fifth flash, try a new 6821 in U11. If still no success, swap once more. Worst case-replace both PIA's.

Sixth Flash:
Tests the Display Interrupt Generator. This actually tests both U11 and U12. If U11 has been replaced, and no sixth flash, replace U12.

Seventh Flash:
Tests the "Zero Crossing Detector". This tests U10 and U14 as well as the presense of +43 volts from the rectifier board. If no seventh flash, check for +43 volts before changing anything else. Fuse F4 (+43 volt) is a common failure. Unless U10 has already been swapped for a new or known good 6821, change it before U14.

#3 4 years ago

Awesome. Thank you. Hopefully, my hunch is correct and that F4 fuse is the problem.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from PBaller22:

Awesome. Thank you. Hopefully, my hunch is correct and that F4 fuse is the problem.

Pull the fuse and test it with a DMM. If it is good, then I would check U10 and U11 as mentioned above.

#5 4 years ago

Just wanted to say thanks for the help. It was the fuse mentioned in the information you provided. Back up and running!

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from PBaller22:

Just wanted to say thanks for the help. It was the fuse mentioned in the information you provided. Back up and running!

Awesome. Glad you got it working again!

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