(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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#1565 4 years ago

New member of the club here. My machine has a number of issues to deal with but I have display issue that seem strange. The bottom row of the main display is totally blank. Top row works fine, the separate 7 digit display works fine. I have a Diner with a led replacement display so I swapped it into Taxi but I had nowhere to plug the 7 digit in.

Now I get info on all 4 player sections. Top row (1 and 2) look fine as before. Bottom row player 3 looks mostly fine but missing the occasional segment. Player 4, the display is working but all the inner extra segments are lit all the time make it impossible to see the main segments displaying words.

Swapped the display back into Diner and it looks normal again. Any idea how to figure out what is happening?

One other question, how do I get the Taxi topper to light during test? It does not seem to operate during solenoid test mode.

1 month later
#1600 4 years ago

I am cleaning up a Taxi I recently bought. I have several ball guides where the threaded stud has sheared off in the play field. Easy to remove but where can I get a replacement piece to rivet on so I can bolt it in again?

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#1618 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Yep. Or I go in santa, it awards santa and joyride, but then doesn't kick ball out until ball search.

Here is the switch matrix for Taxi. The Dracula catapult, and Trough 1 switch are on the same row. Santa (I think it is the top eject hole) is on a different row. The System 11 B design is a bit dumb so there are a couple places to look. Check on the interconnect board (Long narrow PCB at bottom of head) along the bottom where the switch matrix plugs in. Then at the top of board the same connections then jump from 2 connectors (one for rows, one for columns) to the MPU board. Any issues at any of those connections can cause the symptoms you are seeing as can bad diodes at any of the switches, or a bad switch.

The reason I say dumb, is there is no real use to the interconnect board, the switch matrix could connect directly to the MPU if the connectors were different.

To test a microswitch it should make a distinct faint connect and disconnect sound when exercised, they are really reliable and usually the failed ones I find that distinct sound is gone. You can wire jumper across the wires at the switch to simulate the switch closing and eliminate the connectors at the boards in the head. If it is at the interconnect board it is likely to be the lower connector that heads to the playfield since the harness hangs from the pins, the solder connections get fatigue cracks in them. It is easy to remedy by reflowing the solder but the board has to come out.

Switch Matrix (resized).jpgSwitch Matrix (resized).jpg
#1621 4 years ago

I cannot get my plunged ball to go around more than twice in the spin out. A previous owner put the strongest spring in. I see my plunger hits the ball up high and to the right. Can someone tell me what spring is correct to start with?

#1627 4 years ago
Quoted from grandy:

It probably has nothing to do with your spring. (check the manual but i do believe it should be the strongest or next to strongest spring.) My taxi spinout problems had to do with wear in the shooter lane that was causing a bounce, and a very cracked spinout ramp that was too shaky.
1. Make sure that the spinout ramp and the wireform that go up to it from the plunger are all tightly screwed into place. Shake and wobble can have a bigger impact that you'd think.
2. Ensure that your plunger is in line with the ball (if it's offset, you may be sending the ball up at an angle instead of straight).
3. If you're still having issues, take a slo-mo video of the plunge going up and you may be able to see what is taking the momentum out of the ball. (this is how i discovered my shooter lane issue).
good luck!

I appreciate the response. Let me answer some of what I have done.

"1. Make sure that the spinout ramp and the wireform that go up to it from the plunger are all tightly screwed into place. Shake and wobble can have a bigger impact that you'd think."

Started with a loose broken spinout ramp and was definitely a problem. I have secured it in place then got a brand new one, so it is now very solid. Still had the issue.

"2. Ensure that your plunger is in line with the ball (if it's offset, you may be sending the ball up at an angle instead of straight)."

Definitely still an issue. The plunger hits high and an bit to the right of the ball. I temporarily tried raising the bottom of the playfield to get the plunger lower on the ball. At one point the ball went around the cup ~20 times! It seems really sensitive to the height. I have not been able to make a leftward adjustment yet.

"3. If you're still having issues, take a slo-mo video of the plunge going up and you may be able to see what is taking the momentum out of the ball. (this is how i discovered my shooter lane issue)."

I will have to do that next.

