(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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#2232 3 years ago

New club member with a new-to-me project. My second System 11 and first Taxi. I have the usual GI hacks and exploded special solenoid section on the CPU. There are a number of things I do not know about and will be sharing pics and asking questions. I have always loved this game and finally got a project for the right price.

#1 - Back of the main display PCB. The four blue jumper wires. Standard hack? Indicative of a problem? Bulletproofing?
20201011_164515 (resized).jpg20201011_164515 (resized).jpg

#2 - I would assume this will track back to a bad solenoid somewhere. The components were replaced but that doesn't mean the problem is gone. Hints on where to look? This seems to be a common thing on Sys 11 machines.
IMG_2380 (resized).JPGIMG_2380 (resized).JPG

#3 - Does anyone know how backed up @RobAnthony is? My interconnect is actually in great shape but for J6 and the touch-up is a little beyond my skill set. Oh, and then there's this gem.
IMG_2387 (resized).JPGIMG_2387 (resized).JPG

#4 - Normal? Not normal? The wiring at the knocker, that is.
20201011_171832 (resized).jpg20201011_171832 (resized).jpg

#5 - Last one for now. Between the flippers there appears to be two roll pins drilled into the bottom of the play field that don't seem to correspond to anything on the top. No clue what that is about.
20201011_172352 (resized).jpg20201011_172352 (resized).jpg

Thanks in advance!!

#2233 3 years ago

Also, does anyone do stencils or stickers??

#2238 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

My playfield looks phenomenal after putting on a hardtop but the cabinet still looks like a scolded dog.

Radcals. Like hardtop for your side art. I like it! I will probably also hardtop mine once I get it up and running. And the radcals seem to be a good idea as well. I've done stickers and stencils and have a love for neither.

Quoted from Jmckune:

If those components have been replaced, someone did not take the time to clean the burn off.

From the looks of it the old transistor went up in flames so I am certain they replaced it along with the other transistor and resistors. Otherwise they would look as toasty as the SIP up above it all.

Quoted from Jmckune:

.No No No No No.

Oh, I didn't even show you the best of it! Lots of wire to be replaced here...
IMG_2376 (resized).JPGIMG_2376 (resized).JPG
IMG_2385 (resized).JPGIMG_2385 (resized).JPG

Thanks for all the helpful info. I'll probably have more questions as I get through repairs on top of repairs.

#2249 3 years ago

I have what I believe to be an original translite. Does it go in a frame? Sandwiched in acrylic? No idea how it stays in...

#2253 3 years ago

So the translite sticks to the back of the glass? Sorry, never dealt with this before. Only other Sys 11 game I have had was an Earthshaker and it had a backglass.

1 month later
#2273 3 years ago

TIA - I have broken my wiring down to its separate sections because there was so much to repair/replace it got to be overwhelming to do it in place in the machine. I have completely redone the transformer to backbox sections and am now fixing the interconnect to backbox GI and flashers. Specifically the run from 2J7 to the relay on the insert panel. I have the wires to the bulbs no problem, but I know at least two wires go to the relay and then wires go from the relay to bulbs? Not positive since it was so hacked up what is supposed to go where. Any knowledge is helpful, pictures are better.

Shawn

#2275 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Here are a couple of pics of those areas taken before my game was torn down, hope they help
[quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect. The shot of 2J7 confirms what is on the schematic. I dont suppose you know which pair of brown and green wires is going into the relay and which ones are going out? (One pair has come in from the interconnect board and the other pair are going out to one or more flashers, I assume.) The plugged pair on the left of the board are intact so there is no worry there.

Thanks for the pics!!

#2277 3 years ago

First section is rebuilt from the transformer on out. Everything was stripped back to good wire or replaced wholesale and then crimped on either AMP mate n lok or Molex .084 fittings for good amperage capacity. So I went from this...
IMG_2405 (resized).JPGIMG_2405 (resized).JPG

To this!
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And from this...
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To this.
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IMG_2415 (resized).JPGIMG_2415 (resized).JPG

You get the idea.
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IMG_2417 (resized).JPGIMG_2417 (resized).JPG
IMG_2419 (resized).JPGIMG_2419 (resized).JPG

I modified the interconnect board as per Pinwiki where all of the two GI leads are connected. Thats why that plug does not have the extra loops. Hopefully it will make for a nice even spread of power that lasts a good long time.

