My Taxi Pinbot drop targets stopped registering a few days ago and all I had to do to fix them was unplug and plug the opto board connector back in. Seems like a common issue.

Your problem sounds like it could be mechanical now, (things not lining up). When I replaced the rubber grommets on each board it was possible to get the e clip back on, but still have the board too far away from the fin on the target bank. Check that the target fin is passing deep enough into the opto valley. In test mode, all balls removed of course, drop one target and see if it registers, if not, gently apply pressure on the opto board behind the opto (solder side) of the target you just dropped to see if it trips the opto. You still could still have a loose connection of some kind too. Took me a while to find the broken leads on a few of my opto's.

That opens up a subject of debate. You can certainly re-use or replace the IDC molex plugs you already have, or upgrade to the new style molex plugs. If it was me I like to use the IDC plugs, even though this is exactly what happens. Some would disagree. It's tougher to cram more than one wire into the newer style molex plugs. You will probably be fine just re inserting the wires into their press fit terminal with the proper tool, or a tiny flat balde screwdriver. I've had perfect luck doing this many times as long as there are no burn marks, being it's all very low voltage you shouldn't have any. Here is a little research material. The best learning experience is just what you are going through.

http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

Wooo Hooooo!
Nice work!

GL with getting the bell fixed, that adds something to the game. Oddly, on mine the knocker assembly was completely missing with the wires hanging, just like on yours. The bell wires were cut on mine. Hopefully yours is just as easy a fix.

Glad to hear that you fixed the drop targets, well done! What does the bell do in test mode, anything? All connections good? Did anyone perhaps monkey with the bell itself so it would not ring, like stuff something into it, or alter it?

Just wanted to say that I am impressed with your though processes.

It is one thing to ask for help, but another altogether to do that, learn from it, and post your results. This will make you a better tech in the future. I am learnign from this as well, and appreciate all of your updates.

Chris

Ok, from attract mode open the coin door, remove the balls, push the center red button (Auto up/Manual down) so it's locked in and lower than the outer 2, then push the black button to the left (Advance). You're now in test mode. It's the same way you entered the switch test mode.

Once in test mode release the center red (Auto up/Manual down) button so it's as tall as the rest, push the left advance button slowly till you get to the words "Coil Test". As soon as you get to the coil test, promptly push the center Auto up/Manual down button to pause the entire coil test. Then go back to the left Advance button pushing slowly till you get to the "Cabinet Bell" test. This is test number 05-13. The bell does a continual pulse ring about 1/2 second on, 1/2 second off in this test.

I think this tests the bell regardless of weather it's set to "on of off" in the game settings menu.

post a pic of your bell assembly.

Great job, and your done!

Awesome!
WTG!

I had to file some material off of the bottom of my repro ramp to get it to sit flush.

My thoughts are your screws aren't down far enough. You sure you're using the correct screws too?

In pic 3 it looks like they aren't screwed in far enough.

those screws are tricky because they are small and hard to crank down. You need a really nice tiny screwdriver with a bigger handle on it, so you can get enough torque on it. But has to fit in tight with a nice new tip or you'll strip them out.

Another trick I found out about my Taxi, the further you screw those 2 tiny screws tight, the more the metal lip will "dip" down and cause problems. I've actually had to back off my screws a tiny bit to get the ramp flush and keep the metal ramp lip a smooth incline.

i'm talking about stripping out the phillips part, not the wood. ALso, I think the flaps on Taxi have that thick tape under the flaps if I remember correctly. But not sure. Been about 6 months since I had to do a Taxi playfield.

I had this same problem with a repro ramp (they are thicker/stronger than the original) and ended up removing wood to get the ramp to sit flush. As I recall all I had to do was make the existing cutout a little deeper. My screw holes were also stripped, so I fixed them with bamboo skewers and elmers glue.

Chris

I used a dremel with a sanding tip. I'm not saying that's the best way as I'm not a carpenter, but that is what I did. If you ever wanted to add that wood back, I'd think wood putty would work. The way these ramps get beat up, I'd stick with the repros.

Chris

I used a really small dremel and then vacuumed. The pin already needed a full shop (and still does). I'd probably have the dremel in one hand and a vacuum in the other if you are concerned about it though.

Chris

I love my Dremel! Have you thought about using the Dremel with either a stone grinder bit, or a sanding bit, used on the leading edge of the ramp under the metal flap? Ramps are cheaper to replace than playfields, and more avail. I just bought both repro ramps, but will not install till I receive the repro playfield and do a complete rework. I'm sure you already know this but, your screws are supposed to countersink just below the entrance flap when everything is seated correctly.
I could remove my left ramp and pre-fit the new one in place to see if I get the same thing you are getting and maybe offer some other suggestions.

I just decided to look at my ramps briefly. The thickness at the base of the repro ramp verses the thickness of the original ramp is nearly the same, doesn't look like it's enough to give you the lift you are getting. With that said, something I see that should be done is the screw holes in the plastic need to be drilled with a countersink bit, or Dremel cone shape grinding stone slightly to allow the screw to sink past the flap. You may also want to check under the flap to see if you are completely resting in the wood cutout. It might be a good idea to loosen everything up and start at the entrance of the ramp first making sure it drops into the cutout. I had this same issue with the HighSpeed ramp. Ended up loosening up everything and starting with the entrance first.

counter_sink_bits_200_07.jpg countersink_pilot_hole.jpg

I would think the best thing is to loosen everything, remove the screws at the ramp entrance, fit the entrance of the ramp into the wood cutout, once you know that you are in the cutout, then see where your screw holes are in relation to the holes in the wood. I have talked to James at Pinball INC before buying mine about a month ago, he mentioned that these ramps were made from the original molds, so you should line up good. The screw heads should countersink almost flush with the plastic. If you create too big of a countersink hole you will be left with nothing for the screw to hold on to. Best to drill a little then test, then more if needed. You're only looking for the screw to pop below the ramp flap. IMG_2028.JPG IMG_2029.JPG IMG_2030.JPG

If the screws are at least flush with the steel flap, you should be fine.

Yep, just be sure that when you shoot your ramps, the ball doesn't launch up. I had that happen a few times with my repro ramps. If it does, no worries, just back your screws out a little until it rides the ramp cleanly.

Good fix on the ramp with the washers. Avoiding anything evasive is always the best solution.

They both go on the inside of the ramp to help protect the inner sidewall.

I could be wrong, but I'd say yes. It's like a cliffy protector from the factory. When I got my Taxi both side flaps were on the outside of each ramp, i looked at that and figured that made no sense, and did nothing on the outside. What makes sense is the ball enters the left ramp mostly from the right flipper which tends to impact the left sidewall, and the reverse for the right ramp.

Where did you find a complete knocker?

Congrats! You've done a bang up job in getting this one back to life. Taxi is a great game and never leaving my collection.

After spending the last two days working on my Taxi (first pin), I read this thread with great interest. You Rock MOF, and how cool is this community offering their time and advice? How hard was it to get your bumpers working well? I've been struggling with mine, but tomorrow is another day.