#1629 4 years ago

I have been doing a full shop job and I am at the re-assembly stage now. New issue, the top left kicker fires the ball perfectly along that long 5" rubber and straight down the drain. Looking at lots of YouTube videos it seems most Taxis toss the ball to the right a bit and bounces off the back left side of the Marilyn target bank. Do I need to move the entire mechanism underneath the playfield or is there a way to bend the arm instead?

#1631 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Mine throws it directly to the middle of the right flipper, doesn't hit anything on the way down.
You should be able to bend the arm to adjust the angle, if you can reach it

Viewed from the playing position, I am thinking I should bend the arm to the left a bit to hit the ball to the right.

#1641 4 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Just to follow up: I also noticed that the slingshots are “one shot” devices. Ie, I hold in a switch, and they only activate once. The pop bumpers, however, lock on if I hold down the skirt. Is this typical with Taxi? I know that Williams abandoned the special solenoids back with Big Guns, but my game behaves as if it still has them.

I noticed that same thing on mine too. I assume this is normal. I guess they kept making changes. I also have a Diner, the pops have only a single switch on the pops where Taxi has the spoon switch as well as a separate scoring switch.

#1642 4 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Just started to dig into my Taxi and noticed It’s running prototype roms. S/N is 160271, it’s a Marilyn game, and the rom revision is “PA-8.” Also is running prototype sound ROMs.
Is there any significance to this? Anyone know anything about the prototype ROMs in Taxi, and would it worthwhile to upgrade them to the newest non prototype revision?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My machine is a Marilyn as well, serial number 160343 and it too has the proto ROMs. I would love to know differences there are.

2 weeks later
#1661 4 years ago

Can people tell me how well their skill shots are working? I have been playing forever with the set up for mine. I altered the cabinet opening to let me line the plunger up better. The ball was shooting left into the wall at first. Slo-mo video helped debug that. My SpinOut ramp was tilted left a bit and it made a huge difference to level it.

Now a full stroke is usually 100k, and often goes one short to 75k or one more to 1k. It still seems a bit easy to hit 100k though it would be more of a skill shot if it would wrap around a few more turns.

#1667 4 years ago

When I first started playing with it, the plunger was way to the right and high, it was lucky to go around 3 times (10k). At one point I started lifting the playfield manually and found with it still to the right but now artificially lower I could get it to go around 20 times, it was insane. But I have never achieved that by setting it up properly for some reason. I have opened up the cabinet hole enough that I can get down too low which lobs the ball up and hits the underside of the wire ramp.

The temperature thing is interesting. I have a Titan rubber tip and had been thinking I should go back to a regular rubber one as a test.

I notice that glass out and lock bar removed works better. Somehow clamping the lock bar down on the glass makes a subtle change. I lose 1-2 turns with everything done up.

Definitely the most finicky plunger I have ever dealt with.

#1669 4 years ago
Quoted from hwyhed:

it seems to be a bit of a common problem w this game. I took my shooter rod all apart earlier this week, cleaned the sleeve, and l even put a washer behind the plate inside of the game to align the tip in the middle of the ball. Most of the time now, I can achieve 50-75 thousand on a full pull back; I purchased a new red spring the other day, hopefully it makes a difference ( I doubt it) guess I’ll find out later this evening..

You raise a good point. I happened to buy a new plunger casting and when I installed it I found the plunger tip was more left than before. So while you can slide everything around to get the tip where you want, it does not mean the plunger axis is lined up behind the ball correctly. You can have the tip squared up perfectly, and be shooting in an incorrect direction. I believe my new housing is squared up and the old one is cocked a bit.

#1675 4 years ago

I took many of these videos while I was tuning my plunger. This was early on in the process. With the naked eye you cannot see this at all. A surprising amount of energy is lost while smacking that wall. It is slowed down already but YouTube speed controls let you slow it down even more. I should add this is now fixed I have moved the plunger to the left.

4 months later
#1950 3 years ago

I got back to playing my Taxi again finally after finally putting it back together. I get such a varying behaviour from the from the plunger it really is annoying me. I spent a lot of time getting it working really well (being able to wrap around the bowl shot so it is really a skill shot), only to find it could barely go around 3-4 times. After playing it for a while it noticeably changed for the better and then got worse again after that. I tried making some alignment changes again and got things working better but the behaviour is constantly drifting.

