Joined the club last week, and finishing up a full cleaning/shop job. I'll be finishing up the flippers in a day or two (full rebuild, correct some wiring hacks, add missing capacitor, etc.).

For those that have upgraded to the WPC style return springs, do you HAVE to drill a new hole in the capacitor bracket, or could you just use the existing zip-tie hole? It's literally a 1/4" further away than the suggested new hole you are supposed to drill, and I figure adding that minute amount of tension to the spring would be arbitrary. Am I missing something?

Thanks for the quick reply!

The final little piece of minutiae is the back box lock; the one I have is completely missing, and it appears that whatever was there prior would engage a sliding mechanism to lock everything into place. From quick research, it appears that this unobtanium. Does anybody have a suggestion that could be made to work to lock the back glass up?

#555 for spinout and inserts (and a couple in the backbox for the stop signal light (I kept these incandescent for the fading effect)), #44 for the rest...

I like warm white cointakers or sunlight comets.

They made both from the factory...Marylin first, then Lola after. I have a Lola example.

Not down playing anybody's preference, but it's such a trivial thing to me about the Lola vs Marylin debate. Does the 3/4 inch insert and barely different back glass illustration of this one character really make that much difference to people? I never even think about it, let alone notice it, when I'm playing any version of Taxi.

Noticed an odd problem while playing last night. Was in the middle of a monster game (of course), had all passengers picked up, and hit the lit "carry passengers target" (Yes!), ball came firing back and hit the slings back and forth and then rocketed down the out lane. I plunge the next ball, and suddenly I notice that the gorbie shot keeps getting rejected? I continue playing, and also notice the slings aren't firing either (when they were before). I pull the glass and hit the wireform gate switch that opens the gorbie gate temporarily, and nothing. Slings not firing when I trigger them with a finger. Carry passengers switch not registering when activated, but the pops ARE working when triggered (they're all in the same switch column).

I put the game into switch test mode, and none of the switches in the column were registering, but the associated coils all fired in coil test. I look under the playfield for a broken wire, and can't find anything. I then pull the switch matrix connector off the board, reseat it, and no change when the game is powered back on. I power the game off again, pull the connector back off, and punch the associated colored wire firmly back into the connector with a jeweler's screwdriver. I power the game, and get a message saying "Factory Restored" or something like that, and everything in the column is now working correctly in edge test and in actual game play. I had to reconfigure the setting to freeplay, and I lost my high scores.

I never touched the remote battery pack (yeah yeah, I know, at least it's off the board), so I'm not sure what would have caused the factory restore? Anybody ever see this happen before? Admittedly, the batteries in the pack are old and the ones that came in the game when I got it a couple months ago (I'll swap them to lithiums this evening). Is this purely coincidental? Can the batteries being dead or low cause a switch column to go out? The whole thing is very strange...

Any suggested course of action?

The little wire gate at the loop in to the upper playfield area must be triggered to open the Gorbie gate. Pull the glass while Gorbie is lit, and flick the gate with your finger; if it clicks open for about 2-3 seconds, its working. If not, check/clean the gate solenoid and make sure a wire hasn't come off.

you could bend the switch leaf down (towards you) a little and see if it tightens up against the wire form gate/lessens the chance of the switch bottoming out and not triggering (it looks a little bent after years of playing...

Looks like it's hung up on the edge of the playfield mylar...

As to the flippers, sounds like the coil sleeve is crudded up, or the linkage is oblong, both which could cause binding, but the following flipper movements freed it up. Inspect, and determine if it's time for a rebuild. If you do rebuild, I suggest upgrading to WPC style spring returns. With freshly rebuilt flippers, they will last a loooonnnngggggg time in a home use setting.

Good luck!

THIS, THIS, and THIS...

Also where the ball leaves the wood and segways to the wire form at the plunger. The alignment is critical to the ball making a smooth transition to the bowl instead of the ball slamming into it and robbing it of momentum.

I make it through three to four full 100k run-ups on a full plunge, which actually makes it a skill shot.

Good luck!

Physically remove the bob, give it a couple quick wipes with a scotchbrite pad, then wipe it down with alcohol. Run the pad around inside of the ring as well, and give it quick wipe with some alcohol too. Make sure the wires associated to the bob/ring are soldered or screwed down tightly (forgot if Taxi has soldered wire ends or hardware connections).