(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,684 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by token84
  • Topic is favorited by 147 Pinsiders

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  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider desertT1.
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#1079 7 years ago

I'm working on a Taxi I just got. I'm down to the smaller stuff after putting the topside parts back on. The current issue is the display. The top row works great, the bottom row isn't displaying anything. Totally dark. Is there any way to test if it works at all? Reading through the pinwiki, all it seems to talk about is if everything is affected by a power supply issue. To me it seems that power is going in fine, but might only be going to the top display.

#1081 7 years ago
Quoted from Hougie:

I am/was having display issues (not working at all to sometimes partially working) and replacing the ribbon cable mostly fixed my issue. I still have two flaky segments but I plan to replace the header pins. I am pretty sure that will take care of mine.

Cool, I will check out those cables/connectors and see if anything looks off.

#1082 7 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Cool, I will check out those cables/connectors and see if anything looks off.

Data cables look good. One goes to the fare display and that works fine. Wiggling the large one didn't do anything and it looks fine. I would do a continuity check on it if my DMM hadn't died this weekend.

#1085 7 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

Remove the displays and see if all of the soldered feet are still intact on the glass.

I had pulled that board and look at the display pins. Nothing looked like a bad connection, but I will pull that out again today, reflow, and see if that helps. If that doesn't work I'm willing to accept that the bottom display is done for.

#1088 7 years ago

One of my last issues on this project. Can somebody take a pic of how this connector should be wired? Thanks.

It's the backbox GI, just in case.

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#1090 7 years ago

Thanks a ton, I'll be fixing that tomorrow for sure. Then the last thing(s) are to find out why the left flipper died and why the right one is sometimes weak. Almost done!

#1091 7 years ago

So close. I'm really puzzled by this. The translite is not lining up with the jackpot display and the traffic lights in the top right. I can see the copyright statement in the bottom left, and it's just above the lower trim. Is that proper?

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#1095 7 years ago
Quoted from EdisonArcade:

I agree with supermatt. I had the same problem and messing with the hinge was one of the fixes.

But might not be the only fix? My hinges are tight against the wall of the head. There are 4 slots on the hinge side that holds on the light box, however there are also 2 screws locking things in place. I don't think those have ever moved.

4 weeks later
#1100 7 years ago

I'm seeing a delay at times from the Drac catapult. With the glass off, I can click the switch and it will fire ever time. Same thing if I place a ball in there. During the game, on occasion, a ball will go in Drac, and will not kick it out in a timely manner. It almost seems like it goes to ball search and gives credit for a ramp shot instead of Drac. A "problem" when there is a ball locked and you get multiball instead of credit for Drac. The worst is in multiball and you lock into 1, and then trying for 2 you hit it close to the time running out. I've had it happen where I don't get credit a few times now.

Unsure of ROMs as I have it on route and it's a pretty recent pickup for me. The ball seats in the catapult cup every time and I know the switch is getting hit.

#1104 7 years ago
Quoted from supermatt:

I had the same problem before. I replaced the switch and it's been perfect ever since.

Quoted from dozer1:

The switch is a likely culprit as mentioned, but I had a VERY similar issue with my Banzai run. Ball would go in ball cannon, sometimes work, sometimes not. Replaced switch, same thing. The problem turned out to be connector J8 on the MPU. It had a little visual blue corrosion on it, presumably from battery corrosion, because they (batteries) are located above this connector. There was no other corrosion on the board, but a drip must have found that connector.
After re-pinning the connector, the problem was gone. I have since seen trace amounts of corrosion on this connector in other system 11 games. Great place to look for problems such as yours.

Will look into both of these, thanks.

3 weeks later
#1126 7 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

You need to adjust that switch to accommodate your ball... not pressure from a finger

The ball would trigger it in attract mode. It actually completely stopped working middle of last week so I went to the local electronics place. They had a Cherry E21, but it had a flat tab. I bent it using the other one as a guide and after swapping it out everything is working great.

5 months later
#1295 6 years ago

F4 blew on the power supply board. Replacing that got some strange resets, so I did a cap kit. Now it's playing fine, but F4 is pretty warm. Is that normal?

Also, since doing the new fuse and caps there are a few inserts that pulse at different rates. Lock, drac, carry passengers, and shoot again. All 4 screws are there and tight on the power board and all connectors seem just fine. Any guesses?

8 months later
#1404 6 years ago

My ringer/bell hasn't worked since I got the game. Is there something specific I should be looking for? I'll take it apart once this tournament I'm hosting is over, but from the last time I was in there a visual inspection didn't show anything obvious like a broken wire or hammer fallen off the coil.

#1407 6 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Without meaning to insult your intelligence, you can disable the knocker in the settings. It isn’t disabled is it??

I actually stumbled over that setting when working on some other stuff and it stuck out in my mind. Confirmed last night that it is set to on. Didn't get a chance last night to poke around and confirm power at the coil or look in the head where the wires connect to the board. Just hoping that it's not a transistor, as removing System 11 boards isn't the most fun thing to do during a repair. Not the worst, but still not exactly fun. Note to self. Make sure transistors are in the tool box next time at the location.

6 months later
4 months later
#1474 5 years ago

My bell has never worked since the day I got the game. I've looked at it a few times, but no progress.

#1476 5 years ago
Quoted from jmountjoy111:

Mine didn’t work either. I did all kinds of trouble shooting to find the culprit and then.... I took a file and cleaned the switched and it worked perfectly. Sometimes I’m a real dummy

Which switch might that have been?

#1478 5 years ago

Cool. I’ll give it a go and see what happens. This location was startled when the Ghostbusters scream was coded in, so we will see how well a working bell goes over.

5 months later
#1514 4 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Welp... fried some transistors on my Aux driver board today. Anyone have a schematic showing what components these larger transistors supply?
Im gonna try to toss new parts in it and see what happens. But I may eventually go with the Xpin AUX board that has upgraded MOSFET tech for the occasional faults that plague the old original boards.
If anyone is interested in buying the original AUX board (D-12247-566) please PM me.[quoted image]

For future reference, the who manual is available as a pdf on ipdb.org. It's a great resource and has pretty much every non-Gottlieb I've ever looked for.

1 week later
#1519 4 years ago

I got a new left ramp from Starship Fantasy a few months ago.

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