Is this just the nature of the beast? This is the only machine I have that I have really ever had to give thought to making the plunger work.

#1954 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I've found on mine it's less a problem with the plunger rod alignment and more of an issue with the wire form slowing mine down. After adjusting mine its whips around the bowl enough times to go all the way through the awards and back to the 25k when I do a full plunge.

I have been doing slow motion clips repeatedly of the ball launch. Definitely the transition from wood to wireform loses energy. The ball can rattle left/right quite a bit. I dial in the plunger, opened up the cabinet opening to allow full adjustment that I needed. At one point I had the ball going around easily 20 times, spinning like crazy above the switch. But eventually the thing drifted somehow. I just fired the game up and could only get 3-4 spins. During the game it got better and better, then worse again over the course of 20 minutes. Driving me crazy.

I find my iPhone slo-mo not quite slow enough. Wish I could do even slower.

#1959 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Check hangers where the playfield locks in under the lock bar. Over time these get stretched out and sag. A lot of the times on Taxi the spinout shot goes to crap and nobody knows why. It is because these brackets sag lowering the front of the playfield beyond what can be compensated for by the shooter assembly. Fix that and things should work for you. The shooter tip has to be centered for maximum rotations. Anyone adding shims or coins on the shooter assembly has sagging hangers.

You are absolutely correct and I have spent quite a bit of time adjusting them already. They were too low when I started. I also installed a new plunger housing when I discovered the original was angled to the right a bit. The new one is straight. I have the plunger centered in the middle of the ball. I keep thinking it should hit slightly low to lift it a bit or maybe a little high to help it spin rather than skid forward.

#1963 3 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Obvious question but do you have the correct spring? Another thing to check is the shooter apron. Make sure that is isn't bent oddly. After all the ball rests on it. The last thing is the shooter tip. Titan tips are a little soft for Taxi. Might have to go old school rubber.

I have every spring choice from Marcos. Right now I am using the second softest one. You are right about the tip, I am using Titan. I will have to see if I have any older ones.

Just joking but maybe a pool cue tip right on the metal shaft would work.

2 months later
#2132 3 years ago
Quoted from N101AA:

Sorry for the newbie question, but my first pinball purchase was a Taxi a few months ago. I too am having problems getting a full plunge to reach the 100k skill shot. After reading Barr993's suggestions (thanks for your post!) I noticed the shooter rod was off center to the right on the ball. However, I cannot figure out how to adjust the shooter rod. I loosen the 3 screws on the cabinet so the shooter assembly has some play, but after making an adjustment the assembly goes right back into the original position when I tighten the 3 screws despite my efforts to encourage it to go into a new position. It seems there is no "play" at all available in the shooter assembly. Is there suppose to be? Or is there another way to make an adjustment to the shooter rod?

On mine I had to open up the cabinet triangle opening to allow enough room to make adjustments. You can open it up quite a lot and still remain hidden under the shooter bracket. Also check that the shooter rod is actually straight. My casting for the plunger aimed slightly right. You could fix this with a shim under the casting on the cabinet face. I could center everything on the ball but it was aimed slightly right, likely putting English on a pool ball. The ball would launch quite straight but with a noticeable spin. I replace my casting with a new one from MarcoSpecialties.

#2138 3 years ago

Taxi plunger shot fix

I have posted multiple times like others here looking to see how to fix my plunger shot. When I purchased my game it would only go around the bowl 2-3 times max. This is a major game element and it did not work, I was pretty bummed about it.

I did all the following things:

- Corrected the sagged and bent playfield brackets - helped a lot.
- Replaced plunger sleeve - helped a bit
- Played with every spring stiffness, settled on the strongest one - did less than you might think.
- Opened cabinet opening where plunger casting is mounted to allow full adjustability to center the plunger on the ball - settled on hitting the ball very slightly above center.
- Replaced the casting with a new one, mine was aimed right. I could center it on the ball but it always aim right, like putting English on a pool ball. - helped a bit.
- Went back and forth with the plunger tip being a new natural rubber one vs a Titan one. - no real impact.
- Tried removing the wire gate at the top of the wireform - no impact.

