(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,684 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by token84
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders

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  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mad_dog_coin_op.
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#1714 4 years ago

Hey Pinsiders, I have a Taxi that needs a new home. Any interest out there? I would keep it but only have so much room. Trying to get down to 8 pins and 8 arcades. Anything more can’t be set up and enjoyed. I’m sure several of you know my pain.

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2 months later
#1834 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Here is the back of the board[quoted image]

Those are some really bad solder joints. Looks like one of them isn't making contact at all. Do you have the skills to fix it?

1 week later
#1859 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Ones like this the one between the green and white insert[quoted image]

Put an old post rubber on that post and give a squeeze with the vice grips while you use the nut driver on the other side. That way you won’t damage anything.

1 month later
#1958 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I got back to playing my Taxi again finally after finally putting it back together. I get such a varying behaviour from the from the plunger it really is annoying me. I spent a lot of time getting it working really well (being able to wrap around the bowl shot so it is really a skill shot), only to find it could barely go around 3-4 times. After playing it for a while it noticeably changed for the better and then got worse again after that. I tried making some alignment changes again and got things working better but the behaviour is constantly drifting.
Is this just the nature of the beast? This is the only machine I have that I have really ever had to give thought to making the plunger work.

Check hangers where the playfield locks in under the lock bar. Over time these get stretched out and sag. A lot of the times on Taxi the spinout shot goes to crap and nobody knows why. It is because these brackets sag lowering the front of the playfield beyond what can be compensated for by the shooter assembly. Fix that and things should work for you. The shooter tip has to be centered for maximum rotations. Anyone adding shims or coins on the shooter assembly has sagging hangers.

#1960 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

You are absolutely correct and I have spent quite a bit of time adjusting them already. They were too low when I started. I also installed a new plunger housing when I discovered the original was angled to the right a bit. The new one is straight. I have the plunger centered in the middle of the ball. I keep thinking it should hit slightly low to lift it a bit or maybe a little high to help it spin rather than skid forward.

Obvious question but do you have the correct spring? Another thing to check is the shooter apron. Make sure that is isn't bent oddly. After all the ball rests on it. The last thing is the shooter tip. Titan tips are a little soft for Taxi. Might have to go old school rubber.

#1962 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

How do you fix the hangers?

Take them off and body hammer them back to shape. All angles should be 90 degrees. Add washers to bottom if you need more lift when you put it back together.

#1964 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I have every spring choice from Marcos. Right now I am using the second softest one. You are right about the tip, I am using Titan. I will have to see if I have any older ones.
Just joking but maybe a pool cue tip right on the metal shaft would work.

I believe Taxi uses the red spring which is the strongest.

#1970 3 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

What's people's opinion on pop number wear.
Leave it alone, as it's now in a home environment. Or add some mylar rings so it doesn't get any worse?
[quoted image]

There used to be a decal kit available for the Taxi pop bumper area that had the playfield art printed on them. It covered up the problem area nicely. Maybe somebody still has a set or knows a source for them.

3 weeks later
#2025 3 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Picts of my Taxi "W" logo[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice Taxi. I do the logo sand paper trick also. Works great.

#2044 3 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Will do! Painting the cab is next, but I have to wait for the humidity to go down. I’m in the southeast so that may take awhile...
In the meantime I’ll be working on the new cabinet door.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What color are you going to paint the cabinet? Black would normally be a good choice but Radcals are on the translucent side. I'm fearful the black would show through. You might have to go yellow and paint the areas that are suppose to be back separately. I would recommend doing it an oil based paint. Decals stick way better on oil based paint in my opinion. I no longer have my Taxi but plan to put Radcals on my BOP so I'm anxious for an update on your project.

#2053 3 years ago
Quoted from Barr993:

I just finished my Taxi paint and decals and struggled with HVLP and colors along the way so maybe my story will help:
I backed into HVLP due to Vid's cabinet guide thread recommending Kilz oil based primer but I couldn't roll that well so went to HVLP and thinned the primer with naphtha (per Vid) 4 : 1 to get it to flow which worked out well.
For color, started with the Behr 3300 color recomendation in this thread and elsewhere. Took the color code to Home Depot but they couldn't decipher it. Went back with a piece of the new decals to scan and mix. Got home and knew I'd have trouble with spraying because the 3300 was so thick. Thinned out with water to 20% which is twice the recommended amount, still too thick, tried to spray with bad results and it was tacky after days. The excess water was probably affecting the chemical reaction.
Then went to Sherwin Williams for oil based cabinet paint and HVLP recommendation. They had no one with HVLP experience but scanned the decal and mixed the paint which is only available in gloss. Sprayed the cab (again 4 : 1 naphtha), went on good but the color was not right. Apparently the scanner was picking up mostly yellow and not the red which is very fine specs on the decals. Back to the store, scan and mix, color didn't look right in the store so the rep custom mixed another adding more red. It turned out to be a close match and complimentary to decals.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That does look good but those are just regular decals correct? Is that why you didn't fully paint the sides. Regular decals cover 100%.

2 months later
#2227 3 years ago
Quoted from andre060:

Anyone else have trouble with the shooter lane / skill shot after a CPR playfield swap? Everything else I was able to adjust, but having a real hard time getting the shooter to make a hard shot up the skill shot. It looks like the CPR shooter groove is not nearly as deep as the original, and I'm thinking of sanding it down. Am I crazy?

I had the same problem when I did my CPR Elvira swap. It took me forever to dial it in. Take a slow motion video to see what is giving you the problem. It could be several things but the video will you tell you what to address.

#2242 3 years ago
Quoted from pmurphe:

I am in the midst of a taxi playfield swap. Can someone post a picture of the setup (rubbers, posts, lights) underneath the Marilyn/Lola drop target plastic?
Do the rubbers go around the end posts (that also have rubber on them (?) ) as the mini playfield diagram shows? I see other pictures that do not have them go around the end posts.
Also there is a screw hole on the old playfield (and a new playfield dimple) and I can't figure out what goes there. I don't think anything was there when I broke it down, who knows. See picture. Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The black arrow is a ramp anchor point.

#2248 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I have the cpr backglass. I got it purely so the collar matched the cuffs as I only had a Lola translite but a Marylin playfield.
It’s not the best with its soft focus appearance and washed out colours and the mirroring isn’t great. But that said it’s better than nothing and you’d only really notice the difference if you had a original side by side. If your translite is trashed, go for it or try and source a translite. Not sure how easy that is.

I bought a NOS one from the Pinball Resource a couple years ago for $40. At the time they had a stack of them.

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