Taxi
Williams, 1988You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider DumbAss.
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Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Aaaaaand it seems that W1 and W2 are just zero ohm resistors. So a piece of wire should do the trick. (Jumper) The trick of course is being ready to switch it off quick if the short is still in the system.
Those jumpers are there because the board is a single sided board (only has copper traces on one side).
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Finally getting somewhere! So the reason im not getting any continuity to ground at J18 is because THERE ISNT ONE!
Im not sure if this board is the wrong revision for Taxi or what the problem is, but after pulling the board and header, its obvious pins 6-7 are not connected to ground.
I wonder if its okay to just jump these two pins to ground?
Does this board revision have a reason theyre not connected to ground.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#MPU_Driver_Boards
Note also:
The options are limited. The standard double alphanumeric is much more common than the alphanumeric/numeric/numeric that both Taxi and Police Force use. You can convert Rottendog DIS240 displays to one that supports Taxi but you will have to modify the board and get a compatible jackpot (discrete) display.
There are a few other available options that I am aware of:
I am surprised that Marco (Pinscore) does not have an available display.
Quoted from truemagoo102:I have a working, clean interconnect board to a Taxi that does not work in the BK2K I'm helping someone on. Anyone need it?
Taxi interconnect board is D-12185. It is ONLY compatible with Swords of Fury and Taxi. It is NOT compatible with D-12313 that is used in every other System 11B/C game that has a standard interconnect board.
D-12185 is missing the 4N25 optocoupler circuits that detect the flipper cabinet buttons and the A/C relay.
Quoted from Bumper:There is no documentation, I don't know the colors or pinout, so I need clear pictures of both connectors where they are plugged in.
Post images of the connectors at 2J7, 2J11 and 2J12. If you want you post an area image of these. More images = better. Images should be well illuminated and in focus for best results. I need to see what you have to figure out what's missing.
Quoted from Bellagio:I can't find any pics of the connection to the boards right now, but here is the connector at the topper board.
This helps fill in information. Coupled with the requested images above it should be obvious what wires go where.
<disclaimer>
NOTE: I do not have a Taxi and have not worked on one. All of the following is from the manual and information contained therein.
</disclaimer>
Quoted from Bumper:Thanks, not sure if the [2] in front of the connector is for Aux Power Driver board or Back box Interconnect Board but I will post all of them.
Here's the enumeration.
This is the topper connector. Annotated. Note the wire colors.
This the solenoid table.
Note the wire colors for solenoid 6C and 7C. They match the topper connector. The "1d" designation means "1 flasher in the dome".
This is the wiring for the interconnect board. Relevant headers are 2J7 and 2J11.
03_taxi_interconnect_wiring.jpg
These are the corresponding wires in the connectors for 2J7 and 2J11.
04_taxi_interconnect_gi_insert.jpg05_taxi_interconnect_flasher_insert.jpg
You will need to trace those wires up to the backbox (insert) and see where they go. The general illumination may or may not split but the solenoid 6C and 7C should be just a single termination.
If you are uncertain then post some images of the wiring in the backbox up to the topper.
Quoted from VeryCurious:Afterwards I pulled up the playfield and checked the connections, sleeve, stroke, EOS, flipper button, etc, and everything seems to be ok.
If you think you've ruled out mechanical causes then it's likely to be electrical. Start by checking F5 and F6 on the Auxiliary Power Driver board. When checking the fuse be sure to pull one end of the fuse out of the fuse holder. Do not just visually inspect the fuse. Measure continuity with a multimeter.
Quoted from VeryCurious:Is there a multimeter walkthrough for System 11s, or Taxi specifically?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11
Quoted from humanoid:Correction to my last post: R7 and R9 should both be 4Ω 10% 5W vice 5.6Ω as per the manual. I've also noticed R9 is also missing. No idea where these could have gone; perhaps they crapped out at some point & were removed to keep the game going?
