(Topic ID: 41147)

Taxi Project - Reassembly (success!)


By mof

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 102 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by pinwillie
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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There have been 29 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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There are 102 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 7 years ago

[This re-assembly thread has a few problems that have already been solved in it, game is 100%]

thanks!
-mof

---

Looking for some Taxi owners/restorers to chime in.

I picked up a very very clean Taxi that needs reassembly. Got a nice .zip of 50 pics from the seller to assist reassembly. PF has mylar recently removed, needs some minor touch-up in certain areas where the seller rubbed too hard.

1) Can any Taxi owners point me to any good links on tips 'n' hints on the reassembly of Taxi?

2) Is there anything I should consider doing or replacing beyond having new rubbers and star posts on hand as I go?

3) Playfield was rubbing alcohol + magic erasered, and it looks great and it's very flat (8/10), unfortunately the seller rubbed off a few spots of the grey background color. Has anyone matched the Taxi colors, and can recommend some PAINT?

4) What is the ideal clean/polish/waxing I should do on this PF before reassembly, considering some touchups with no clearcoat. I'm leaning towards no CC no TC power polish, since there is still paint work to do, and I'm not in a rush to work on that. I think it's more important to know if the machine works well, to honor the seller's promise (see below)

5) Should I not sweat the PF decisions since Taxi is a rather shallow re-assembly, and just put it together and see if it functions well? Also, one touchup place is above the inlane so easy to do by hand with parts on.

...Seller promised to assist with repairs/parts if anything doesn't function as promised. Good guy.

Will be my first reassembly project. Going to have a six pack on hand, and a good friend with me to work in parallel, hoping we can complete it in 3-6 hours. Should be fun, but I am expecting a few snags to pop up, will start early in the day next Saturday.

thanks!
MOF

#2 7 years ago
Quoted from mof:

...Seller promised to assist if anything doesn't function as promised. Good guy.

Get good guy over there and do it ?

I hope he didn't already assemble it because he knew something you will discover.

Good luck.

LTG : )

#3 7 years ago

If you touch up, you will have to clearcoat (either the whole PF, or where the touchups are) or put mylar over the touch ups.

The grey (if it is like HS) will not be a true grey, and will probably not match right out of the bottle due to fading. I like to use old contact lens cases to hold paint while I try to paint match.

DO NOT use the TC kit on the taxi. No clearcoat on that pf = massive paint loss. Make sure all the glue is off and then a nice coat of wax if you want.

I would also check all the t-nuts to make sure there are no posts snapped off in them. Pretty common in Sys 11 games to have all the t-nut posts loctited in place, and VERY common to have those snap off.

#4 7 years ago

You are psychic.

The guy snapped off 4 posts and so I had to go and order a few and the corresponding T Nuts -- I think that's why he left a dozen or so posts standing on the PF... Post respect ! I believe he stopped trying to remove em.

thanks!
MOF

#5 7 years ago

Taxi Grey and High Speed grey are a nightmare to match. Search for a thread on RGP or here (somewhere) that Phoebe Smith discussed what to use. You will have to match yours specifically because no two have the same amount of fading. The acrylics she used are "avacado dip" mixed with some grey, I don't recall which.

I just did my HS, and it was a nightmare to match.

#6 7 years ago

Per Phoebe on the grey paint I asked her about a year or 2 ago;

Quoting her email to me; "Gray paint for TAXI & BC “American Acrylics “Sky Grey”"

BTW: BC = Bad Cats

#7 7 years ago

It is not a particularly difficult or complicated setup.
But there are some non-obvious routings for wires and assembly order issues.
Don't plan on being right on everything the first time.
Expect "Oh crap, this should have gone on already. Gotta take those back off."
Several times.

Example: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-to-identify-taxi-part

Have fun, be in a zen reassembly mood when you start.

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

It is not a particularly difficult or complicated setup.
But there are some non-obvious routings for wires and assembly order issues.
Don't plan on being right on everything the first time.
Expect "Oh crap, this should have gone on already. Gotta take those back off."
Several times.
Example: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-to-identify-taxi-part
Have fun, be in a zen reassembly mood when you start.

Ha! Yep, that was me not more than 2 weeks ago. Luckily, a friend and I were able to put her back together without too many hiccups, though it helped that we were the ones that took it apart.

