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(Topic ID: 267491)

Taxi post sizes

By Jmckune

3 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

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20 posts
6 Pinsiders participating
Latest reply 3 years ago by Numskul
Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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Taxi Williams, 1988

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#1 3 years ago

JAM

So I’m restoring my Taxi. As with all system 11s there are some posts with loctite. Does anyone know the size of the stud inside of the star post that use loctite? Screw in from the top. So I can go ahead and order the new one? The t nut isn’t even secured to the playfield on all but 1 location so I’m probably going to have to break them to get them off. There are 3 of them on the playfield, 2 behind Lola targets and 1 near the catapult. Of course posts aren’t mentioned in the manual for some reason

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#2 3 years ago

SMK

TheLaw

Pinside+ Addict

Ann Arbor, MI

12y 162K 48,068 19 30 1

#6 is pretty standard, but I'll let others chime in. I always order 6 & 8 which are the most used.t nuts come out easy with a small screwdriver put down the top and a quick hammer blow or 2 will pop them out...they gonback in just as easy.
Good luck!

#3 3 years ago

C&P

Pablito350

Pinside member

Red Lion, PA

5y 100K 1,074 11 7

6-32

Put the tip of your soldering gun on the bottom of the stud as it passes through the t-nut. The heat will loosen the locktite so you can remove them without breaking them.

The stud on the 3rd star post also supports the ramp. Don't break it. They're expensive! The half of that stud that threads into the t-nut is 6-32. The top part of the stud is 8-32. You also have the same stud on the slings as well that support the ramps.

The T-nuts are cheap. Stock up on 6-32 and 8-32.

Hope this helps.

-Paul

#4 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

Quoted from Pablito350:
6-32
Put the tip of your soldering gun on the bottom of the stud as it passes through the t-nut. The heat will loosen the locktite so you can remove them without breaking them.
The stud on the 3rd star post also supports the ramp. Don't break it. They're expensive! The half of that stud that threads into the t-nut is 6-32. The top part of the stud is 8-32. You also have the same stud on the slings as well that support the ramps.
The T-nuts are cheap. Stock up on 6-32 and 8-32.
Hope this helps.
-Paul

I got the one that supports the ramp off. I’m a little bit farther than when I took this picture. To my surprise as far as the plastic star post are concerned. I only ran into 3 of them that had a T nut on the bottom. Every post I’m finding appears to have an open top for a screw to go in. Is this normal? It looked like it was a long screw that went all the way down into the T nut on the bottom for those 3 specific posts. Can anyone provide a link for a match on these 3 or can I substitute?

#5 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

These are the only 2 plastic post left on the playfield.

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#6 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

Would this be it? Along with the accompanying T-Nut? I’ll double check the one I already broke but this is what those 3 Specific post, the other one being near the catapult, look like

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#7 3 years ago

Blackbeard

Pinside member

12y 106K 12,108 6 20

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-snapped-post-stud

This was my thread. It’s bad cats but I’m sure they’re the same.

Order a bunch of both sizes. That’s what I did.

Snapped posts are the one reason I hate shopping system 11s.

#8 3 years ago

SMK

TheLaw

Pinside+ Addict

Ann Arbor, MI

12y 162K 48,068 19 30 1

Oh oh, blue GI

#9 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

Quoted from TheLaw:
Oh oh, blue GI

Oh trust me. That’s how I got it. That’s being fixed before this thing goes back together.

#10 3 years ago

ABP

andre060

Pinside+ Frequent

11y 79,800 609 30

You're giving me flashbacks to my Taxi playfield swap. I un-did those posts with a regular nut driver and it took so much force my hands hurt for weeks afterwards. I've since bought a T-handle driver, and have noted the tip to use a soldering iron to loosen the lock-tite!

#11 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

Quoted from andre060:
You're giving me flashbacks to my Taxi playfield swap. I un-did those posts with a regular nut driver and it took so much force my hands hurt for weeks afterwards. I've since bought a T-handle driver, and have noted the tip to use a soldering iron to loosen the lock-tite!

Luckily I’m not going to be taking everything off the bottom of the playfield. I’m doing a hardtop. I’m not sure I’d have the skill needed for a full playfield swap. Hopefully this turns out good and I’m happy I did it.

#12 3 years ago

SMK

TheLaw

Pinside+ Addict

Ann Arbor, MI

12y 162K 48,068 19 30 1

OP
Quoted from Jmckune:
I’m not sure I’d have the skill needed for a full playfield swap.

Just takes, tons of pics, some soldering, and a shitload of beer.

#13 3 years ago

C&P

Pablito350

Pinside member

Red Lion, PA

5y 100K 1,074 11 7

OP
Quoted from Jmckune:
I got the one that supports the ramp off. I’m a little bit farther than when I took this picture. To my surprise as far as the plastic star post are concerned. I only ran into 3 of them that had a T nut on the bottom. Every post I’m finding appears to have an open top for a screw to go in. Is this normal? It looked like it was a long screw that went all the way down into the T nut on the bottom for those 3 specific posts. Can anyone provide a link for a match on these 3 or can I substitute?

Generally speaking if the post is in the line of fire from the flippers or the pop bumpers the post will be secured with a T-nut for added strength. If the post is on the lee side it will only be secured by screwing into the wood.

Look at the C - A - B lanes up top. The front post of each lane uses a T-nut while the rear posts screw right into the wood.

-Paul

#14 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

There are T nuts there. Must not have been loctite used everywhere on this one. It is number 553 so pretty early in the production

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#15 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

I’ve tried heating them up and it seemed like it was starting to work on the metal posts. Then the nuts backed out of the playfield and now I have no grip on the bottom. This is frustrating

#16 3 years ago

C&P

Pablito350

Pinside member

Red Lion, PA

5y 100K 1,074 11 7

#553 is the game number not the serial number. Williams assigned numbers for each game.

Just order new T-nuts, or if you are impatient you can bend the tabs on the T-nut to give it more bite into the wood.

In your pic above you can see that the front posts use T-nuts while the rear posts do not.

-Paul

#17 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

In that case mine is even earlier. #441 I believe? The posts I’m workin on now are the ones that are near the left side of the playfield near that airport ramp. There are 7 in a row. For the ones that have bolt attachments on top I assume 6/32 bottom 8/32 top like was mentioned earlier?

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#18 3 years ago

JAM

Jmckune

Pinside member

5y 80,850 1,898 7

I ordered a bunch of these, hopefully this gets me everything I need. Does this look right from those that have done system 11s?

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#19 3 years ago

Blackbeard

Pinside member

12y 106K 12,108 6 20

OP
Quoted from Jmckune:
I’ve tried heating them up and it seemed like it was starting to work on the metal posts. Then the nuts backed out of the playfield and now I have no grip on the bottom. This is frustrating

Some I replaced with just a nut instead of a tnut.

#20 3 years ago

ACP

Numskul

AP3 Shop

Denver, CO

6y 49,800 102 7

T nuts suck! I would use a washer n lock nut instead. A dremel with a cutoff wheel helped me best with all my stripped posts

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