Have you re pinned the connectors between the Vidiot and the MPU? Swap the PIA for a known good one in the Vidiot.
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Have you re pinned the connectors between the Vidiot and the MPU? Swap the PIA for a known good one in the Vidiot.
Does the game pass communication test? I don’t have the schematic for the game in front of me. The Vidiot has a separate power supply that powers up from the unregulated 12v. It dose not derive power from the sdb. The sdb provides 5v to the MPU. Are you getting 5v at TP1 and 3 on SDB? Are you getting 5v at tp5 on MPU?
I personally don’t think it’s a 5v issue. Is the reg getting hot? I think you already said no.... my experience in resurrecting a few of these games from the totally dead.... connectors connectors connectors. Re pin the females. All of them on the MPU. J1 and j2 on the Vidiot. If the game still isn’t working after you do that and swap the PIA. I’d shit!
I just rebuild them. Take the old pin push it out and cut it off. Replace the pin slide new pin right back in the hole. I have had the old pins just fall apart or not have a tab on them at all. Unless the connector housing is corroded badly. I also usually just order the longest connectors possible for the size. An exacto knife cuts them to the perfect size every time
Quoted from jj44114:4.9v is fine all around.
This guy know wtf he is talking about...
Oh no, I rebuild the Molex connectors... The IDC ones are total junk. You need to get new Molex connectors...
As for the males.... did you not say MPU was a repro? It will not need new males. As for the Vidiot get a 10 power magnifying glass and a good light. Look at the pins for signs of stress on the mating surface. Look on the back of the board look for any cracks or loose pins coming thru the solder. I would also give the board a good visual inspection to see if there are any busted or loose traces or any nics in a trace that could cause a bad connection. I would not attempt to change the males unless I had a proper desoldering station even if they do need it. My guess is they are fine
Quoted from Power87:My friend's baby pack had a recent issue it might be a long shot but in the back of the game the rear door panel there is a push button switch that has to be in in order for the game to operate take a look at that button if yours has one make sure it goes all the way in when the panel is back on the game that was his problem and they fixed it immediately.
Like I said it might be a long shot
This is a good point. You can check this by opening the door and putting the switch in service mode by pulling it out. This will cause the game to stay on. Game would shut off and come back on and reboot if this was the case. Issue is that j2 and j3 on MPU are involved in communication with the Vidiot. Did you swap the PIA on the Vidiot with a known good one? I had a game randomly resetting. During game play it wouldn’t shut off it would randomly just jump track and go haywire. Turned out to be a bad PIA on the Vidiot. If you fix the connectors on the MPU and J2 and J3 and your issue remains my suspicion is it on the Vidiot somewhere. Check and see if the 5v supply on the Vidiot is getting hot. Could be a bad 5v reg on it
Quoted from Spock:The back door switch has been pulled out for as long as I can remember. Allowing me to always have access to configure the game etc.
The coin shape regulator that controls reset gets a little hot but it's still producing 5.11v?
As for the new connectors I notice the dark red ones are the best. Any of the new white ones are crap. I don't know if it's a brand thing or what. Plan on just buying a bunch of 28s and 25s and trim them.
Can you clarify a bit on which PIA. You mean the 40pin chips right? I have a bad habit of calling everything chips. Both are replaced with new ones and all the rom chips are new as well as all the others. Replaced them all.
I have had new chips not be so new.... it’s U7 on the Vidiot. Put the original back in. Or another from game that’s working correctly. As for the 5v regulator. It’s VR1 on the Vidiot power supply.
Quoted from Spock:These I like: [quoted image] I can change a connector pretty fast, crimp pins slide in and clip very well. But a 28 position is $6 each? The remaining (3) connectors that I need to swap will be done with my next order.
The white ones not so much, the crimp pins bind up and take a lot of wiggling to get them to slide in and often break a clip or wire in the process
[quoted image] but they are cheaper, less than $1
Ok, I will swap my fish N chips with the old ones for U7. And I think I was checking VR2 not VR1, I do have another set of old VR2/VR1 untested regulators I could swap. But, prob better to just order new ones if you think that may be my issue.
I like to cut them down. Just simple to not have to stock 30 different ones. As for the white ones are you using the Trifrucon pins. They bind up in the normal housing sometimes. ;(. If the output at the 5v tp is good and it’s not hot. I don’t think it’s the issue.
Quoted from Spock:For shits and giggles, I put the door switch back to normal. Meaning door closed and double locked so switch isn't in service mode. Game reset after 3 games as well. So, don't think its the switch unless the inner components of that switch is bad.
If I can get the game to consistently play 2 games before it resets. I will just restart the game every 2 games haha.
Lol. I tried that on the one I have that was doing something similar. Try to restart it before it locks up! Maybe no one will notice.... lmao.
Hopefully jj44114 is still following this thread. He is an expert on these games!
Quoted from Spock:I am using the Trifrucon pins and they certainly do bind up on the white ones. Makes the process pretty painful. From now on, only buying the redish brown ones. I have no idea if they have a name other than its color.
In terms of temperature of the regulator. I will use my temp gun next time to see how hot it is getting and let you know. I hope its overheating, so I can replace it and fix my reset issue lol
Look for the housings that say for Trifrucon.
Well from someone who has all but beat his brains out trying to chase the last grimlin from the machine. I hope it’s over heating as well! . Did you look the board over well with good light with magnification If possible. Check for any solder splashes or busted traces? Turn it on and wiggle all the connectors on the MPU Vidiot and sdb and see if it resets? At 6 bucks a housing I’m glad I save old ones. GPE was out of some of that stuff last I ordered too.
Quoted from Spock:About to buy a stupidly expensive $300 tested 100% working Vidiot. Should I pull the plunger?
No send jj44114 a pm. He probably has one My guess is he may take yours in trade. Will be way more cost effective.
Quoted from Spock:The one I found is his. I went ahead and bought it.
I hope it clears up your issues. Sorry the other things didn’t get it there. Good news is the Repin and other work you have done will probably prevent future issues with you game.
Quoted from Spock:Its all good, at least this way if I still have the reset issue with the new vidiot I can focus on the other areas that could cause reset issues. I will let you know when I get the new board in as well the other (3) connectors replaced.
I would change the connectors first. That way if the board works you know and have a good spare.
Quoted from Spock:Looks like the new Vidiot from (jj44114) was a success. Will know for sure after I get some more games in. But so far 30 games and 85 minutes of gameplay and counting. Looking good...
Very nice! Jj44114 is the man!
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