IMG_2418 (resized).JPGIMG_2418 (resized).JPG
#2281 3 years ago

On to the playfield wiring. Started with the GI.
Before...
IMG_2439 (resized).JPGIMG_2439 (resized).JPG
And after.
IMG_2445 (resized).JPGIMG_2445 (resized).JPG

Not sure what this is or why it is this way but I am certain I will figure it out and make it right.
IMG_2442 (resized).JPGIMG_2442 (resized).JPG

So I start reviewing the excellent CFH guides to freshen my memory. I've been doing nothing but Bally and Stern since I sold off the Earthshaker years ago. I already know several coils are fried. And several have cut wires. Then it hits me. Every coil on the play field has a diode on it. Every. Last. One. Who are these people...

#2282 3 years ago

So as it turns out, this plug is for special solenoid switches. Its 1J18 at the top right of the CPU. I have the positions of the white, orange/black and orange/brown. I need to know what position the orange/green should be in. The schematic is not like the plug. On the schematic it shows position six to be the key but the key is at position one and the white wire is at six. Help?

IMG_2441 (resized).JPGIMG_2441 (resized).JPG
#2284 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Here you go. Your wiring is coming along great!
[quoted image]

Thanks! That's perfect. The wiring is just about all wrapped up. Today I am cleaning the heck out of the underside of the play field. I doubt some of those inserts have ever been cleaned. A little alcohol and a lot of Mean Green go a long ways. The red cups in the eject holes are actually translucent and red again! Next I will be making a count of the dead/crispy/wrong solenoids. If Marco is having a black Friday special I am in.

1 week later
#2290 3 years ago

Continuing saga of repair... So as I am replacing pop bumper coils I decide I should examine the topside as well. No surprise we need some wholesale replacement. The question I have is this. Are the bumper bodies actually held down by wood screws? Seriously! I like the Bally system where there is a threaded plate under the play field that receives machine threaded screws that hold the whole assembly down. Did B/W just throw that away? And if so, what is the proper screw? Because I have 3 different pairs of screws holding down my 3 pop bumpers. Big ol' drywall screws, a short pair of round top phillips head wood screws and a pair of flat topped flat head screws. Yikes!!

IMG_2467 (resized).JPGIMG_2467 (resized).JPG
2 weeks later
#2319 3 years ago

So after a ton of rewiring and a LOT of troubleshooting I have everything on the playfield working correctly and the sounds are great. (To get the lower pop working I had to replace everything - both transistors and the 7402 IC.) So what's left besides making it pretty?

Cabinet bell - Can't find anything in the book as far as schematics. I ground the transistor and get nothing. The wiring on it looks sketchy at best. Any chance one of you folks have found or made a schematic or at least taken a decent pic so I can get a clue?

Displays - I have no player three and in player one it looks like several digits trying to display in the same place. And players 1,2 and 4 are all missing the 2nd to last number. Any ideas? I wouldn't even know where to start and with this machine anything is possible as well as likely!

Thanks for any help!
Shawn

#2320 3 years ago

Here's a pic of my bell setup. Obviously something disconnected here.
IMG_2508 (resized).JPGIMG_2508 (resized).JPG

#2322 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

This should help:

That will definitely help. (My search skills are questionable, my laziness is not.)

Here's what the displays are doing...

#2324 3 years ago

Bell works. Shockingly easy when you can see what needs to be done. Thanks!

#2327 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Great News. was it the Yellow wire?

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2 weeks later
#2372 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

.well, besides the spinout I'm going to be fighting until I'm dead.

I got the red spring which helped a lot and then replaced the sleeve. That made it much worse. The plunger hardly moves through it. I went through my pile o' plungers and found one that traveled through it easily. But its a 1/4" shorter and hardly gets the ball TO the spinout much less around it. Went back to the original plunger and coated it with dry film silicone. That helped a ton and I can now plunge it to four spins. The biggest problem I can see at this point is that the plunger is hitting well above the center of the ball. I lifted the play field slightly with shims and it shot like nobody's business. Sadly it was just enough that the lockbar won't lock down. I'll mess with it more after I get my somewhere-in-the-mail LED display to replace my gassed out one.

#2386 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

for now I'm playing with no art in the back box... the glare!

I'm also waiting for a new piece of glass being done locally. For now the translite sits in there fine with a small piece of tape on either side to hold the middle back. Works great.

