What’s the best guess at the make and model of the car on the side of Taxi’s cabinet?

I can't find any pics of the connection to the boards right now, but here is the connector at the topper board.

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A 56 Chevy Bel Air?? Coming from a Brit I’d take that with a pinch of salt.

Post images of the connectors at 2J7, 2J11 and 2J12. If you want you post an area image of these. More images = better. Images should be well illuminated and in focus for best results. I need to see what you have to figure out what's missing.

This helps fill in information. Coupled with the requested images above it should be obvious what wires go where.

Thanks, not sure if the [2] in front of the connector is for Aux Power Driver board or Back box Interconnect Board but I will post all of them.

The Aux Power Driver board pictures:
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Backbox Interconnect Board pictures:

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NOTE: I do not have a Taxi and have not worked on one. All of the following is from the manual and information contained therein.

</disclaimer>

Here's the enumeration.

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This is the topper connector. Annotated. Note the wire colors.

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This the solenoid table.

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Note the wire colors for solenoid 6C and 7C. They match the topper connector. The "1d" designation means "1 flasher in the dome".

This is the wiring for the interconnect board. Relevant headers are 2J7 and 2J11.

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These are the corresponding wires in the connectors for 2J7 and 2J11.

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You will need to trace those wires up to the backbox (insert) and see where they go. The general illumination may or may not split but the solenoid 6C and 7C should be just a single termination.

If you are uncertain then post some images of the wiring in the backbox up to the topper.

I FOUND IT!!!! Following along 2J11-10 (solenoid 6C) was the solution, the previous owner routed the cable behind the other cables, under the clips, with the connector behind the CPU board. Maybe to hide the fact that the topper board was missing.

Thanks Bellagio and especially DumbAss who is definitely not dumb!

Just picked this up, few things to work out. Skill shot was Terrible, red spring added and some adjustments now just about ok.
Need to look at the topper, all there but not lighting up and bell not working again all there.
Flippers need rebuilding but managed 5.3 mil earlier, cool game. Will be putting it next to fish tales eventually.

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EBD, Walking Dead and Taxi are all part of my current line up. Choices approved!

Nothing better to do today but work on Taxi!
Fixed the bell, just had to file down the contacts as even though they were touching tight there was no connection, topper had bad lamps and used WPC flipper parts to make the flippers snappy and stronger. Managed to blow right flipper F5 fuse somehow, contacts were gapped good

All working great and my wife said it’s probably her favourite now so good result as she didn’t like Robocop so that’s on its way out now even though I liked it but I have recently sold her favourite game so it’s only fair.

Playing great now.

I think a 87 Chevy caprice and got one of these to customize and add to the topper. The front of the taxi plastic is a little more rounded.

https://www.diecastdirect.com/product/20585/NYC-Taxi

Bumping question before ordering plastic playfield posts from Marco.

It’s blue everywhere. Yours looks lighter from the incandescent bulbs bleaching the color after 30 years

Christmas arrived early, so I’m officially now in the club! Can’t thank my buddy Dale enough for send this out west to me. This one’s going to get the fully treatment. Hardtop, decals, new back glass, plastics, legs, side rails, ocd led…..etc etc. So excited to own this title

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Thank you!

Does anyone have an extra working main display for Taxi? (D-12232-2) My lower display is dead. I believe Police Force has this same display revision

Preferably original, but open to XPin or Pinscore, both are out of stock at the moment.

Hey guys, my Taxi came with a pre-packaged set of LEDs from pinballbulbs.com, and I plan on using Comet leds with the OCD-LED board. Could anyone use these? Would love to trade for a topper. Sadly mine was missing. PM me to discuss.

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I could use advice on a weak left flipper. I recently rebuilt both flippers, upgraded them to Fliptronic style and both flippers have been snappy since then. Today I happened to hit the jackpot not once, but twice (I never hit it before)! Shortly after that the left flipper got weak and I limped through the rest of my plays (the right flipper continued to play fine). Afterwards I pulled up the playfield and checked the connections, sleeve, stroke, EOS, flipper button, etc, and everything seems to be ok.

So now I'm wondering if maybe all the jackpot excitement might have over-juiced something somewhere. How can I check this? I have a multimeter but not sure where to begin. Is there a multimeter walkthrough for System 11s, or Taxi specifically?

And anything else I should consider?

If you think you've ruled out mechanical causes then it's likely to be electrical. Start by checking F5 and F6 on the Auxiliary Power Driver board. When checking the fuse be sure to pull one end of the fuse out of the fuse holder. Do not just visually inspect the fuse. Measure continuity with a multimeter.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11

Thank you for responding. I marked the flipper shafts along with the pawls with a Sharpie to rule out drift/creep, so the issue doesn't seem mechanical. Bottom line is the shaft of the flipper hasn't moved, and the bat of the flipper hasn't moved, either. The left flipper movement is weak, but the right flipper stays strong.

Thank you for replying. I'm simply not versed on how to check fuses yet so once I've worked through this I'll get back to you. And although I appreciate the link the the pinwiki, that page has an overwhelming amount of info. Yet I feel up to the task.

Funnily enough after I put WPC flipper parts on mine they went a bit weird then only the right stopped working, it was F5 fuse that went. I readjusted the EOS switches as well and all is good.

