Teacher's Pet
Williams, 1965Just got this game and nothing works on game besides the outholes.when i turn game on the only way it comes to life is if i hold in the left flipper button then it will light up and if i put the ball in the eject hole it will eject besides that DOA! please help any advice would be great.
This is the normal power up procedure for this era of machine - connecting the power cord and then pressing the flipper button or closing the coin switch will energize the lock or hold relay and distribute power to the circuits.
Placing the ball in one of the playfield eject holes and having it ejected from the hole is normal when the machine is in game over mode.
What happens to machine when it's powered on and the ball is placed in the outhole below the flippers? What happens when you press the red credit/start button on the front of the cabinet?
The only thing that happens is the lights stay on when the ball is in the outhole after pressing the front button. The switch stack is badly bent so no contact is made to be able to get the ball to eject to shooter lane but i manually used my finger to push it and still nothing happens once the ball is their.
Yes i manually put credits on the wheel and still nothing but it does subtract a credit from the wheel when i press thw front button twice but nothing else works as stated before besides the eject holes when i press the buttons in at the same time. Does anyone have a copy of schematic they can post. I also need to know what size fuses go where so i can replace them with new. Thanks
Quoted from Pinaddict91:I also need to know what size fuses go where so i can replace them with new. Thanks
Test them first. No need to waste a good fuse. Have you tried pushing the start relay?
Quoted from currieddog:Test them first. No need to waste a good fuse. Have you tried pushing the start relay?
Yes i pushed the start relay unfortunatly game still does not respond
Quoted from fredsmythson:What happens when you manually push in the coin relay or replay relay?
The game seems like it wants to start up but just buzz. Nothing works on the game besides the eject holes & once i let go of either the game fully turns off.
If the machine powers off after the ball is ejected from one of the four kickout holes, then there might be a burnt coil/solenoid on one of the kickout hole units or on a related circuit. Check for any burnt or damaged coils/solenoids throughout the machine.
Well i found out that the reason why it was not turning on was because the lower cabinet tilt was to close together now when i press the front button the lights come on and stay on but thats it. Side note i do NOT see any burnt coils that i can tell. I am trying to figure out how to make it free play once i have credits on the wheel to see if thats the peoblem.
Quoted from Pinaddict91:how to make it free play once i have credits on the wheel to see if thats the peoblem.
I tried that still not fixing the problem. Anyone that has a schematic for a teachers pet could email it to me?.
Quoted from Pinaddict91:I tried that still not fixing the problem. Anyone that has a schematic for a teachers pet could email it to me?.
Pinball resource probably has one
You can always look at a mid-1960s Williams 1-player schematic like River Boat ,
Soccer ,
Full House ,
Hot Line , etc. The non-playfield circuity is similar and it might give you some clues to solving some of the problems.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1965/Williams_1964_River_Boat_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf
https://www.ipdb.org/files/2232/soccer_schematic.pdf
https://www.ipdb.org/files/961/Williams_1966_Full_House_Schematic_submitted_by_Steve_Corley.pdf
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1245/Williams_1966_Hot_Line_Schematic_Diagram_continuous.pdf
Read the schematic best i could still no luck even replaced qll the fuses with no sucess. Wondering if anyone is avaliable to get on video of some form to walk me thru with some help want it working for a get together this weekend hopefully any help would be appriciated.
Quoted from Pinaddict91:Wondering if anyone is avaliable to get on video of some form to walk me thru with some help want it working for a get together this weekend hopefully any help would be appriciated.
You can make a vid of what's happening, post to YouTube, and then put that link up here.
Quoted from Pinaddict91:Read the schematic best i could
Quoted from Pinaddict91:Wondering if anyone is avaliable to get on video of some form to walk me thru with some help
I'd help but these days most people can't get me the high quality copy of the schematic I need, from (for example) Staples ($2) or Kinkos ($6)
Or how about this
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/an-em-pinball-online-repair-clinic
Generally when I get a new EM that isn't playing, I go through and inspect every relay, switch and wire in the whole game. Seriously on a one player game it doesn't take as long as it sounds to go through everything. Manually close all of the relays and make sure the switches all close and open properly. Look for broken switch blades, missing switch points, wires that look like they are attached but actually hanging loose, burnt coils or anything else that looks funny. Then I generally like to clean the rivets on the steppers and make sure they are moving smoothly by stepping them manually. Check all the interconnect cables from the cabinet to playfield and backbox are correct and not laying on relays on the bottom board and impeding motion. I like to clean the pins on these cables with an abrasive plastic wheel just to get better connection. Checking and adjusting the score motors and switches is also a good idea and easy on a one player game. Score reels are probably not your current start up issue but you never know. A lot of times they can cause a continuous running score motor. Checking the tilt and slam tilt switches is a good idea too. On a game like Teachers Pet there is a kick switch in the cabinet on the bottom. Make sure it is not stuck closed.
