(Topic ID: 306059)

TECH and Parts WTD for Bally Speakeasy

By meSz

2 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by meSz
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Picked up a nice Speakeasy locally that I need some assistance with and also looking for few parts.

First off. . . anyone able to provide a picture of the Fly Away Target board as to the way the wires go? Mine has a slight hack and a wire off so want to ensure I get everything soldered back on correctly.
22CE2CBB-9303-42CE-836B-401EECE805B0 (resized).jpeg22CE2CBB-9303-42CE-836B-401EECE805B0 (resized).jpeg
On the topic of the Fly Away Targets, is there one can purchase the switches for the boards?
BC4EC12D-B775-4A61-9DA3-63F40123502D (resized).jpegBC4EC12D-B775-4A61-9DA3-63F40123502D (resized).jpeg
Lastly, for now, anyone have the below plastics they're willing to part with?
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#2 2 years ago

Im in the market for a speakeasy and curious on what you paid for it?

#3 2 years ago

Still looking

2 weeks later
#4 2 years ago

Bueller

#5 2 years ago

Here's what the board on mine looks like. It had also had a hack when I got it but I fixed it.

As for the plastics and switches, I have been unable to locate any.

IMG_20220105_135737223 (resized).jpgIMG_20220105_135737223 (resized).jpg
#6 2 years ago
Quoted from BigPapa:

Here's what the board on mine looks like. It had also had a hack when I got it but I fixed it.
As for the plastics and switches, I have been unable to locate any.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the post.

2 months later
#7 2 years ago

OK so revisiting this SE and have a few issues left but the one that is puzzling me is the left flipper. When I hit the flipper button the flipper does activate but it's sticking in the up position. If the pinball comes down and hits it goes goes back down so it's not as if the coil is staying engaged. I also have taken the glass off and when it gets stuck in the up position the slighted pressure releases it back to the home position. Again, the coil is not staying energized. So I took the coil stop off and the plunger made sure there's no burrs or anything that would hang the plunger up, even polished it!

I cleaned the switched made sure they're gapped properly. The wires secured on the lugs. What's next???

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

So I took the coil stop off and the plunger made sure there's no burrs or anything that would hang the plunger up, even polished it!
I cleaned the switched made sure they're gapped properly. The wires secured on the lugs. What's next???

When's the last time you did a flipper rebuild?

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Shogun00:

When's the last time you did a flipper rebuild?

That I don’t know as I obtained the machine this year. The parts (switch, coil stop, plunger etc.) look pretty good. Not saying that it can’t use a rebuild but I’ve seen a lot worse that worked.

1 week later
#10 2 years ago

So revisiting this machine and turn it on today and the F1 (20A) Fuse is now blowing. My schematic reading is lacking, to say the least, but if I am correct this goes to J2 plug? Any direction is appreciated. I can tell you once the game boots, that's when the fuse blows.

J2 (resized).PNGJ2 (resized).PNG
#11 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

So revisiting this machine and turn it on today and the F1 (20A) Fuse is now blowing. My schematic reading is lacking, to say the least, but if I am correct this goes to J2 plug?

Fuse F1 for the switched/controlled/feature lamps goes to the playfield (J1 connector) and the backbox (J3 connector).
Power on with each plug disconnected one at a time to see which sub-assembly has the short circuit in the switched lamp circuit. If the fuse blows with both J1 and J3 disconnected, then suspect the BR1 bridge rectifier.

PowerRectifier-54_Sw-Illum.jpgPowerRectifier-54_Sw-Illum.jpg

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Fuse F2 for the switched/controlled/feature lamps goes to the playfield (J1 connector) and the backbox (J3 connector).
Power on with each plug disconnected one at a time to see which sub-assembly has the short circuit in the switched lamp circuit. If the fuse blows with both J1 and J3 disconnected, then suspect the BR1 bridge rectifier.
[quoted image]

First of all, always appreciate the help! Secondly, so you're saying I was completely off on J2

Odd thing, I pulled the J1 and J2 as you advised. Turned the machine on and then plugged them both back in without the fuse blowing on either. So turned the machine off and back on and the fuse didn't blow so not sure what the issue was but it appears to be working. Will play the game later to confirm as I have one last issue (left flipper sticking as advised above).

#13 2 years ago

So just when I thought it was safe..............

In playing the game the F2 fuse blew again. All the insert lights on the pf as well as the BALLS TO PLAY lights are going out!

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from meSz:

I pulled the J1 and J2 as you advised. Turned the machine on and then plugged them both back in without the fuse blowing on either.

I hope you plugged the connectors back in when the machine was off?

Look at the loose thick braid wire in the backbox that gets screwed to the bottom of the head. Sometimes people leave so much slack on that braid wire that it accidentally touches the feature lamp power braid on the back of the head insert door.

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

I hope you plugged the connectors back in when the machine was off?
Look at the loose thick braid wire in the backbox that gets screwed to the bottom of the head. Sometimes people leave so much slack on that braid wire that it accidentally touches the feature lamp power braid on the back of the head insert door.

So I found a ground wire in the back box that goes from the the bg lock bar to the right side panel of the back box was broken right out of the terminal. The wire was still touching what was left in the contact. I could see while playing a game the wire shaking n making contact. So I fixed it and played several games without issue.

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