Quoted from pinballinreno:

You can disable it in the service menu.
I have played it both ways, now I really like the bell for the jackpots etc. It wakes the game up!

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Most games now have the marilyn playfield and backglass.
Lola seems more rare today.

Quoted from killerrobots:

For the second one, it is probably a switch matrix fault. I would guess a bad diode but you should go into switch test and play with all the switches and see if any register two or more when it should only be one. Note any that are funky and check the switch matrix in the manual and see if they are all related by column or row.
Also, just look at the switches and see if there is any obvious fault such as a missing diode or diode installed backwards.
This might help as well:
https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/[quoted image]

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I have the same condition on mine. I used a deep throated C-clamp to press down on a hard wood block on the top of the playfield. I used a 2 part epozy from the back side to secure the edges of the inserts to their holes. You likely have to remove some pieces underneath to make room for the clamp. I glue 1-2 inserts at a time if the clamp can press down on that many, let it cure for about an hour and then move to the next one.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I use a nice flat and smooth piece of oak on the playfield side. It leaves no impressions on the old mylar. If no mylar I put wax paper down first under the wood block. The hot versus cold thing does not seem to have much effect in my experience, especially on System 11s. Williams used some large rectangular inserts and they really move around. The adhesive lets go locally and the variations in wood/plastic movement slowly detach the bond. This is not a hot/cold issue. If the adhesive was instead creeping and accommodating movements I would think heating it might help but I don't think that is what is happening. I notice that arrow inserts really tip up at the arrow tip end and you can easily push them down but they spring up again. The arrow tip adhesive has let go.
Chances are the mylar is a bit tented up over the raised insert. This has saved your insert from being chipped apart. But it stays detached even when the insert is pushed back down. Trying to fix that has a lot more risk and trying to fill it is actually quite a large volume. It is not like trying to wick CA glue under a delaminated chunk of clear coat. The mylar gap is quite large. Best thing I do is prick it with a pin and press it down again now that the air can get out but it is of limited success. A really tented section will definitely stay much lower down though.

Quoted from dmacy:

Not sure what the deal is but the price is right! I agree blue looks best too.
ebay.com link: Williams Taxi Pinball Spinout Spin Out Ramp with Ball Retainer NEW BLUE

Quoted from ralphs007:

I read in the System 11 club, that you should heat the T-nut with a soldering iron,when you're removing the post. They may have used some kind of lock-tite when it was built?
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Quoted from Jmckune:

You can do that, I opted to just break the posts and t-nuts as they are both cheap and it saved a significant amount of time trying to heat up and remove old hardware

Quoted from Bellagio:

No, Taxi doesn’t have the warming resistor boards like HS. The issue with led flashers in Taxi is that when you replace all of the flashers with leds, you may see some of them slightly ghost when you press the flipper buttons. I believe Whirlwind has the same issue. It’s not a huge deal, but it’s kind of annoying.
I did some research and read that it’s due to the flashers being on the same circuit as some of the coils. There are a couple of workarounds that people developed involving adding diodes to some of the coils or removing diodes from the aux power board.
For me, I just changed a couple of them back to regular 89 bulbs and it solved the problem.

Quoted from BriPin:

I assume your replacement ramps are from Starship Fantasy. I had the same issue with my ramps not fitting because they installed the brackets backwards during production. Reach out to Larry to replace them with no problem if that’s your issue or you could just drill out the rivets and rivet the brackets back in the correct orientation.