#2388 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Yeah I was thinking about doing the same in the interim. No idea how quickly these guys work. Didn't ask a price, either, so here's hoping its not a fortune. It shouldn't be..

They're charging me like 80 and change for the backglass and a 3" by 5" piece of real mirror. Should be in on the 19th. There is no where here that can do tempered glass. It gets done in San Antonio and when they have enough orders they make it and bring it down.

#2390 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Wow! No one there does tempered glass? Wonder if the place i called is doing the same thing. I just assumed they'd do it in house.

Takes a special oven.

3 weeks later
#2404 3 years ago

Mine was missing and I replaced it with the spring from a Bally coin door. The one that's on the coin lockout coil. Seemed like a good fit.

9 months later
#2691 2 years ago

Nevermind. Idiot question!

Shawn

1 week later
#2692 2 years ago

Okay guys, trying to get her to 100%. Replaced the right flipper coil, installed new blue ramp and replaced more dead flashers. The entire right side and top GI is dead and I have traced it to a relay board, Sol. 11 GI. There is a diagram of it on page 45 of the manual. It has W1 and W2. W2 is a crispy critter and needs replacing. I would guess there was a short in the GI at some point? The board looks good but I need to replace W2. Looks similar to a resistor with a single black band. Any ideas out there? Done a lot of board work but this is new to me. Thanks in advance -

Shawn

IMG_2734 (resized).JPGIMG_2734 (resized).JPG
#2693 2 years ago

Aaaaaand it seems that W1 and W2 are just zero ohm resistors. So a piece of wire should do the trick. (Jumper) The trick of course is being ready to switch it off quick if the short is still in the system.

#2694 2 years ago

Here's a look at the ramp that was way past its expiration date...

The old red one had a thin strip of metal in it for reinforcement, maybe?

IMG_2731 (resized).JPGIMG_2731 (resized).JPGIMG_2732 (resized).JPGIMG_2732 (resized).JPG
#2699 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjusting the ball trajectory (and replacing the shooter rubber and silver spring) got me easily 10 to 14 spins!

Disappointed, but motivated. The ramp looks great but I am lucky to get 3 spins so far. Got the red spring and a good shooter tip. The crappy old ramp gave me 5-6 spins so I have some adjusting to do! Also, it is wonderful to have all the GI back!

Shawn

3 weeks later
#2735 2 years ago

After getting a ton of play at the Houston arcade show I finally got around to fixing almost everything. I installed the new blue spinout ramp. Love it and it looks great! While I had the playfield out I fixed the GI problem I covered earlier. Sure looks better with the right side and the top lamps all working. Next I did a deep dive on the switch for the lower pop bumper. It has always been very touchy and problematic. Either it won't work or its sporadic. Very hard to get the adjustment right, I figured. Close inspection showed me that the dang switch spoon was NOT centered on the pop but was actually off by 3/16" or so. Its a wonder it ever worked at all since the ball had to completely deflect the ring at just the right angle to get the switch to even close. Came that way from the factory! I repositioned the switch so the spoon is now centered and it works like a champ. Also on the list was the shooter since installing the new ramp made for a terrible shot. A few adjustments were made and I disassembled and cleaned the rod. Also added a little dry silicone to the rod. I can now go a full round on the skill shot past 100k. The only "problem" I have left is the right flipper. I can rarely complete the left ramp if I hit it just right. The ramp is new and I have adjusted the flipper but it still doesn't seem to travel quite as far as the left flipper does. New coil and nylon tube also. Any suggestions?

#2739 2 years ago

There is a small relay board that all the GI passes through near the top of the playfield. Both sides pass through it separately and that is where my problem was. It has a two-sided relay that allows the game to blink the GI like when you drain or ring the bell. Check there if everything else looks good.

Shawn

3 months later
#2913 1 year ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I'd go with that option any day

I did. VERY pleased with it!!

2 weeks later
#2946 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Unfortunately my only issue with Taxi is that the red shooter spring is still not strong enough to reach the spinout 100k. Most of the time a full plunge lands on the free passenger award. I need to pull apart the shooter housing and try to align the rod more center with the ball.

After trying all of the recommendations here and still not getting a good launch, I completely disassembled the shooter and cleaned thoroughly with 94% alcohol, inside and out. I then coated with dry silicone spray and reassembled. Now a full plunge will get me 75K with an occasional 100. Its actually a skill shot again.