Check the number of flashers in the circuit. The total number of flashers. This includes playfield, insert and dome.
Don't trust the manual. Look at the machine wiring and count the total number of flashers. The System 11 manuals have small errors like this. If you install the wrong value, the flashers will either be too bright or too dim.
I have seen resistors that have "self de-soldered". When that happens, they fall off. It is also possible that a drive transistor had shorted and rather than fix the shorted transistor, the operator just cut the resistor off.
Quoted from humanoid:My Right Ramp flashers have never worked for me, but whenever my Left Lamp flashers fire, I know the 89 under the ramp flashes and the two 906s on the dome flash. There's four flashers on the dome total as seen below. I imagine the other two dome flashers flash whenever 7C fires.
This being the case, shouldn't R7 and R9 both be 4Ω resistors and the '1p, 1d' is a typo that should read '1p, 2d'?
Without actually seeing the wiring, I can conclude (with deduction) that you are likely to be correct.
Reasoning:
Since there are 4x flasher (906) sockets, there must be 2x flashers for each drive. So "1p, 2d" is likely to be correct.
The rest of the flasher resistor values seem correct with the exception of solenoid #16 (JOYRIDE Flasher). The manual lists "1p" which would imply an 11 Ohm resistor. The BOM for the board lists R10 as 5.6 Ohm which implies 2x total flashers.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:It looks like 2 sets of wires go thru that hole: 1. Red/Red/Brown with Gray stripes.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:2. Green with black stripes/White with brown stripes.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:The Green and white wires look like they were hacked at some point by somebody. They turned 2 - green and 2 - white wires into 1 - white wire and 1 - green wire.
That's not a hack. It is factory.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:Now....what would cause that flasher to be on all the time. That Q6 transistor?
It's WPC but it's the same principle.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Coil_Locks_On
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I thought it was the Joyride Flasher but there is another flasher under the ramp that has the wires for the Joyride Flasher and the manual says there is only 1 Joyride Flasher on the playfield.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Williams manuals have lots of errors. This is most likely another one.
^^^^^ THIS. The manual is wrong. It's not 1p but rather 2p. You can tell this because R10 on the Interconnect board is 5.6 Ohm. Go take a look. I bet it's a 5.6 Ohm 5W resistor. That's consistent with 2p not 1p.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:My best guess is that the flasher in the corner and the flasher under the ramp are both Joyride flashers. The picture on the top shows 1 of these Brown/Gray or Blue wires going to the flasher under the ramp which I assume means it is the end of the line and the bottom photo shows 2 of these Brown/xxx wires going to the bulb in the corner which I assume means it is the first of 2. So if those 2 Brown wires are the same - that must be the case.
You are correct.
00_taxi_joyride_flasher.jpg01_taxi_joyride_flasher.jpg02_taxi_joyride_flasher.jpg
The real confirming factor is the 5.6 Ohm 5W resistor on the Interconnect board.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:The only thing I have not taken out is the Interconnect Board because I am not sure what that does.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I especially do not understand why or how the flasher in the top left corner of the playfield will not work.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I think the biggest problem that I am having must be a common problem in this game. If you look at this Solenoids/Flashers Diagram that i took out of the Taxi Manual - There are 3 Flashers that are on my game that do not show up on this Diagram. I have them listed as 1, 2, 3. And perhaps not coincidentally, these are the 3 flashers on my game that do not work. I am wondering if everybody else who has this game also has these 3 Flashers and did Williams ever correct this problem in the Manual. Or were these Flashers added to the game but never used.
Manuals have errors. Not often but they do have them. You can often spot them by looking for corroborating evidence elsewhere. It's not easy to find that evidence since you really have to understand how the games are wired and what information is presented. This is what I was referring to when I suggested you look at R10 (that you ignored) for a 5.6 Ohm resistor. I normally don't follow up with people that ignore my advice. I can see, however, that you aren't getting anywhere and this problem has been going on for DAYS with multiple posts when it really should've been resolved quite a few posts ago.