(1) The pics on ipdb are a good source for figuring out where things go, but they are not very detailed and most are taken with the plastics and ramps on. They will give you a good idea for scale to mount ramps and spinout and help you determine where posts go.

(2) Go ahead and order all new posts. Cheap and you'll be glad you did. Also, since it's all apart and you have no idea where anything goes, tumble your metal parts if you can. Again, you'll be glad you did. New plastics and ramps are great if yours are bad. I bought new ramps and plastics, so let me know if you need anything, I probably have it.

(3) My buddy painted my playfield and tried to match the gray as best he could, but due to fading, it was impossible to really determine the original color (look under posts to find something very close to the original as possible). My friend ended up painting all of the gray area and it looks great.

(4) DO THE CLEARCOAT.

(5) I wouldn't call Taxi a "shallow assembly." Sure it maybe shallower than some, but getting the height of everything right and determining where various types of posts go (lots of them) can be daunting. Do the playfield first. When reassembling take your time, use some pics, and experiment regarding where things should go. Some parts can only go in one place and their function will make sense once you get them in place.

Let me know if you have any parts that just slay you and maybe we can figure it out together and I can send you a pic (if I don't have to remove anything too difficult). I will follow this thread. Good luck, Taxi is a fantastic game and so glad I made the choice to restore mine (some before and after): http://s1029.beta.photobucket.com/user/necrom99/library/Taxi.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from singlebanana:

(5) When reassembling take your time, use some pics, and experiment regarding where things should go. Some parts can only go in one place and their function will make sense once you get them in place. Let me know if you have any parts that just slay you and maybe we can figure it out together and I can send you a pic (if I don't have to remove anything too difficult). I will follow this thread. Good luck, Taxi is a fantastic game and so glad I made the choice to restore mine (some before and after): http://s1029.beta.photobucket.com/user/necrom99/library/Taxi.

So we pulled the trigger and started. I brought over a friend who repairs bicycles, and he was perfect to help us keep pace and choose the right bolts for the right spots. That was the biggest challenge. Had to re-solder a few switches that luckily still work. I would say we got about 60% done in 8 hours working together on it.

I decided NOT to clearcoat, and not to repaint. I will tear it down and reassemble it another day if I ever want to give it a perfect playfield look. The amount of grey that was applied was minimal. Chose this path, really to honor the sale, so I can report back to the seller any issues now and not 3 months from now.

Only medium sized problem we found so far is the spin out ramp has 3-4 busted out screw in holes, and there is one ball guide piece broken off inside the cup where the ball spins. The actually ramp strength and cup integrity is very good. (I've seen worse). So it will just be a question of it there are other ways to install it in place and hold it down -- we'll see when we get there.

Another issue is I don't know how the pop bumpers should be installed. I see that there are 2 thin leaf leads that come out of each one -- they were removed to replace the white plastics that had burned a hole in the side of each one due to a bulb I presume. I see what I presume is a stapled ground braid under the PF, and so I have a few questions:

1) Can someone post a link that shows how to reinstall pop bumpers on a system 11 ?

I prefer reading rather than asking anyone to type a tutorial... but if you have tons of time on your hands today...

A) If you know how, can you post some steps. I am wondering if I *have* to buy a staple gun to reattach? I have one, but as you already know it's not designed to get in between gaps.

B) Is there a specific positive and negative lead or are they interchangeable on the pop bumper?

C) If the ground braid is for the negative, where do the positives go? I see the three solenoids that form a triangle under the PF, but not sure precisely where the leads would end up.

If someone wants to toss a picture of the underside of their taxi, and point to the solder points that would be cool. I have three other pins to look and get a "sense" of where they will go, but being 100% sure is always nice.

D) Anything else I should know about re-soldering the pop bumpers into place would be good to know. I read about a lot of people having pop bumper issues, and naturally, I'd hate to introduce a problem out of ignorance.

OVERALL
Visually, all three sets of plastic and the leads look good, and the machine is otherwise performing well to the switch tests -- we were able to pick up 5 passengers, and score the jackpot. Music plays, and the game just looks lovely. A real gem as far as I can tell so far.

