What does the high voltage section read?

First test the rectifier board (we want to start at the beginning):

TP2 = +230 vdc with connector J3 attached, 150 vdc with J3 disconnected.

Then test the solenoid board:

TP2 = +190 vdc (but often turned down to 170 volts to increase score display life).
TP4 = +230 vdc

Yes, the upper left side of the board has the HV components.

If I was to guess at one part, it is the C26 cap (160mfd 350v)

You can get a complete HV rebuild kit for $25:

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/bally_kits.htm

Well worth your time!

You can, of course test the three transistors and the 1004 diode, if you are comfortable in that level of repair.

Bulletproof the driver board while you have it out:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Many electrolytic caps have a 20% tolerance, so 180uf should be fine.

The 400v is good as it will make the cap last longer (on average).

I think he is saying 25k ohm when turned up?

No need to be sorry, that's just my guess!

I could be wrong..........................

Replace that connector, the soldering is super crappy and sloppy. All that solder splatter is just begging to kill the board.

Also there is a cold solder joint that needs to be reflowed.

solenoidConnector.JPG

A good joint pools the solder equally around the component lead.

Obviously, I don't have it in front of me, but it sure looks like a bad joint from here.

The Bally just had those tiny connectors, and thinner circuit boards; probably saved a few cents per board.

They are not hard to work with, but because the pins are small (and that means tiny area of electrical contact), it is especially important they be nice and unoxidized .

Resolder the connector pins on display 4. It's got "that look" of cracked solder joints.