So my taxi started acting up today. While playing all the sudden everything associated with the J12 connector stopped working. (Spinout flasher, Top Gate, joyride flasher, bell, GI playfield and insert, and jackpot flasher. The only thing that is working off that connector is the knocker. I looked at the connector and it looks a little bit sketchy. Reseating did not help. Any ideas as to what to do? There seems to be excess solder on the wrong side so I’m hoping that’s it. GRUMPY ?
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I checked fuse In F8. It works some of the flashers but not the ones affected. Swapping that working fuse to F3 changed only that no flashers were working. I think I popped a fuse on half the GI. There was a loose socket for coin door and the right side of playfield GI went out. Wire color white/yellow. Which fuse is that associated with? The System 11 book isn’t as clear as the WPC is

I think according to the backbox at least I need to check F2A. Wire colors match on that one

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The flashers associated with the red wire are working. (Every character and some other things). The ones that aren’t working are connected at 1J12 via the brown wires and are controlled solenoids. The switched solenoids are working properly while the controlled ones are not. This is why I’m thinking F2A? Am I missing something?

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Thanks for that. I should be able to get some fuses tomorrow at work while I wait for Marco order to get here so I can give those back to work. So basically it does have to be F1 or F3. I’ll see if I can get ahold of a fuse tomorrow and see.
This is an unrelated issue that I’m almost certain I blew a fuse with. There were a bunch of wires unplugged and hanging when I got the game. I found where those went and plugged them back in. One of the coin door lights were dangling and I accidentally touched the socket to some metal and all of the GI on the right side of the playfield associated with the white/yellow wire went out. I think that’s just one of the fuses on the backbox interconnect. Just don’t know if it’s 1,2,3, or 4. That issue I’m less worried about as I got the bracket mounted so it won’t happen again when I get the fuse in

Also thanks. That just proves I need to use my real manual vs the online one. The online was doesn’t have the full schematics so I wasn’t able to find the page you posted. Might explain why I couldn’t figure it out! This game has had bad work done to it but luckily my boss is a pro and he’s gonna clean it up for me tomorrow and I’ll pop new fuses in and hope for the best

Is left eject hole referring to the flasher or the actual eject? The joyride eject was still working but the flasher was not. If it’s the flasher then the explanation still makes sense but if it’s the actual eject solenoid then it doesn’t.

I have the CPU out right now getting that transistor area cleaned up. I know for sure the flasher for the joyride stopped working. I’m not sure if that is the “left eject hole” or not though. In another part of the book it is referred to as the top eject. I’m not sure what the left eject would be then because the only other thing on the left side is the catapult which was working. The Fuse in F1 visually looks broken so after I get back from work I’ll see if replacing that resolves anything.

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It has to referring to a flasher or something because on the same page of the schematics it refers to a “center eject hole” and I’m not sure what that could be at all

That’s what I figured after you posted the helpful picture I couldn’t get online. It visually looked blown I should be able to get a fuse from work today and clip those legs hopefully that sets me up good!

I am back from work. There were not any 2.5v fuses on hand so I’m going to have to wait until my Marco order gets here. We had a 5 though and the GI is restored, clipped those transistor legs so they shouldn’t cause any more problems.

This is a question related to GI issue that I thought was cause by a loose socket hitting something. I was tugging on wires when fuse blew for coin door so I’m almost certain it has to do with that socket but do either of these look shorted? I followed the whole wire and these were the only two that looked weird
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Edit: the last photo is the one I was messing with

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Maybe that coin door one is the problem then. The coin door ones are both so loose they won’t stay in place when you move them. I’ll try unplugging both and make sure that staple isn’t actually touching the switch and see what I get.

That one is good, it was the angle of the photo

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When testing if that coin door bulb is the cause should I disconnect the socket or just take the bulb out?

Ok so good news, the shorted section was definitely that coin door bulb. Took out and everything is staying on.

And replacing F1 fixed my initial issue in the post. Thanks for everyone’s help!