Generally I got to the point where I could maybe get up to 100k (7 turns) but most of the time it was 50-75k at most. I also found it varied a lot. The rod in the sleeve is just not that precise in its fit. Pull your plunger all the way out and pull the knob up/down/side/side, it moves around and that can mis-aim the ball. I would often hear a obvious thump/thwack sound as the ball was somewhere in the ramp wire form region, clearly losing energy somewhere.

I found how I pulled the plunger mattered. Pulling it out to a hard stop and releasing was usually worse than a single smooth pull and release at the end point, still not clear why this matters. I suspect the angular slop in the sleeve is the issue since I probably pull out, and then up a bit.

Finally I wondered why my shooter lane has significant wear well past the entrance to the wireform. Shouldn't the ball be riding the wires by that point? I believe that over the years the ball has hammered the wires into a bowed shape, anyone tightening the nuts underneath would just pull it down even more. In the end, the wireform is really low in its recesses.

Check out the video, the takeaway: I bent the wireform back to what it probably looked like when new. I raised the entrance end using small spacers and some washers on the threaded screw mounts so the rails are up and just under the edges of the ball. The ball rides the wires as soon as it gets to them, it no longer runs on the wood. I get way more consistent plunge shots. I have seen as many as 20 revolutions.

I also found that my long Taxi plastic laying on the wireform was affecting the ball for some reason so I have bent it up and off of it. Putting the glass and lock down bar on also reduces the number of turns for some reason I don't understand. All buttoned up, I have played about 50 games since and I usually wrap-around to 1k over 5k now. I actually scored a passenger (25k) by wrapping around. On one shot I scored 100k by wrapping around and getting to 100k a second time.

So far so good. I am sure this will help some of the Taxis out there.

#2143 3 years ago
Quoted from RyThom:

My Taxi is playing great, except the Dracula catapult throws the balls so that they almost always end up draining out the left outlane. A shot up the left ramp does not do this - it only happens flying out of Drac's shot. Sometimes you can save it, but this should be a clean return, right?
I've tried moving the wireform to and fro, adding and subtracting washers at various points; no luck.
Anyone else had this issue?

I get the occasional weird bounce where it drops out of the left wire form and somehow jumps up and around into the outlane, it is maddening. I have not noticed whether it only happens due to the Drac catapult or not. I bent the upper two wires to open it a bit so it will hit lower down the inlane. Seemed to help a bit.

#2152 3 years ago

What is supposed to be on the backglass Taxi meter display? I was under the impression that it shows the jack pot value between balls. During play I thought it was supposed to show the bonus racking up slowly, like a taxi fare. Mine stubbornly just shows the jackpot value 100% of the time. I am using updated ROMs bought from someone on Pinside and the game plays normally from what I can tell except for this one aspect.

#2155 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Which displays do you have? If you have new pin led displays, the jackpot counter won’t show the meter bonus racking up. If you read back on this thread, there is work around to combat this but involves cutting diodes on the board or something like that. Mine has new displays and won’t show it either. Tempted to find an original glass display to have it back

Wow, I was totally unaware of that and yes I have a new led display. I will try to find it in this thread.

Edit: Found the ribbon cable, moved it over and now I have the rolling taxi fare display as it is supposed to be.

#2157 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Awesome mate. And I didn’t know about the ribbon cable thing!!! What do I need to do.

This post shows the switch to make. I guess the pinscore display can drive two remote regular displays. In this case, the left one displays differently than the right one. I had connected it up like my old display and that causes the display to get locked onto just showing the jackpot.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-club-members-only/page/30#post-4912555

#2162 3 years ago

I would guess it is a single pin on the data pins coming from the processor card. Try wiggling each individual wire at the connector at the processor card, both in and out of the interconnect board as well as at the main display end. It is unlikely to be the ribbon cable since the remote display just displays what made it to the main display.

1 week later
#2208 3 years ago

Check to see if your playfield can move side to side on the hangers at where they sit in the lock down assembly. On mine the playfield naturally works its way to the right and when it does I lose 2-3 turns in the up. If I slide it left, I get them back. I figure I better find a way to keep it in place.