Ok, I fixed my weak flipper and learned a lot in the process. The problem was the EOS not making complete contact although I was convinced it was by only looking at it. In case this helps anyone else, this is what I did. After checking F5 and F6 fuses (they were both fine), I set the multimeter to Ohms (Ω) at 200 and put the leads on the outer posts of each flipper coil. The weak flipper read much higher than the good flipper (~170Ω vs ~5Ω). When I opened the EOS on the good flipper it jumped to 170Ω, too, so that made me realize just looking at the EOS was not good enough. After bending it a bit more, all is good.

Thanks everyone!

Would like to see the results of installing this board on your machine - keep us posted!

I had an interesting experience playing my Taxi the other evening. I got multi-ball and somehow both of them simultaneously ended up in the left shooter (Dracula). The shooter activated and jammed up a bit, then on the second attempt it shot one ball up the ramp and the other one sort of went airborne off to the right. Has this ever happened to anyone else?

It was pretty cool, but I was sort of worried when it happened that something might get damaged. All is well though.

Meh, that's pinball.

Hi, i don't if this thread is still active, but i have owned a Taxi pinball for 12 years, i played them when they were new in 1988, i haven't played mine in about ten years, it always had display issues and i picked up a spare display some years ago and it works somewhat, some segments are out, i know pinscore made an led replacement, but they are no longer available and Rottendog makes one, but i don't know if is will work in a Taxi machine, their number is DIS240, but they don't list Taxi or High speed as machines this display will fit, although it looks the same as my display, anyone have any info if this can be swapped in for the original display

I find Pinscore often go out of stock, but keep coming back every so often, you can sign up to be notified. I bought this one about 2 years ago, and it was out of stock then too.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/426?S_CAT1=PINSCORE

Man, I really miss my Taxi. I’ve had 2. Need another

I have installed quite a few of these OCD and Afterglow boards and I can tell you without even installing it that you will see a nice on/off fading led which gives a better overall effect.
I will not install LED’s into inserts without one, I’m just putting warm white leds in the GI on mine and leaving incandescents in the inserts for now as I know it will annoy me and not look right to me anyway.
Some people don’t mind the instant on and off though with LED’s, wish I was one of them lol

Who is building version 1.4 right now?

I don’t know but I first got Afterglow through Vimtoman then Stumblor was doing them, I think Stumblor is still going to sell them but do not know when or which version but they were going to be easier to build. Still testing I’m guessing.

Just finished kind of restoring the playfield etc as it was horrible. Removed all art on inserts and polished, cutting compound on the playfield then magic eraser to remove the rest if the ball marks. Then fitted a playfield insert kit and protector. Plus other stuff but it’s gone from an ugly duckling to a Marilyn!
Playing really nice now.
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Wonderful work!

In the picture the flipper bat plastic should be aligned with the alignment hole, if they are adjusted properly.

Lostcause Well done on the Taxi work! It looks fantastic. I hope to own one that nice eventually.

Thanks.
I thought you were supposed to put a cocktail stick or something in the hole then rest the flipper on it, but have also heard what you are saying.
If I lower the flipper the cradle angle will be very low, I put WPC flipper rebuild kits on. Left one has moved up a bit even though I roughed it up.
Only annoying thing is flipper hop from the inlanes, left is worse and not sure how to stop that as no adjustment.

You put a toothpick/drill bit/allen wrench etc. in the hole between the rubber and the bat.

If the bat moves in a fresh rebuild it needs to be tightened more, but dont break off the bolt.

Roughing up the shaft hasnt helped me at all. So i don't bother.

The rubber helps to keep the toothpick in place when adjusting.

If you use a metal pin, DO NOT FORGET TO PULL IT OUT.

It WILL scratch the playfield if you opetate the flipper with it still in place.

Can you post a vid of the hop?

Thanks for the info, I will take some footage and post it here this weekend. Very annoying as it makes it very hard to keep hitting the ramps which when I do is very satisfying. I’m surprised how much I like this game, the look of it never appealed to me. I love it and so does my wife

Just picked up a Taxi as a first pin and its been fantastic, done a few tiny fixes on it already to get used to working on a machine.
I have one quick question relating to the volume—The pot on the inside of the cabinet works great, however it only seems to affect the music volume and not the volume of the callouts and speech. The music is at a reasonably low volume but all the speech is very loud. I've seen some posts about bypassing the resistor wired to the volume pot to make it quieter, but it seems like that would only affect the music volume.

Is this expected behavior? If so, is there any way to change the callout volume?

Edit- Fixed! Volume connector ended up being misaligned

I bent the return lanes forward a bit and has fixed it, they were leaning back slightly.

……

Can anyone take a picture of there coin door 3 button menu controls. Focusing on the wires underneath the buttons. I
Need to sort out why mine aren't working. Thanks anyone!!

Let me know if you need any others, tried to get best angles.

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Seeking help. The wire needs adjustment for the kick out under the spin out. If it is bent up like a tent or rollover the the ball can’t get past it. If it’s straight it seems to tuck under the playfield. How should the mechanism work and the wire look that the ball rolls over?

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That kicker looks like its installed backwards? Is it missing the switch?

Someone please verify.

Looks great. Can you kindly pass the link to the playfield insert kit? I've tried the decals from Ministry of Pinball and when they are illuminated from underneath then the text and color wash out, making me think that I can't use LEDs with the decals.

Selling a restored and CC PF. Should be easier to work with vs. a CPR.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/147775