Mine is the same one

Thanks for the info much appreciated. As my Taxi was imported to Australia from Europe it is likely the euro coin box is original to the machine. I have the cab bracket but not the retaining strap which I will need to fabricate once I procure a coin box. This is a pic of the coin box in the machine when purchased which I assume is not original???

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Going through my parts bin and came across these...Topper decal and some target decals....how's 8.00 plus whatever it costs to ship them to you...PM me...

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edit- spoken for....

Where would you tap into GI for this mod?

It's a 12v led strip connected to a 9v DC power supply. It doesn't tap into the native GI.

I have a surge protector mounted in the cab that it plugs into. The surge protector plugs into the internal service outlet. I wired the outlet so the master switch turns the service outlet on and off. Easily reversible mod.

Sorry if this issue has been discussed before but I am tired and do not have the energy to do the research.

Has anyone added LED strip lighting in the backbox behind the Backglass on their Taxi? And does it do anything?

Thanks

I would imagine it would light up part of the backbox, yes.

I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you having issues seeing the backbox? It's fairly well lit with the original illumination. I would be more apt to look for brighter LEDs than to add strip lighting. Also you need to be mindful of the reflection off of the playfield if it is too bright.

Semi unrelated, but Taxi has lots of light bleed from the Williams Pinball Palace Marquis, traffic signal, and light bleed to the jackpot display. I added foam seals to separate the light, and what a difference it made.

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I guess I am just always looking to brighten up my game. I have a strip light under the Arrivals ramp that really brightens up the top of the game and I was wondering if the strip lights could brighten up areas of the Backglass. I was hoping someone had tried it so I would not have to go through the trial and error process.....Again.

DISPLAY ISSUE

Started up my game today and the XPin display that I have for the Jackpot scoring has a problem - All of the horizontal lines in the middle of the numbers will not light (So the 8 looks like a 0). Since it happens on all the numbers I assume it is not the display but in a connection somewhere. Anyone have any thoughts as to where the problem might be. Thanks.

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I'd reseat the display ribbon connectors, but if it persists I'd reach out to XPin for advice.

Check for any loose pins from the board to the glass. Resolder if needed.

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. This is the link including the fix: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1988-taxi-jackpot-7-digit-display-missing-lower-line-fonts#post-7766919

Thanks for the help. I pulled off the ribbon cable from the Jackpot Display to the main Display Board. I cleaned the pins and reset the cable and the display now works. Always amazes me how these connections just go and then a little cleaning and they start working again.

Just saw this and was going to chime in, but you figured it out! I was going to make the same suggestion. Cables are often an issue in this situation.

what about spotlight kits from comet?

can u check my alignment? just got this seems a little high off the dots but then in alignment with the rails

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The correct alignment is a toothpick or small allen wrench, in the playfield hole, between the rubber and the flipper bat.

NOT against the rubber is as seen a lot.

Game designers have the flippers set to play a particular way.

People alter this to get the games to play easier, or at least differently.

I usually start with the original setup and may or may not, "adjust" to address game-play issues.

Sometimes "up a bit", or in some cases "drooped down a bit".

Alignment to align with the guide rails is common, but NOT entirely right for all games.

Mostly I stay pretty close to the original plan so that each of my games has their own distinct character.

so im correct in assuming mine need to sag down

yes, or follow my instructions in the post above.

I’m getting significant ball hop on the right lane only.

Anything fixable today without having to order cliffys?

You could try seeing if the flipper bushing has any play in it if you loosen up and see if you can tighten it in the lower position. I’ve had some success with that but not sure if it’ll work for significant hop.

You'll need to drill/dremel out your playfield to correct the flipper hop. It's well worth it.

I have bent the metal inlane rail forward to fix this on mine.

My bell stopped working!

i'm wondering why my wiring looks different than everyone elses. the big disc thing is connected to the same place the yellow wire is, and not to lower left post like normal.

it also doesn't have the second red "stick" coming out of the bottom if it.

it worked a week ago, now it doesn't.

i'm looking for the cheapest/easiest fix. please and thanks!

(i'm going to try adjusting the contacts so they're barely touching).

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I found that it gets bent out of shape and stops working after awhile

i fixed it. i just bit the bullet and resoldered the stuff that looked goofy. then i realized it wasnt getting the 50v so it was fuse f1.

I upgraded my flippers yesterday to later Wpc hardware. Holy crap. What a difference. Should’ve done it years ago. Left ramps a dream now. I recommend it highly.

What exactly did you replace, part#'s?

The only real difference is using the extension spring vs the conical spring usually found on Sys 11 flippers. Marco includes both springs in the rebuild kits so you can decide which one you want to use. The extension springs are a bit snappier and don’t chew on the linkages like the older conical ones do.

So I replaced the base plates, end stops, and linkages and springs. As mentioned above it could just be the springs which make the difference. I can’t comment on that. The newer linkages have the metal tab on them to accommodate the spring and I think you’ll need the Wpc eos bracket as well to attach the spring to.

It's more because you just replaced all the parts that were worn with new ones.

nah, they were all new and fresh after a restore. The new parts made a big difference

I fitted a flipper rebuild kit in mine a while back that were spare for my fish tales, much more snappy and powerful. I extended the springs a bit to reduce the power lol.

You can buy those little metal tabs separately, or if you buy the marco kit, they're included. I always drill a small hole into the switch mounting tab to accommodate the extension spring. No need to buy a whole new mounting bracket. I've converted all my System 11s to WPC that way.

mbaumle When you get a chance, can you snap a photo of what you are talking about so I can visualize your mod/upgrade?
Thanks.

I can get you. I have one I’m about to redo. Give me about 10 mins
First one is Earthshaker, although it had already been rebuilt, it wasn’t by me, they opted to use the traditional system 11 setup.
The second pic is whirlwind, when I rebuilt that one, I opted to use the stronger WPC setup

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No problem, but jmckune beat me to it. Just drill a hole in the tab the yellow capacitor is zip tied to, and that’s where the other end of the extension spring goes.

Was there a yellow topper ever made? Mine does not appear to have been painted and I’m having trouble believing it “yellowed” to this color.

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Its yellowed/faded. Its only 35 years old...

Sun, nicotine/tar and time.

It makes sense that it needs a full restoration, like everything else on this particular machine. Just threw me off because it matches the yellow paint really well and doesn’t look dingy. My whirlwind topper was faded and discolored but more brown than yellow.

I spray painted my yellowed topper white again. Looks great in a lit room, but in a dark room with the topper lit it looks 'splotchy' from the paint. I can live with that for $100+ in my pocket.

Looks painted by the texture of it.

If unsure scrape it a bit in the rear by the base of it.

That topper has obviously been painted. This is what a normal 35 year old original Taxi topper (with fade) looks like. Some of you guys need to clean your bifocals...

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That topper has not been painted, it's aged, and it shows. Your tip off would be the decal, it's fairly white under the clear decal, and there is no evidence of paint along the edge of the decal. Mine was equally faded before replacement.

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HEY, what do you mean?

Has anyone removed the rails on one of these? There appear to only be two carriage bolts holding them in place. Surely Williams hid some ridiculous additional obstacle to removal in there somewhere. Perhaps some of that white nasa grade loctite they were so fond of?

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It's glued in place.