4 weeks later
#2231 3 years ago
Quoted from andre060:

Thanks, yeah the slow motion video shows the ball jumping out of the shooter lane and hitting the top forks of the entrance to the skill shot wire form, hence me thinking the shooter lane groove isn't deep enough. I've adjusted the shooter knob every which way but no matter what a hard shot causes the ball to jump up no matter what.

The depth of the groove is not really important, it just holds the ball in a consistent place so the shooter can hit it. Check out my videos a couple pages earlier in this thread for examples.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-club-members-only/page/43#post-5807869

Make sure you actually have enough adjustment room in the cabinet hole for the shooter rod casting to do what you need. After I shot my videos I also found my playfield would always plop down in one place and as I played it would creep to the right enough to really change the skill shot.

1 month later
#2286 3 years ago

Does anyone know how Taxi decides the amount for the multiplier on the skill shot? I have seen it increment as high as 5x but don't know how it decides to increase. I have been on ball 3 with the multiplier only at 3x and I have been on ball 1 with 3x as well. Also, anyone know the upper limit for it?

5 months later
#2457 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My Taxi sometimes locks up if let to set for a couple hours while turned on.
I havent looked at anything yet, Im still building a collection of restoration parts.

First guess would be power supply condition, are the large capacitors original? Likely they need changing.

6 months later
#2643 2 years ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

So... got a Taxi two weeks ago.
- I have a few raised inserts that are under the mylar. I know usually you can warm the insert with a hairdryer and lightly tap them back down; but can this be done through the mylar?

I have the same condition on mine. I used a deep throated C-clamp to press down on a hard wood block on the top of the playfield. I used a 2 part epozy from the back side to secure the edges of the inserts to their holes. You likely have to remove some pieces underneath to make room for the clamp. I glue 1-2 inserts at a time if the clamp can press down on that many, let it cure for about an hour and then move to the next one.

#2648 2 years ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Do you tighten them cold or after a little warming up?
(Also... does it mess up the mylar??)

I use a nice flat and smooth piece of oak on the playfield side. It leaves no impressions on the old mylar. If no mylar I put wax paper down first under the wood block. The hot versus cold thing does not seem to have much effect in my experience, especially on System 11s. Williams used some large rectangular inserts and they really move around. The adhesive lets go locally and the variations in wood/plastic movement slowly detach the bond. This is not a hot/cold issue. If the adhesive was instead creeping and accommodating movements I would think heating it might help but I don't think that is what is happening. I notice that arrow inserts really tip up at the arrow tip end and you can easily push them down but they spring up again. The arrow tip adhesive has let go.

Chances are the mylar is a bit tented up over the raised insert. This has saved your insert from being chipped apart. But it stays detached even when the insert is pushed back down. Trying to fix that has a lot more risk and trying to fill it is actually quite a large volume. It is not like trying to wick CA glue under a delaminated chunk of clear coat. The mylar gap is quite large. Best thing I do is prick it with a pin and press it down again now that the air can get out but it is of limited success. A really tented section will definitely stay much lower down though.

1 month later
#2736 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

After getting a ton of play at the Houston arcade show I finally got around to fixing almost everything. I installed the new blue spinout ramp. Love it and it looks great! While I had the playfield out I fixed the GI problem I covered earlier. Sure looks better with the right side and the top lamps all working. Next I did a deep dive on the switch for the lower pop bumper. It has always been very touchy and problematic. Either it won't work or its sporadic. Very hard to get the adjustment right, I figured. Close inspection showed me that the dang switch spoon was NOT centered on the pop but was actually off by 3/16" or so. Its a wonder it ever worked at all since the ball had to completely deflect the ring at just the right angle to get the switch to even close. Came that way from the factory! I repositioned the switch so the spoon is now centered and it works like a champ. Also on the list was the shooter since installing the new ramp made for a terrible shot. A few adjustments were made and I disassembled and cleaned the rod. Also added a little dry silicone to the rod. I can now go a full round on the skill shot past 100k. The only "problem" I have left is the right flipper. I can rarely complete the left ramp if I hit it just right. The ramp is new and I have adjusted the flipper but it still doesn't seem to travel quite as far as the left flipper does. New coil and nylon tube also. Any suggestions?

