Add me to please. Been playing the heck out of Taxi for the last week or so. I think it's the coolest pin ever, but I must admit I haven't played most of the more modern, expensive ones. Among the many things I have learned about playing Taxi, this one seems to stand out to me. "Quite often there is hell to pay for nailing Marilyn". Anybody else come to that conclusion?

How is the alignment of the traffic light bulbs in the upper right hand corner of the backglass? If they are off about the same amount as the meter display, I would try to adjust the back lighting board (if that is what it's called) higher. I was able to get mine closer that way, but to make it perfect, I would have to elongate some of the holes in the hardware that latches it shut and the hinge side too.

Do you want a museum piece or are you like me and want to play pinball? I would go with the cheaper, in fact the original PF would have to be pretty bad for me to change it at all. To each his own and best of luck.

I got a Taxi question. When I go down to switch mine on, more often then not, I have to switch it off right away because it will do a number of different things.

A. ring the bell and have goofy stuff on the display or

B. have a nasty hum noise come from the speaker I presume or

C. sometimes the background music isn't playing for the first ball. The call outs will be there. The music is there for the 2nd and 3rd.

Now all I have to do to not have these problems is click the toggle switch 2 times instead of just 1. I don't recall any of those quirks being there if you do the double click. Anybody have similar issues?

I have done what you are talking about muzikman. You are right about that. I was trying to make your point in this thread. http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-marilyn-vs-lola It would be great if more people registered their serial numbers and filled in the part whether it is a Marilyn or a Lola. That age old question could be answered accurately and once and for all. It is going to get more difficult now with many being restored with reproduction Marilyn PF and BG.

Yo, Taxi...New personal high score. Long game which included lighting Million twice and getting both of them. 5,029,560 That is the only time I can ever remember getting the million twice. Could't light jackpot on that game even once.

I was just putting up my best effort, but fell short. Had my personal best tonight @ 6,999,930. Yep, I have yet to crack 7 mil.
nice job on the diagosis Monkeygrass. You have good taste in games.

Is there supposed to be a plastic over this crescent shaped area? Mine looks just like your pic. no plastic there.

Is the stud part 8-32 threads? this one sounds close. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4645-4

I think the one you want is actually 1 13/16" which would even be tougher to find then 1 3/4". This one Marco has, if it is a hair or 2 long, could be shortened with a grinder to 1.815 or so

Your right. I didn't see that. Well you are just going to have to get creative if nothing else works out. If you get a 1 3/4" with threaded holes on both ends, you could put a stud (bolt with its head cut off) in one end. High strength lock tite it in. (your favorite thing). Otherwise grind the one you got flat on the broken end, center drill, tap, add stud. Good luck

Nate, that micro switch is under the cab flipper switch. (at least it was on my Taxi) So it can be basically ignored and just replace the cab flipper switch.

The switch is a likely culprit as mentioned, but I had a VERY similar issue with my Banzai run. Ball would go in ball cannon, sometimes work, sometimes not. Replaced switch, same thing. The problem turned out to be connector J8 on the MPU. It had a little visual blue corrosion on it, presumably from battery corrosion, because they (batteries) are located above this connector. There was no other corrosion on the board, but a drip must have found that connector.
After re-pinning the connector, the problem was gone. I have since seen trace amounts of corrosion on this connector in other system 11 games. Great place to look for problems such as yours.

11630's are very sufficient on a Taxi. Check the condition of the EOS switches and cab switches too. Did they put new flipper bushings in too? a little wear in them can rob a lot of power. EOS gap is very important. I like between 1/16" and 1/8" on a system 11. I would like to see closeup pics of the rebuilt flipper mechs under the PF if you feel like taking them and posting.

As far as going to the 11629 coil here, I would avoid it until all other things are checked out.

This is a cut and paste from another thread......One day this is going to help somebody.

Something to check----the Molex plug on 1J8 on the MPU. I have had to re-pin quite a few of them due to corrosion. It is located on the bottom of the MPU below the battery holder. All it takes over the years is some alkaline dust to have settled on it and the humidity will do the rest. (A theory that I have formulated) It can most certainly be the cause of PF switches not working. ANY sign of green or white corrosion or anything else is a trigger for me to re-pin it these days on a system 11.
If it happens to be an issue and you go to re-pin it , look for clean, fresh wire under the insulation. Somewhat corroded wire will have your new re-pin fail probably within a year...been there, done that.

I think so too. If so, There is a very good chance that is your problem.

Me too..Well if that was corrosion, your work was not in vain though. It needed doing, and I would check surrounding connectors and interconnect board connectors down there.

How about Pinbot drops and switch letter B? Is it still holding up or is the problem intermittent now?

My generic answer to this is-- Weird startup issues can be caused by a bad C-30 capacitor on the MPU of a system 11. I have had quite a few that a new C-30 has fixed. Your issues really sound like this could be it.