I can offer some more advice but I really don't want to post stuff that gets ignored. It's a waste of my time to post it and a waste of everybody else's time to read it.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I sent a picture of R10 which is just below J4 but I could not tell if it was a 5.6 Ohm resistor and I do not have an interconnect schematic if there even is one. As you can see by the picture - the R10 and R6 and R7 have some blackening on the board next to the top connection of the resistor. I do not know what this means and I would appreciate any help you can give.
Don't worry about the schematic. You can find the operation manual @ https://www.ipdb.org/files/2505/Williams_1988_Taxi_Manual.pdf and the schematic @ https://www.ipdb.org/files/2505/Williams_1988_Taxi_Schematics.pdf if you care to download them.
The resistor values are different for each machine. This is why the schematic is not important since any value on them is irrelevant.
For the moment, this isn't super critical to your problem. If you're curious the resistor value is clearly printed on the resistor. Just look to the side of it.
Since there's been a lot of posts with a lot of different information here and there, I would suggest you summarize the issue(s) that you are having. I have a feeble mind that is not capable of following across a lot of cross-posts.
Is it that you don't know what those flashers are since they aren't in the manual? Is it that those flashers do not activate in solenoid test? You need to be specific with what is happening since I make no assumptions about what is and is not working. If you don't specify something then I can't advise on it.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:The problem that I have is that 3 Flashers are on my game but they are not shown on the Diagram so I did not know what they were. On my game they never go on either during Gameplay or during Coil Test. I now believe that all 3 are JoyRide Flashers for Solenoid 16. I am trying to figure out why they do not go on so that I can get them to work. The CPU has been tested and it works perfectly. I changed the ROMs U26 and U27 to L-4. When I did this and started the game - one of the 3 Flashers stayed on, got real hot and burnt out. This is one of the Flashers that now does not work.
Great. I make NO assumptions about which flasher is what based on what you believe. Please don't take offense to that. I only trust the wiring. Sometimes, I don't even trust that.
In a previous image (above), you posted THREE flashers which are numbered. Let's stick with that convention.
Now show me the wiring that is connected to each of those flashers. Reference the number (above) so I know which is what. Well illuminated (use a flash if necessary) and in-focus. You can link previous images if you want but make sure the reference number above is obvious as to which is which.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:R10 is a 5.6 Ohm resistor. R10 reads 2.70. R9 reads 4.10. R8 reads 5.9. R7 reads 4.2. R6 reads 4.2. R1-R5 read 5.8. Thanks for your help.
Measuring 2.7 Ohm when the resistor is labeled 5.6 Ohm warrants further investigation. You are measuring in circuit. Disconnect 2J4, 2J11 and 2J12. Measure again. This isolates everything in the PFD and insert from the board. Report the reading. The other readings above (R1-R9) are consistent with what I expect.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:When I disconnect 2J4, 2J11, 2J12 - I get no reading on R10 (0.L stays in the mm). The other resistors had the same readings as before.
Resistor R10 is bad. Replace it. You can in the short term use another value resistor between 5.6 Ohm up to 11 Ohm. The higher the value, the less bright the flasher will be. If you use a different value than the recommended 5.6 Ohm be sure to correct it later. You can also use a jumper if you really want just to be sure that this is the cause. It's a momentary flash. It should not cause any damage.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:The Top is Flasher 1 - 2 Red Wires, 2 - Brown/Grey wires
Quoted from The_Great_Man:The 2nd Down is Flasher 2 - 2 Red Wires, 1 - Brown/Grey wire
These are the (2p) Joyride flashers. Since R10 is open, you need to fix that before the flashers will work. As above, you can just use an alligator clip to bypass the resistor and test. Don't use that as a permanent solution.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:The 3rd Down is Flasher 3 - 2 Orange Wires, 1 - Black/Grey wire
This is 8C (Spinout).