Off to home depot and Orchard Hardware to hunt down some long machine screws for the star posts. The seller was short by at least 5 of them. I MUST see this game play, and today is the day !!!

thanks!
MOF

#10 6 years ago

Taxi at 60% completion about 16 man-hours in. Slow I know, but it was our first time reassembling a PF. Nothing but non-stop fun for a Nub...

taxi_60%.jpg

#13 6 years ago

Oh, and btw @pinwillie you have a *very* nice selection of games for your collection. HAHA. You are only 1 pin away from a having a perfect collection of top system 11 games...

GRAND f****g LIZARD !!!
(I think there's one for sale right now in LA on Mr. Pin, but way over-priced)

you'll thank me, later!
-MOF

#14 6 years ago

Man I want that sys 11 collection.

#15 6 years ago

If you have a Taxi, can you please check your Taxi, and tell me what kind of Switch Wire is just in front of the Spinout Kickbig (the thing that launches the ball after the skill shot spin out drops the ball down to the PF.) I think my Switch Wire is shorter and malformed, and I would like to see how this wire is normally shaped/formed.

thanks!
MOF

switch_spinbig1.jpg switch_spinbig2.jpg

#16 6 years ago

Can anyone who owns a Taxi help identify the correct part shown above? This is under the spinout, so you might get a better view under the PF.

thanks!
MOF

#17 6 years ago

It might be quite difficult to get a pic of that wire, since it is under the spinout and that takes quite a bit of work to get it off. I'll see what I can do about trying to get to it under the playfield.

#18 6 years ago

[3 MYSTERY PIECES SOLVED]

Other than re-attaching the three pop bumpers, this reassembly project is almost done. It is playing properly without the pop bumpers.

I have three pieces left. Can a Taxi owner, help me figure out where these last three pieces go?

My guess is that the ball guide and one-way ball wire guide have something to do with the spinout, but I didn't see an obvious place to attach them. Right now, after spinout, the ball drops with a thud to the playfield, then rolls into the spinbig then the ball launches to above the "ABC" lanes. It all works, but I suspect those parts assist in a softer landing and preventing the ball to return into that area on a bounce. Thoughts?

thanks!
MOF

ball_guide.jpg one_way_wire_guide.jpg wtf_is_this_chunk_of_steel.jpg

#19 6 years ago

Your first picture is the flap that mounts directly to the bottom hole of the spinout ramp to dampen the fall to the playfield.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from shock_me:

Your first picture is the flap that mounts directly to the bottom hole of the spinout ramp to dampen the fall to the playfield.

You know, that's what I thought too, but I sure didn't see a mount point for it. Any ideas?

#21 6 years ago

I would know for sure if I was home looking at it, but I know it is mounted there somewhere for sure. If you don't get an answer in the next few hours, I'll let you know.

#22 6 years ago
Quoted from singlebanana:

It might be quite difficult to get a pic of that wire, since it is under the spinout and that takes quite a bit of work to get it off. I'll see what I can do about trying to get to it under the playfield.

For the switch, if you can just undo the two screws holding it in, and photograph it out, then slide it back in, that would be the easiest route. Much easier than removing the spinout -- unless u can find a great angle to photograph the switch from above the PF. I just pulled mine out below the PF in 30 seconds and it plays fine without it -- I think it was just a sound-switch, not a score or ball-location switch.

#23 6 years ago

The "flap" that goes under the spinout drop screws into the top of the playfield "wall" with two wood screws, just to the right of the support post that holds up the spinout bowl.
The wide one way gate mounts just to to the left of that same post. It keeps the ball from going backwards into the spinout kickout and also the Gorbechev/jackpot path. One end screws to the playfield "wall", the other end screws to the top of the rightmost rollover guide.

Can't figure out what that other piece is, and it's driving me crazy.

#24 6 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Can't figure out what that other piece is, and it's driving me crazy.

LOL, I think it's a freebie, I don't even think it goes to the Taxi.

I got 4 buckets of pieces with this project, and the nice Taxi. So far it's turned out to be a good project. I learned a lot.