4 months later
#3060 1 year ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

Will be putting it next to fish tales eventually.

EBD, Walking Dead and Taxi are all part of my current line up. Choices approved!

3 months later
#3150 1 year ago

Mine had what I assumed to be original mirror in plastic behind a translight so it was all scratched to heck and back. I had a local glass shop cut me a real thin glass one. Looks much better.

Shawn

1 month later
#3214 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

As an Engineer, I like dealing with a consistent problem instead of a random problem..

You're in the wrong hobby!! LOL

3 weeks later
#3287 1 year ago

Mine is being played to death at TPF and suddenly the drops will not reset. Plugs are good, fuses are good. Any ideas what to check?

#3292 1 year ago

Gotcha. Will likely check when I get back home. No time to do that kind of thing on a busy show floor.

#3296 1 year ago

So typical pinball. Went back and the game was off. Turned it on and it wouldn’t start a game. Unplugged / replugged the coin door and went through all the tests. All were fine. Game works 100% again. If the same thing happens again it’s a heat/time problem. We shall see.

3 weeks later
#3316 11 months ago

I have the boards from Pinsider Dumbass and they look and work great. (Bought them bare and populated them myself. I'm a DIY kinda guy.)

image0 (resized).jpegimage0 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpegimage1 (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#3353 8 months ago

Best bet would be to call Steve at PBR if you haven't already. Might be a jury rig job. Just a small coil and a stiff wire.

#3361 8 months ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I think you're thinking of the other side of the top arch. This part is just a completely passive one way gate to prevent the ball from going back into the upper spin out kicker.
Steve had the wire but not the gate body.

Yup, I was.

Quoted from Sackmonkey:

I'm talking about keeping my ball from getting stuck left of the "C" in the CAB area behind Carry Passengers.

I too have had that issue in the past. The ball would get stuck after being ejected from the spinout and it would require one heck of a shake to get it loose again. Cleaned up the area and leveled with the play field and it seemed to resolve itself.

#3376 8 months ago
Quoted from Sackmonkey:

OK, so I tore my playfield apart last night to take a closer look. Here you can see where the ball likes to get stuck.
[quoted image]

Well, what do you know??? Same problem!
IMG_3007 (resized).JPGIMG_3007 (resized).JPG

Fixed the rail and did a couple of other things that I had been putting off. Look at my skill shot now...

Shawn

#3380 8 months ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Mk1Modo... your skill shot ramp rotations are incredible. I'm lucky to get 2-3
Any tips?

Just everything that was previously discussed here... The red spring, bending/straightening the play field hangers so the plunger is centered on the ball, making sure everything on the ramp and ball guide is tight. After all that the biggest boost was when I realized the ball was not resting on the guides of the shooter gauge, but rather just in front of it. As it is, when the ball ejects into the shooter lane I have to tap it with the plunger and hold the plunger back while the ball rolls back to where it should be. Then I can give it a full plunge and get everything out of the shooter rod. Otherwise its just wasted energy. If my explanation is not clear enough I can video it.

Shawn

4 months later
#3442 4 months ago
Quoted from gutz:

believing it “yellowed” to this color

Sun, nicotine/tar and time.

3 months later
#3661 2 days ago

I love learning new things and taking a game to a show can teach one a lot! I have been doing everything recommended to get a better launch and have the flippers where one can consistently make both ramp shots. The left has been great since acquiring the game but the right has always been less than stellar. So at the Texas Pinball Festival in the midst of over 750 plays for the weekend, the right flipper finally gave up and just quit firing properly. It would barely move and with zero oompf. After ensuring it was not a mechanical problem I found the coil to be scorching. I quickly bought a backup and replaced it and then found no voltage at the coil. (Which should have been the FIRST thing I looked at. Turns out the fuse had blown. (I am a classic Bally guy and tend to forget that Taxi has separate fuses for each flipper. I pulled the fuse and saw not only that it was blown but also quite corroded. I guess it was that way when I bought the game and never thought to change it. Cleaned up the fuse holder and installed new and now the flipper is quite snappy. Makes the ramp shot everytime. And the old flipper coil is fine. I now have a spare. Coil power passes through the fuses and if they are less than clean and tight you are dropping voltage and making problems. Lesson learned.

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