(Topic ID: 164176)

Taxi - Outhole kicker not firing


By Nemesis

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by vintageclub
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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#1 3 years ago

I tested/short q8 and it activates the relay - hear clicks
I checked ohms on the coil and its over 3.5ohms
All outhole and trough switches check out good

Relay board c-11677-2 connector looks toasty... how can I test / measure the components in and out of series?

Where do I go from here...

Also bottom scoring display row is out. Power board issues?

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#2 3 years ago

i rewired the relay board, no change. only getting 40v to the lugs on the coil... any thoughts?

#3 3 years ago

Q33 is what activates the outhole kicker. Try shorting the tab on that and see if your outhole kicker fires. If not, check the wiring to the coil, and of course the coil itself.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from vintageclub:

Q33 is what activates the outhole kicker. Try shorting the tab on that and see if your outhole kicker fires. If not, check the wiring to the coil, and of course the coil itself.

Coil checks out 3.5ohms and 40v to both lugs. I short q33 and nothing happens. Do I need to short q8 actively and then try to short q33? If I short other tip122's stuff happens. Should I pull the board and test q33 in diode mode? Should I just replace feom the ttl on down on my mpu?

Thanks.

#5 3 years ago

Congrats on the new machine and good luck getting it up and running. Any chance you can reply to my DM's?

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from MRudowsky:

Congrats on the new machine and good luck getting it up and running. Any chance you can reply to my DM's?

Oh I didnt even notice! Sure, one sec

#7 3 years ago

When you do the "short tab to ground" method of testing, all you're doing is guaranteeing that you have continuity from the transistor to the coil. Since nothing happens then there's a break somewhere in the wiring or connections between that transistor and the coil. Turn the game off, get your meter on buzz tone and check continuity from your ground tab to the connector, then from the connector to the interconnect board, then from then interconnect board to the coil. This may weed out the problem. If you don't get a buzz right away from the transistor tab to the connector, you'll have to pull the board for inspection. I've seen blown transistors or bad repair jobs that have taken whole traces off the board.

#8 3 years ago

I am suspecting the transistors and maybe more down to the 7408 chip at U20 because I have multiple coils not firing and flashers on the same transistor not working (with brand new 906's in them). 7408 chip at U20 controls the pairs Q20/Q24, Q21/Q25, Q28/Q32, Q29/Q33 of 2N4401 and TIP122/102 solenoid drivers. Here is a video of the coil test :

For whatever reason the left half of my backglass GI came back on lol - and I am getting no voltage to the Outhole coil lugs.

Also, I appreciate your help vintage club, when I get home I will test from the transistor to the connector. Is this thread in the correct sub forum? I thought I would get way more sys 11 guru's to chime in.

Thank you again!

#9 3 years ago

After I figure out my coil issue I gotta check out the displays too: https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=c40-sPEkH_Y

#10 3 years ago

If you're missing voltage at that coil AND you have multiple coils/flashers not firing, then check for a break in the power rail/wiring that feeds all of them as well. Don't dig into ICs yet until you know a few things to be true 1: You have power present at all suspects coils 2: You get a result with every TIP102/120 tab you ground 3: You have continuity from each coil's ground wire back to its appropriate pin on the board. If it were just an IC problem you would STILL be able to fire the coils by grounding the tab, so just work on these connection issues first. Save the display issues for last, they don't affect gameplay and aren't in the same board/connector circuitry at all... totally unrelated.

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