#25 6 years ago

[POP BUMPER WIRING ON HOLD UNTIL 110% DONE WITH RE-ASSEMBLY]

Dear Taxi owner,

Can you please post a few well-lit closeups of the underside of your playfield, so I can see how the pop bumpers lamp wires are wired up?

thanks!
MOF

#26 6 years ago

Pics -

IMG_0420.jpg

#27 6 years ago

More -

IMG_0414.jpg IMG_0418.jpg

#28 6 years ago

Couple more

IMG_0419.jpg IMG_0415.jpg

#29 6 years ago

Bonus Pic -
Hey, what's the weather like there in Michigan?

IMG_0413.jpg

#30 6 years ago

Bonus Pic -
Hey, what's the weather like there in Michigan?
OOPS -
Duplicate post. And it was a few days ago anyway.

#31 6 years ago

Thanks man - it sure is tricky to get shots of where the lamp leads attach !

thanks!
MOF

#32 6 years ago

Just heard from the previous owner that the "chunk of steel" is the lockdown for the coin box. This Taxi has a weird weird coin box in it.

Sounds like all the part mysteries for the day have been solved !

Thanks!
MOF

#33 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

the lockdown for the coin box

Wasn't going to figure that out!
GL with your re-assembly.
Very fun game when you're done.

#34 6 years ago
Quoted from shock_me:

Your first picture is the flap that mounts directly to the bottom hole of the spinout ramp to dampen the fall to the playfield.

Got the flap installed, thanks for the help on that. Also, mounted the one-way gate as well.

ALL PIECES ACCOUNTED FOR !!!

thanks!
MOF

#35 6 years ago

[IS THIS THE GORBY FLASHER?]

Does anyone know what this lamp is for? I've replaced it, and not sure when it's supposed to come on - wondering if it's just for some special jackpot?

mystery_taxi_lamp.jpg

#36 6 years ago

Can I borrow a Taxi owner for 10 minutes, and ask you to please remove this wire switch on bottom of PF, and take a few close up pics of it's design? Apparently, I am to purchase a 4" switch and bend it in 4-5 spots and try to re-create this switch design myself. It took me 30 seconds to remove it with 2 screws on bottom of PF, much easier than removing the Spinout and viewing from top. Also, we'll get a much better picture with it dangling.

I presume I should make the final two bends to mimic an inlane switch, but I would love confirmation.

thanks!
MOF

switch_spinbig1.jpg

#37 6 years ago

Some Bay area help here...or not
looks like my switch has been replaced before also, this is working for me with no issues.

2013-03-09_09.23.24.jpg

1 week later
#38 6 years ago

[WIRE SWITCH SOLVED]

Thanks pinwillie, I ended up copying a wire switch from an inlane, and just had to make it considerably TALLER, and it worked !

Thanks for the pic and the help!
MOF

#39 6 years ago

[ALL 6 OPTO TARGETS FAIL SWITCH TEST]

Tonight I learned how to set the leaves properly for the pop bumpers, they kick A$$ now. And I bent and soldered in a new lane switch for the spinout -- success !

Then of course I tried to do ONE more thing, and WHAM. No idea what I did wrong. Both sets of drop targets are not working now.

I wanted to clean out the two sets of drop targets. I started with the pinbot set. I removed the three e-clips, and the two wire couplers, and carefully removed the board. I cleaned the plastics with rubbing alcohol, I put the board back on gently, and the three e-clips. Started up my Taxi, and now BOTH sets of drop targets won't work.

I tried reseating the couplers to the pinbot drop target board and no difference.

I am 100% sure I didn't touch anything else, anyone have an idea what happened?

Is there any chance that a solenoid got stuck and blew a fuse? Is there a fuse just for the drop targets? I visually checked all the fuses and didn't see anything.

I didn't open the backglass at all, in order to clean the drop targets, so I can't imagine that something came loose in the backbox.

