Q33 is what activates the outhole kicker. Try shorting the tab on that and see if your outhole kicker fires. If not, check the wiring to the coil, and of course the coil itself.
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Q33 is what activates the outhole kicker. Try shorting the tab on that and see if your outhole kicker fires. If not, check the wiring to the coil, and of course the coil itself.
When you do the "short tab to ground" method of testing, all you're doing is guaranteeing that you have continuity from the transistor to the coil. Since nothing happens then there's a break somewhere in the wiring or connections between that transistor and the coil. Turn the game off, get your meter on buzz tone and check continuity from your ground tab to the connector, then from the connector to the interconnect board, then from then interconnect board to the coil. This may weed out the problem. If you don't get a buzz right away from the transistor tab to the connector, you'll have to pull the board for inspection. I've seen blown transistors or bad repair jobs that have taken whole traces off the board.
If you're missing voltage at that coil AND you have multiple coils/flashers not firing, then check for a break in the power rail/wiring that feeds all of them as well. Don't dig into ICs yet until you know a few things to be true 1: You have power present at all suspects coils 2: You get a result with every TIP102/120 tab you ground 3: You have continuity from each coil's ground wire back to its appropriate pin on the board. If it were just an IC problem you would STILL be able to fire the coils by grounding the tab, so just work on these connection issues first. Save the display issues for last, they don't affect gameplay and aren't in the same board/connector circuitry at all... totally unrelated.
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