00_taxi_solenoid_table.jpg01_taxi_solenoid_locations.jpg
Show me the wiring of the #89 socket at the top right of the PFD from below. There should be 2x ORG and 2x BLK-GRY wires attached to the #89 socket. Does this flasher work in solenoid test? I assume it does but want definitive clarification.
Can you trace the wires for flasher "3" and show me where the wiring goes under the PFD. Wider angle is probably best. You may need to use a flash or external light source.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:There is black tape around the socket for Flasher 3. Not sure why that tape is there but they may be why that Flasher is not working.
When I see electrical tape like that, it scares me. It almost always hides a surprise. You need to check continuity of the BLK-GRY wire from the socket under the PFD to the socket above the PFD. You should also check continuity of the ORG wire but that's not likely to be the problem. I suspect there is continuity but the electrical tape hides a surprise.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:Need to remove the Spinout and Ramp to get to that Flasher to replace the socket.
Remove the electrical tape and examine it. If it doesn't reveal anything obvious then post some images. Everything points to any of:
The wiring looks factory so I don't think there's anything worth commenting on there. One final thing is that some LED flasher bulbs are polarized. You need to insert them in the correct polarity otherwise they don't flash. If everything looks good then "flip" the bulb around and see what happens. Of course, you should verify that the bulb itself is good.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:Thank you so much for your help. You have helped many people with their games and I am sure - Like me - they appreciate it. I will replace R10 and that Flasher socket tomorrow and let you know how everything works. It is 3:30 am here and it was time well spent. As an Engineer I truly respect someone who knows what they are doing and love to learn from people who know more than me. Thanks again.
You're welcome. Get some sleep. Don't forget that Jmckune requested the resistance measurement. I would have eventually reached there but I prefer to go through a systematic approach. That was an obvious shortcut and definitely good advice. I have seen open resistors on that board before.
I like to help people but I also like it when people follow the requests for information. I usually just ask questions and wait for responses. If there are no responses to the questions asked I move on.
One final thing: please remember to post the follow up and resolution if the problem is resolved. It is important for other people (reading the thread in the future) to see what the solution was so they can learn as well.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I replaced R10 with a resistor that measures 5.8 Ohm. I also replaced R6, R7, R9 and R1 with 5.6 Ohm resistors (the original R6, R7, R9 were 4.0 Ohm resistors) because they looked a little tired, I do not want to take this board off again and all I had were 5.6 Ohm resistors.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:Never mind. I had an 87 bulb in one of the flashers. Replaced it with an led and it works fine. These machines really make me feel stupid,
The resistance should be what the factory installed. The BOM in the manual should be trusted ahead of the solenoid table. The solenoid table is often wrong. If you are using incandescent flasher bulbs, do not change resistor values unless you know what you are doing as you will likely get unexpected results (typically flasher is too bright or too dim).
Typical resistor values are 0, 3, 4, 5.6 and 11 Ohm. R1-R8 varies between games due to the flasher counts. R9-R12 varies between games due to flasher counts and assignments.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I am using led Flashers but it sounds like I should put the 4 Ohm resistors back in R6, R7, R9. They measure 4.2 Ohm but they looked a little rough.
For the most part, the only thing that matters is how it measures not how it looks. That applies to the component. The solder joint is a different thing.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:Do you know what Flashers R6, R7 and R9 are connected to?
Quoted from The_Great_Man:My best guess would be that R6 is the Left Ramp Flasher - Solenoid 06C (Black/Blue); R7 is the Right Ramp Flasher - Solenoid 07C (Black/Violet); R9 is the Jackpot Flasher - Solenoid 9 (Brown/Violet). I have led's in each of these Flashers.
Looks like a lamp column (Q60) problem where the column is always active.
Your video skips 08. Check that the pattern 01 (11) / 09 (21) / 17 (31) / 33 (51) / 41 (61) / 49 (71) / 57 (81) all also light 25 (41).
If column 4 is stuck on then check Q60.
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West Chicago, IL