In a correct setup should the player be able to hit the lowest pinbot drop target with a properly timed left flipper shot? Seems like there is no way to hit that target except random luck because the right slingshot is in the way and the target is just out of reach.

My machine was also missing the traffic light plastic. I decided to make my own, I moved it so it sits almost above the "Jackpot" playfield light, and also illuminated it with three LED's. The LED's are connected to the traffic light on the upper right side of the back glass, so they cycle periodically like an actual traffic light.

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My main display has some digits gassed out and flicker horribly due to old age. The display needs to be replaced. The "meter bonus" display however is crisp, perfect and does not need to be replaced. That being said, I saw this for sale:

https://ksarcade.net/new-used-pinball-boards-parts/rottendog-products/displays/rottendog-led-display-dis240-red-blue-orange.html

Its an led replacement for system 11 games, looks identical to the one in taxi but the listing does not say that it is compatible with taxi. I assume it is because the "meter bonus" display is not included.

So, can I use this display in my taxi, with a low voltage LED replacement for the primary display and a high voltage glass/gas tube display for the "meter bonus" display?

The reason I ask is that this kit is $100 cheaper than the ones that comes with the "meter bonus" display, and also have 3 colors to choose from. I never looked but is the "meter bonus" display powered from the main display board or does it have its own power feed from the power supply?

If this won't work, then does anyone know of anywhere to purchase (used or new) just the main display (led or traditional) without the "meter bonus" display?

Is uncollected jackpot value retained from game to game until it's collected (like in pinbot)? I never noticed until just recently that on attract mode the diisplayed jackpot value on my machine was 1.6million. I'm pretty sure I set the starting value at 500,000.

If this is the case is there a way to disable jackpot carry over?

But does it retain its value from game to game if not collected?

Thanks for clarifying.

Yes, I did this on mine. I used a 5 inch red led strip with adhesive back and put it on the inside of the spinout bowl along the upper rim where the ball can't hit it. It's on the player side of the bowl so it can't be seen but it illuminates the entire bowl bright red and looks great.

This may have already been addressed but I noticed on my Taxi when a ball is shot hard directly into the Santa kickout hole, a lot of the time (more than half), it bounces right back out. What causes this and is there a way to minimize this from happening? I assume part of the problem is the wood on the front edge of the kickout hole is worn down and has less vertical height to prevent the ball from rolling back out. Has anyone experienced this problem or found a fix for it?

I like the Rick Sanchez head laying next to the vintage boombox in your photo. That is one of my favorite shows haha.

Looks great! That's a hard top install? Roughly how many hours did you put into the whole project from disassembly, preparation, install, and rebuild of the playfield?

Very nice! when you say a full repaint and decals what do you mean? I've seen adhesive playfield decals that can be placed to touch up worn areas, but did you paint some areas by hand and place decals in other areas? Also, did you clear coat over the adhesive decals (if I'm correct on the decals thing)?

dumb question, what exactly is an MRS switch?

Very cool! I recently concocted a homebrew opto sensor with an adruino to replace the missing center ramp switch on my Space Shuttle (the proprietary switch/gate mechanism under the shuttle toy was missing). Had I knows about these MRS's I could have used this instead and it would've been 100x easier. I may still swap in one of these in the future to simplify the setup.

Any way to increase the amount of time the carry passengers target remains lit? That target (and bottom Pinbot drop target) seems nearly impossible to hit without blind luck.

I'm going to be practicing that backhand shot like crazy now

Any tips to hit that bottom Pinbot drop target? Seems like the right slingshot is in the way relative to the position of the left flipper, regardless if the ball is caught on the flipper or has full momentum down the flipper inlane. I usually focus on another passenger until the bottom drop target is randomly hit, then I go in the for the kill on the rest of the drop target bank... That or try to nab Pinbot on the spinout. Either way, I've never liked the idea of intentionally designed "chance" targets that can only be hit by luck rather than skill. Not sure if that applies here, maybe I'm just not that good haha.

Those are from LW3.

Anyone know if/where this piece is available? Mine is cracked and glued to hell and back and needs to be replaced altogether.

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Thanks!

Been noticing a lot of bounce outs when I get a direct hard shot in Santa kickout... the ball recoils a bit and rolls right back out of the kickout hole and usually SDTM. I'm pretty sure it's because the front edge of the hole is worn down. Any solutions to correct the issue?

This is pinball blasphemy to some folks but I added a mod to my taxi (can be disabled with a flip of a switch of course) that when the carry passengers target is lit it also flashes DRAC lamp blue, and while he flashes blue the DRAC shot and carry passenger target both carry passengers. This makes the game A LOT easier since DRAC is an easily attainable shot for novice players as opposed to the passengers target which is luck unless you're really skilled. I never actively shot for carry passengers target because it's so hard to hit, so having a realistic way to carry passengers ball to ball changes strategy and has made the game more entertaining imo. I never liked the 'start from scratch each ball' feeling I got from taxi, it's my only gripe with the title even though it's my favorite.

Can't remember if this is a system 11 issue, but if I replace the back box flashers with LED's and leave the playfield flashers incandescent will that work or does it need to be all LED's, and does taxi use warming resistors that need to be snipped?

Thank you!