Coil stop thickness different on that one flipper? A trick I recently learned for hard ramp shots is I now set the flipper tip down by about 1/8" I would never have thought it works but it makes a huge difference on ramps.

2 months later
#2776 2 years ago
Quoted from Sackmonkey:

I am thrilled to finally join this club! Taxi is a great memory from my youth and I've always wanted one. This is also my first pin. This one seems to have a decent enough playfield, perfect boards, and a very nice cabinet and backglass.
Rather than go through the 178 questions I have, I'm going to focus on the one thing that's bugging me most: about half the time, the gate at the top is closed and prevents getting the Gorbie shot. I'm not certain how it works, but I'm assuming that the sensor bar up the right side is supposed to be the trigger to open the gate? Is it more likely that the sensor is the problem, or the gate itself? (or am I misunderstanding the operation altogether?).
The gate always properly closed when coming off the skillshot, btw.
Gorbie is one of the easiest shots and to keep missing it again and again due to a malfunction is frustrating.
Another interesting observation that may or may not be relevant: we were playing a 3 player game and my daughter had gone upstairs for a few minutes. While we waited for her to come back to play her ball, the machine sat idle. Then every several seconds it made a sound and the score accumulated (5000 points each time, I think). It did it 5 or 6 times, then stopped. I haven't seen it since and have no idea if it might be relevant to my Gorbie gate problem.
I'm slowly reading through this thread (up to about page 25 or 56 now) and haven't seen anyone else experience the same problems yet.
Thanks for any help!
Rob

Perform the solenoid test, that gate should click up and down. If it is clicking it means it is electrically active but may not be pulling up enough to clear the ball. It is in a tough spot to get at without removing a ramp. Adjustment is from below the playfield if I recall correctly. Also do the switch test and check that the switch where the ball enters up at the right side gate is registering in the switch test.

1 month later
#2836 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Working on a Taxi for a friend of mine. I had the MPU sent out to Eugene Mosh. He fixed a column issue and installed NVRAM and sent it back to me.
When the game is in coil test all 3 pop bumpers fire fine. But when you play a game the spoon switches wont trigger the pops. Eugene said I can send the boards back no problem. But before I do that, I wanted to get the general consensus that this isnt just a silly wiring problem.
My spoon switch and wiring match my friends taxi spoon switch wiring. But here's a pic for reference.
Thoughts? I've tested both of the 7402 chips for the special solenoids. They test good in my chip tester. [quoted image][quoted image]

Are the bumper switches working in the switch test?

1 week later
#2868 1 year ago
Quoted from Microvolt:

Noticed after a couple of games tonight that two pop bumpers do not consistently fire upon a light ball touch, as I would expect them to. Where would you start looking at?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If they are actually working but need a healthy hit to make them fire, start with the switch gap underneath. There is a switch for activating the solenoid and a second one for doing the scoring. You want the one closer to the playfield. Use a doubled up Post-It Note type paper between the contacts, manually actuate the solenoid to close the switch on the paper, rub the paper back and forth a few times. I usually follow that with a spritz of contact cleaner but that is optional. The look at the gap, it should be .04-.06" or so gap. When it gets too small, you get false firing of the solenoid, if that happens, just open the gap a bit. Do your adjustments with the machine off. You can short the switch to the solenoid high power on a System 11 and cook the switch logic.

3 weeks later
#2956 1 year ago

On mine, the entrance to the wire form was a big part of the problem.

5 months later
#3080 1 year ago
Quoted from Trainmonger:

Hi, i don't if this thread is still active, but i have owned a Taxi pinball for 12 years, i played them when they were new in 1988, i haven't played mine in about ten years, it always had display issues and i picked up a spare display some years ago and it works somewhat, some segments are out, i know pinscore made an led replacement, but they are no longer available and Rottendog makes one, but i don't know if is will work in a Taxi machine, their number is DIS240, but they don't list Taxi or High speed as machines this display will fit, although it looks the same as my display, anyone have any info if this can be swapped in for the original display

I find Pinscore often go out of stock, but keep coming back every so often, you can sign up to be notified. I bought this one about 2 years ago, and it was out of stock then too.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/426?S_CAT1=PINSCORE

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