I'm finishing up a hardtop and at the point of putting plastics on. My Taxi had a mix of rubber, nylon, and metal lock nuts. I looked through everyone's pics here and have seen a mix of all in varying spots.

Is there a right way of certain nuts in certain positions?

I tried Rustoleum clear twice and ended up with cracking/crazing on the inserts both times. Ended up sanding the clear off then wet sanding up to 3000 and Novus 3,2,1. Turned out pretty good.

I just finished my Taxi paint and decals and struggled with HVLP and colors along the way so maybe my story will help:

I backed into HVLP due to Vid's cabinet guide thread recommending Kilz oil based primer but I couldn't roll that well so went to HVLP and thinned the primer with naphtha (per Vid) 4 : 1 to get it to flow which worked out well.

For color, started with the Behr 3300 color recomendation in this thread and elsewhere. Took the color code to Home Depot but they couldn't decipher it. Went back with a piece of the new decals to scan and mix. Got home and knew I'd have trouble with spraying because the 3300 was so thick. Thinned out with water to 20% which is twice the recommended amount, still too thick, tried to spray with bad results and it was tacky after days. The excess water was probably affecting the chemical reaction.

Then went to Sherwin Williams for oil based cabinet paint and HVLP recommendation. They had no one with HVLP experience but scanned the decal and mixed the paint which is only available in gloss. Sprayed the cab (again 4 : 1 naphtha), went on good but the color was not right. Apparently the scanner was picking up mostly yellow and not the red which is very fine specs on the decals. Back to the store, scan and mix, color didn't look right in the store so the rep custom mixed another adding more red. It turned out to be a close match and complimentary to decals.

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Thanks! Lots of sand, spray, epoxy, bondo, sand, spray, rinse and repeat. That is the gloss of the paint, no clear.

1 qt of each should be good. I used 2 of each but that was due to my issues.

Btw this was with the $10 Harbor Freight gun that has a 1.4 tip.

Kerry, sweet paint work! The 1500 and clear is awesome.

This was my 1st Sys 11 and it was beat up on the back due to only having the button glides so I added the WPC style skids to protect it in the future. Poplar wood.

I did decals. Really only needed to paint a little at the edges for the correct decal trim back but went a little further.

Bellagio is doing Radcals

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Toine79 about the taxi plastic, I see your shooter wire form has two tabs, are they both not drilled/tapped? My taxi is screwed to these 2 tabs but I also have a screw hole in the wood rail so I'm not sure what was original.

Were the different mounting arrangements a change in production or a mod?

My as-found tear down:

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The one that's mounted on the ends: does the wireform have tabs to mount the taxi and are they drilled/tapped?

Yes, normally closed, open for Gorbie and Jackpot shots.

Translite mirror question: my Taxi came with the mirror double side taped to the gray foam on the light board but there were also signs of old double sided tape to the translite.

Which method is correct?

KSUWildcatFan

Make sure:
- you have the red spring
- cabinet is level side-to-side and not twisting due to legs at different heights
- shooter is adjusted to hit ball dead center
- shooter sleeve is in good condition
- shooter tip is in good condition and not mushroomed
- if your limo is screwed to the shooter lane wireform, be sure the screws are not protruding into the ball path
- use a regular rubber shooter tip and make sure it fits tight to the rod tip. Titan has too much give and soaks up energy.

I had all the above issues except for the correct spring...now get all the way around and back up to 10.

Definitely crispy. Q75 is left bumper and Q77 lower bumper, I'd look for something common there. Test both transistors and R104. The resistors R96-98 look like they need to be reflowed. Looks like there may be a trace on the back of the board that saw some heat too.

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I had pretty much the same issue, got a new relay board here and transferred everything over:

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/electronics/boards/williams/5768-12243-00.html

Will grab a pic tomorrow if someone doesn't have it by then

My paint journey here;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2020-taxi-hardtop-cabinet-repair-general-rehab-ffwd#post-5945746
Spoiler: I tried two Rustoleums that didn't work. Maybe there is a closer color through other manufacturers like Montana or MTN.