My display has been progressively fizzling out for years now and I think it's time to bite the bullet and replace it. I see XPin and Pinscore replacements. Any other options I'm missing? Pinscore seems out of stock for taxi. Xpin is not LED, correct? I like the color options with XPin and it seems a bit cheaper as well. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks!

Thanks for the advice!

This display looks identical to the one in taxi but doesn't include the meter bonus display. I actually only need the 16 digit display, my meter bonus is perfect. Will this work? I thought taxi 16 digit display had another extra ribbon connector to connect the meter bonus and this made the display in your link incompatible with taxi. Correct me if I'm wrong because this would be perfect if it's compatible.

Taxi isn't in the list of compatible games for any rottendog displays I see.

Where can you get them pre-assembled?

Thanks for the advice!

What type of window tint exactly are you guys using to hide the unlit segments? Anywhere to purchase small quantity of the tint, like 8.5"x11" sheet or does it have to be purchased in a giant roll enough to tint all windows in a standard vehicle?

Just got some XPin displays. Dumb question, do the adhesive vinyl color overlays get placed directly on the digits or on the clear portion of the back glass?

Thanks for the clarification!

Well, I installed the new XPin displays and unfortunately I think I received a defective display unless I am missing something. All of the middle segments on the lower display and several segments on the slave display do not illuminate. The display has a "segment test" button, and when the button is pressed all of the segments should light up. This does not happen and I'm sure it is not the MPU or ribbon/wire harness since these segments work fine with the old display. Am I missing something? Anything else to try? The links are bad to the PDF instructions on their website but installation is pretty self explanatory unless there is some out of the ordinary quirk with Taxi's display in particular.

I tried creating a support ticket with XPin but receive a "sorry no robots allowed" error when I submit the ticket (tried through phone, Chrome, and FireFox to no avail). Redirects me to http://support.21-electronics.com/ but the parent site will not allow me to register.

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Thanks. I did just a bit ago and they already responded. Great customer service!

I had this issue when I got mine and it was the position of the shooter rod. I loosened the shooter assembly from the cab and put a plastic wedge (around .75mm thick) at the bottom and tightened it in. This lowered the rod and point of contact on the ball. It made all the difference. On some plunges I can actually get to 75k twice so it's almost too much power. Also I wouldn't crank the wireform down super tight.

Interesting. I never thought about the hangers sagging but makes sense, after 30+ years of constant pressure they're sure to sag and effect ball position relative to the plunger. Good call!

That's a tough call. Just for the hell of it try slightly loosening the screws that hold the shooter lane habitrail down and see if you get any improvement.

On mine applying a bit more pressure to the bottom of the shooter rod when releasing seems to get more spins around the spinout.

Ant tips on fixing ball bounce out in Santa kickout? About 75% of the time the ball bounces out and rolls sdtm on mine. Very frustrating. Doesn't happen hitting it through gorbie shot.

I also installed Xpin displays in my taxi and they are great.

It's a 12v led strip connected to a 9v DC power supply. It doesn't tap into the native GI.

I have a surge protector mounted in the cab that it plugs into. The surge protector plugs into the internal service outlet. I wired the outlet so the master switch turns the service outlet on and off. Easily reversible mod.

I like how the pf looks with blue pop bumpers. I may have to swap mine for blue!

Stumbled across this 1/34 scale diecast taxi on ebay. It has gloss yellow paint and it fits perfectly on the departure ramp. Nice toy to spice up the playfield if you're into that modding stuff.

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I used servo tape and mounted it on the top of the metal gate. I used wire flush cutters on the plastic base under the car to trim it flat so it fits nicely on the gate. You'll see what I'm talking about when you see the underside of the car. Very easy to do.

Where did you get the traffic lights? Those are great. My traffic light plastic was missing when I bought my taxi so I made my own, moved it above the gorbie lane, and added leds to it that are controlled by the traffic light lamps in the backbox. I'd love to upgrade it to something like this and the size seems perfect.

As I've aged I've gotten a little more critical of crazy mods and rainbow puke lighting and have un-modded and de-puked several of my machines to an extent but I couldn't resist on this one. I added a 1/64 scale die cast taxi to the arrival ramp. It is a 1987 Chevrolet Caprice taxi, which is the exact taxi of the era this game is based off of. Also added a model traffic light with functional lights over the Gorbie/jackpot lane.

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I had the same issue with a ball would sometimes catapult immediately and sometimes wait for several seconds and sometimes not at all. It ended up being a bad switch.

A little late to reply but for what it's worth I like the afterburner leds for the pop bumpers. They aren't overly bright and they also make the base/shaft of the pop bumper glow in cool white which adds more light to the playfield and adds dimension to the pop bumpers. They are brighter than standard leds but not so bright that you need sunglasses to play haha. I'm not a big fan of the ultra bright UFO look either. I decided to go red, green, yellow. For the bottom green pop I used a standard led with a green lens because the green afterburner was too bright imo. The cool whit GI under the drop target plastic illuminates the pop bumper base perfectly so it all looks consistent.

This version is discontinued but I'm pretty sure they still make them.

https://cointaker.com/products/discontinued-afterburner-1pop-bumper-leds

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Those really lights up the upper playfield and looks nice! The last picture I posted before, the camera flash was on. This is closer to what it looks like without the Flash on. Keep in mind phone camera does not capture LEDs very well and this is all a matter of personal preference.

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