On my game I installed an On/Off switch in the normal location. When I flick the switch "on" the whole game lights up and all I have to do is hit start.
20200615_204219 (resized).jpgSorry for the slow mo quality with the light flicker. There is a lot of action in the first couple of seconds and at the end after everything is reset.
Quoted from John_I:On a game like Teachers Pet there is a kick switch in the cabinet on the bottom. Make sure it is not stuck closed.
Not sure, but I think you want this switch to be closed to start a game.
Quoted from JethroP:Not sure, but I think you want this switch to be closed to start a game.
You are right. I had it backwards. This would definitely be a good thing to check on a machine that is not starting properly...
Ok when i get home ill make sure it is closed i do know while the game is on if i mess with that switch the game will cut off so does that mean its not closed in the first place?. (I notice when it touches the bottom part of the board it turns the game off so should i make sure the contacts are both together and then make sure they are pulled away from the bottom of the board with like a zip tie or something?. I have an on and off switch as well. Currently as jeffro knows the only thing working on my game is when i press the 3rd relay on the right bottom playfield if i touch the right flipper at the same time the 100s score changes and the right flipper moves.
Quoted from Pinaddict91:if i mess with that switch the game will cut off so does that mean its not closed in the first place?.
You are right, it is closed already. If that switch is open, then NOTHING would work at all.
My suggestion is to buy a schematic. I assume you have a digital volt meter and understand basic electrical circuits. John_I made very good recommendations above (post #22). Start tracing the power from the source to there it stops. It's can be a slow but methodical process. You may have something as simple as a broken wire or solder joint, or perhaps a misadjusted switch or burned up coil. While you may be able to find the problem just looking visually, I suggest a schematic and voltmeter.
I have a volt meter and a schematic is coming in the mail but im more of a visual learner. Ive used schematics in the past they never help
Quoted from John_I:Sorry for the slow mo quality with the light flicker. There is a lot of action in the first couple of seconds and at the end after everything is reset.
Could u send me close up pics of all your bottom board switches and the reset bank attached to bottom of playfield pics i want to make sure all the contacts are open where they should be and closed where they should be. Please. If not if anyone in in virginia that wants to make some money i could use a good williams tech
Beautiful well loved game i hope i can get mine working like yours i looked at my relays none are in that bad of shape im thinking its the bank attached to the playfield.
When I got my Teacher's Pet it didn't work. Found many problems...broken wires and solder joints. They were not obvious looking at them. I literally had to pull on each wire and solder connection to find them. Also dirty switch contacts and incorrectly connected wires. Definitely needed the schematic to trace the wrong wires. It's tedious and time consuming, but that's part of the hobby. 
It's a great game!
Thats what makes it so difficult is i paid so much for it because i know how awesome the game is its just getting it their. I guess if i cant figure it out in a couple weeks ill have to find someone who wants some money to fix it.
Had a friend help me. The game is fixed problem was a loose jones plug but also mostly in the sequence bank was not adjusted properly thus not making proper connections when it came down. Thank u everyone for their help.
I helped him get it sorted yesterday. As he said, a jones plug was "plugged" so that the males were between the female openings, not in them. Another jones plug wasn't pushed in all the way. And the big sequence bank of latched relays attached to the underside of the pf was majorly screwed up - all the rollers were in the wrong position, supposed to be between some switch leafs, but were on top of them instead, so none of the switches in those banks were opening/closing correctly. (How does that kind of stuff happen??) Luckily, the switch leafs weren't mangled, so I adjusted/cleaned all the switches on the latched relays for proper opening/closing once the rollers were in the correct position... 3 hours of work.
Playfield and backglass were in great condition - it's a fun game!
Quoted from paulace:I helped him get it sorted yesterday. As he said, a jones plug was "plugged" so that the males were between the female openings, not in them. Another jones plug wasn't pushed in all the way. And the big sequence bank of latched relays attached to the underside of the pf was majorly screwed up - all the rollers were in the wrong position, supposed to be between some switch leafs, but were on top of them instead, so none of the switches in those banks were opening/closing correctly. (How does that kind of stuff happen??) Luckily, the switch leafs weren't mangled, so I adjusted/cleaned all the switches on the latched relays for proper opening/closing once the rollers were in the correct position... 3 hours of work.
Playfield and backglass were in great condition - it's a fun game!
^
What a guy he is always helping where he can goes to show pinball has helped me enjoy life but more meet some awesome friends.
Glad you got it going. Good thing about the old one-player games is they are fairly simple. Once they have been gone through by someone who knows what they are doing, they seem to be very reliable. Good luck!
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