Out of ideas. Surely a pin-jedi out there knows exactly what's wrong.

thanks!
MOF

#40 6 years ago

Going back to something mentioned earlier about posts breaking off in T-nuts due to Locktite. Put this in your books for the future as I learned after breaking posts during an ES restoration.
Heat up a soldering iron and hold it to the bottom of the T-nut in the hole where the post is. Start to remove the post and it will come right out as the Locktite will be soft.
Safe yourself a hassle of replacing parts later at reassembly time

#41 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

New problem:
Out of ideas. Surely a pin-jedi out there knows exactly what's wrong.
thanks!
MOF

Been a while since I restored a Taxi but off the top of my head if I had that issue...
Visual inspection of fuses is hit or miss at best. Use a meter to be 100% sure. F2A on the Aux driver board I think might be suspect but I believe more on the A side would fail in testing.
You did both drop target banks and both now don't reset. The problem could be in how you reassembled them (same mistake twice like misaligning or not reconnecting the connectors) so recheck to make sure the pins are in the connectors correctly.
Does everything else work in test (flashers, solenoids)? Santa flasher and left ramp flasher are shared with those drop bank solenoids so if those work you're good up to the A/C relay (and assuming that's clicking/switching you should be good to the bank connectors.

#42 6 years ago

New information.

Ran coil test, this popped both sets back up.

Started up a game with hope, knocked down Lola targets. They don't come back up, so it's not SENSING that they are dropped.

I didn't touch LOLA targets at all when cleaning, only pinbot.

#43 6 years ago

Out of my area of knowledge, but odd that both sets stopped working when you only worked on one set.

Do they reset when you start a game, or only when you run the coil test?
Do you have any switch errors showing up?

#44 6 years ago

They do not reset when I start up a game, only when I run a coil test.

I am getting 12v coming into both Opto boards.

MOF

#45 6 years ago

[PURPLE WIRE + J9 SOLVED]

Here's a side WTF that I have no answers for. While visually inspecting for bad fuses, I noticed two things missing/unused in the backbox.

Can a Taxi owner, please take a quick peek in the backbox, and see if these two are in use in your machine?

* I have some purple wires with an unused coupler (see it dangling up there)
* J9 has nothing attached. In my Whirlwind it certainly does. This might be machine-specific, no idea.

(see pics)

thanks!
MOF

Taxi_J9_WTF.jpg Taxi_dangling_purple_and_brown.jpg

#46 6 years ago

Verify in a switch test, one target at a time, that each opto is showing each target in either the up, or down position. I had individual target issues on my Taxi causing failed complete bank resets, which turned out to be a cracked opto lead inside the opto housing out of sight, worked once, then just stopped. Also the replacement opto's I bought from Marco a few years ago were labeled backwards, the marker dot was on the wrong side, and this caused the opto to not work at all unless it was installed against the marker dot. Also reflow the solder on your header pins on each drop target board too. Check that you don't have a diode on the target coils too, they don't get a diode. J9 stays empty, looks like your hanging plug goes to the knocker (top Left of the head) based on the colors.

#47 6 years ago
Quoted from HighSpeed1:

Verify in a switch test, one target at a time, that each opto is showing each target in either the up, or down position.

[6 OPTOS FAILS SWITCH TEST] - [FIXED] !!!

I walked over to my Diner, and got to see "hot dog, hamburger, etc" for each one I knocked down, so I felt confident I ran the test correctly on my TAXI.

(recap)
* Both sets have 12vDC coming in.
* Both sets pop up for coil test.

I can't help but wonder what both sets have in common, that they both failed to sense or perhaps "report" what they see at the same time, when I was just cleaning one set of optos.

---
Regarding the hanging wire, and the Bell -- You are correct on the hanging wire.
* Missing knocker
* Thanks for info on J9, since everything functioned well until yesterday, I was a bit surprised to find an empty J9 (all of a sudden)
* Running the coil test, I learned bell isn't ringing as well. Low priority for me, will address another day.

#48 6 years ago

Could be something as simple as failing molex connections. These old connectors need to be repinned more often that not, especially under the playfield where vibrations run rampant. Such was the case on the drop targets for my Big Guns.

#49 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Running the coil test, I learned bell isn't ringing as well. Low priority for me, will address another day.

When you get around to this one, look for cut wires. Seems like operators just cut the wires when they were sick of the bell ringing. Mine was cut in the cabinet right next to the bell. There have been a few other posts where this was done. That's an easy fix if it's the problem.

#50 6 years ago

The bell ring test shares another component, the bell uses one side of the relay, the other item uses the other. It's very easy to pass it if you don't manually advance through each test slowly. You can also remove each opto board, start a switch test, and block the opto beam with a business card, the beam registers closed when blocked, also you can wiggle the plugs to see if you have a loose plug on the board.

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