(Topic ID: 272900)

Taxi flipper problem #Taxi

By Toine79

3 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Toine79
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    DSC_2311 (resized).JPG
    DSC_2312 (resized).JPG
    flipper_circuit_diagram.jpg
    flipper_cabinet_wiring.jpg
    flipper_wire_colors.jpg
    3A9A81C4-E819-44FB-B434-A29DFB36AEC0 (resized).jpeg
    #1 3 years ago

    Hello,

    Bought several weeks ago a Taxi pinball in working condition. It was very dirty and playfield was in very bad condition.
    Went for a hardtop installation.

    Cleaned all metals under playfield. Installed new flipper assemblies with extension spring update.
    Tested one game and right coil smoked out and melted a little bid.
    Installed 2 new flipper coils with capacitors.
    Installed 2 new cabinet leaf switches.

    Last week I launched a game and only the left flipper works. Right does nothing.
    Testmode all coils fire. Right flipper does nothing.

    I have 73,6V on both flipper coils.
    Wires from leaf switch cabinet to backbox connector have continuity. Wire from backbox to coils have continuity.

    Left cabinet leaf switch has 73,6v.
    Right cabinet leaf switch has no power.

    All fuses are ok. Replaced some fuses to match the fuses like in the manual.

    I'm out of options how to tackle this issue.

    I can use DMM if explained in an easy to understand language

    Thanks in advance.
    Greetings from Belgium.

    #2 3 years ago

    Only thing it could be is a wire or a bad fuse. Check to see if the fuse for that flipper is blown

    #3 3 years ago

    Fuses are all good. Tested with DMM

    Wires from cabinet to connector in backbox are good and wires from backbox to coils are good.

    #4 3 years ago

    Flipper relay solder points could be bad, the contact points on the flipper relay itself could be bad.

    #5 3 years ago
    Quoted from Toine79:

    Fuses are all good. Tested with DMM
    Wires from cabinet to connector in backbox are good and wires from backbox to coils are good.

    Did you test them inside the game or did you pull them?

    #6 3 years ago
    Quoted from Jmckune:

    Did you test them inside the game or did you pull them?

    Pulled them out and tested with DMM on continuity.
    Is there a way I can test the relay on any way?

    #7 3 years ago

    Update on this thread.
    When I start a game relay is clicking. Everything works except both flippers. I have 74V on the coils.
    4.7V on the CPU.
    No broken wires and no broken traces on board.
    Changed 2 fuses to match it like mentioned in the manual.
    Reseated all the connectors.

    Connector 1J19 not very tight. Can this cause the problem with both flippers?
    I have no Voltage on flipper cabinet leafswitches.

    Will resolder those switches but continuity test is good.

    Anybody other options that I need to do?
    Thanks

    #8 3 years ago

    Do you by chance have the coils wired backwards? I’ll have to check what mine look like but if there are diodes on the coil itself, make sure the band is facing the ground wires and not the power wire.

    #9 3 years ago

    I replaced the coils based on pictures taken from the old coils.
    Will continue this weekend. Now on holiday

    #10 3 years ago

    Maybe you flipped them though? It’s easy to get it backwards and have it look the same simply by flipping the coil to the other direction. I remember when you first got it they were technically upside down since the lugs were on the same side as the coil stop. The 50v power wire is Blue/? Depending on the flipper side, the ground is the other color, make sure the band on the diode is not facing the blue wire. Here’s mine for example

    3A9A81C4-E819-44FB-B434-A29DFB36AEC0 (resized).jpeg3A9A81C4-E819-44FB-B434-A29DFB36AEC0 (resized).jpeg

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from Jmckune:

    make sure the band is facing the ground wires and not the power wire.

    Quoted from Jmckune:

    The 50v power wire is Blue/? Depending on the flipper side, the ground is the other color, make sure the band on the diode is not facing the blue wire.

    Sorry. Please don't take this personally. I don't bother posting much nowadays. Just a bystander for the most part. I do however feel compelled to post when the information provided is incorrect. This is to prevent other people from reading it and assuming it's correct and causing further damage.

    The banded end of the diode must always face the power wire NOT the ground wire.

    For System 11 games (and pre-fliptronic WPC games) the GRY-YEL and BLU-YEL wires are the power wires.

    The wire colors from the flipper solenoid to the cabinet switches BLU-GRY, BLU-VIO, BLK-YEL and BLK-BLU.

    The wire colors from the cabinet switches to the flipper ground relay are ORG-GRY and ORG-VIO.

    Please see the attached images drawn the manual.

    flipper_wire_colors.jpgflipper_wire_colors.jpgflipper_cabinet_wiring.jpgflipper_cabinet_wiring.jpgflipper_circuit_diagram.jpgflipper_circuit_diagram.jpg
    #12 3 years ago
    Quoted from DumbAss:

    Sorry. Please don't take this personally. I don't bother posting much nowadays. Just a bystander for the most part. I do however feel compelled to post when the information provided is incorrect. This is to prevent other people from reading it and assuming it's correct and causing further damage.
    The banded end of the diode must always face the power wire NOT the ground wire.
    For System 11 games (and pre-fliptronic WPC games) the GRY-YEL and BLU-YEL wires are the power wires.
    The wire colors from the flipper solenoid to the cabinet switches BLU-GRY, BLU-VIO, BLK-YEL and BLK-BLU.
    The wire colors from the cabinet switches to the flipper ground relay are ORG-GRY and ORG-VIO.
    Please see the attached images drawn the manual.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]


    I did get it backwards! Luckily haven’t done it backwards myself. Thanks for the correction!

    #13 3 years ago
    Quoted from Toine79:

    Is there a way I can test the relay on any way?

    You'd have to start the game and measure on points into and out of the relay. I'd have to look to see where the appropriate links would be. Most of the time as part of getting a new game in I reflow solder on all the header pins and replace any that are burnt, and as part of this I reflow the relay's because it's a relatively heavy item that has lots of stress put on it. They use a double pole relay to keep the flipper circuitry separate but still have one point to turn the flippers on and off.

    This is one area where Gottlieb got it right in solid state! Open frame relays so you can test easily, replace contacts/blades if needed, and clean the contacts!

    #14 3 years ago

    Right flipper working in test mode.
    Both coils working in attract mode with testwire.
    Left flipper does not work at all.

    DSC_2311 (resized).JPGDSC_2311 (resized).JPGDSC_2312 (resized).JPGDSC_2312 (resized).JPG
    #15 3 years ago

    Resoldered both coils and both cabinet switches. Reseated every connector in the backbox and now my left flipper is working in test mode and my right flipper is dead.
    Seems that I can only use 1 flipper.

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