Looking for a set of Reeses' rails if someone has a set they're never going to use...shoot me a PM

I still have a lingering issue with my Taxi. The gameplay all works 100% now. But when I go into adjustments the start button wont change the setting. Start button works just fine to start a game. Why would that change in adjustments?

*solved*

Found out that my coin door interlock is missing and someone just rigged it with a quick spade connection.

Joined the club last night PXL_20220410_022633620 (resized).jpg

It's a Lolalyn. I can set this right with a Lola translite though

LOL, mine was just the opposite!

Want to swap translites?

I would, but my translite was all torn up and badly taped together lol. It was not usable so I bought a CPR mirrored backglass,

They are really nice!

I need to find out if this is a keeper for me

With game prices so high now, I have no problem putting money in them if they need it.

I dont know if its a keeper either, but its a really fun game and I come back to it often in my collection.

But I really love the backglass, its stunning.

I put a $500 backglass in my Farfalla! It completely changed the look for the better.

Hey all, just joined the club tonight by buying my first pin! The price was right and the seller delivered right to my door. Saw a nice MB in the delivery truck by the way, but waaay off budget…

The whole family is super excited, but unfortunately still need to wait for the trolley + a couple of friends to come over next week to drag it to the downstairs game room. Will try to leave the backbox on as I’m a bit afraid to mess something up trying to remove and reattach it.

Playfield shows some wear, but plastics seem ok. Power supply has been fully rebuilt (not sure what that exactly entails, lots to learn!), and displays are brand new.

What’s the general consensus on leds? Is the switch worth it (looking at a kit from pinballcenter)? What about the backbox? Have seen some WH20 and LOTR looking very artificial after conversion, but others are superb.

Guess I should be replacing rubbers and putting new balls in? Anything else to consider?

Will share pics once everything is setup. Thanks!

Microvolt - LEDs are pretty subjective to the user...they brighten up the playfield and inserts if done correctly. If they are done incorrectly (lots of color or cool white IMHO), they can detract from any game. I did my taxi playfield GI in warm white from Comet Pinball and I feel like it keeps the feel of the old incandescent lamps but with some added brightness. For the inserts, you want the Comet color matched (if the insert is red, you get a red bulb) non ghosting bulbs without the dome. Flashers can be changed but I feel like it can be skipped if you don't want to shell out the cash for them.

I did not replace any LEDs in the head other than the 5 for the sign and the three for the traffic signal. I have always felt the LEDs are way too bright in a backbox and cause a lot of glare on the glass. You should have a nice supply for replacements when you take them out of the playfield GI. You do not need the kit...go grab a list (or make your own like i did) of the bulb (wedge or bayonet) and the color and order them from comet. It will come out a lot cheaper especially if you skip the backbox.

Pictures are before and after a rebuild I did on mine about a month ago.

1FCF1B0C-BD6E-4EF7-AD0D-717016DFB595 (resized).jpeg

B74AD62D-5E81-4FC4-B319-AFB0A9860F7E (resized).jpeg

I would add -

LED’s under the ramp are a little bit of a pain because you need to remove them. Not a big deal, but they kind of interweave so take pictures before you start removing screws. And you’ll need to remove the catapult habitrail. Just a little bigger job than most games. But a good time to clean under there with the ramps off too.

Agree that Taxi is a bit of a dark LED’s in the GI really brighten it up. Also agree to go with 2smd frosted warm white from comet.

You might be interested in getting one of these for your departure ramp. Mine was cracked,and I never found a glue that would hold for more than a few weeks. Now I don't even think about the ramp anymore.
I also added comet sun light leds to the whole game,except for all of the flashers. And I think it came out excellent. If you do decide to add led's,you might as well replace the rubbers while you're at it.
https://mantispinball.com/product-category/taxi/

Just played a couple hours on my Taxi.

AWESOME game, definitely a keeper waiting for total restoration.

I hate admitting it, but I think Taxi might even be better than whirlwind—which is the game that tugs on my heartstrings the most.

Is anyone interested in my old display board and displays (have led displays now)...I believe some of the displays were not working according to the seller. I've never fired it up and it does look like some repairs were attempted...Free...just pay for shipping....
20220417_112820 (resized).jpg20220417_112826 (resized).jpg20220417_112839 (resized).jpg

edit- spoken for (tentatively)

Eh I had them both side by side. Taxi is gone. I sometimes miss it and it is definitely good but I’m not sure it tops WW.

Thanks all, finally managed to haul it downstairs together with a friend. Was a bit of a struggle due to a narrow landing, but we made the slide work at the end of the day. Slowly trying to learn the ropes as this is our first household pin.

Got a bit of a scare removing batteries as one had exp. 2003 ugh! Does not seem to have leaked though as far as I can tell. Lithiums are in for now.

Re LEDs, shipping from Comet to Europe is quite expensive. What do you make of this? Ir has some colored, for the inserts I assume.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/taxi/722/noflix-led-playfield-kit-for-taxi

Thanks for the advice on the ramp protector. Departure ramp is cracked, looks like there is already something there. Is this where the protector would go?

Noticed after a couple of games tonight that two pop bumpers do not consistently fire upon a light ball touch, as I would expect them to. Where would you start looking at?

26E8B6A6-581D-43CC-AABC-5DB2B4F8C585 (resized).jpeg

2F42E498-B9E3-43CF-99E6-ECB2EEC2A1F4 (resized).jpeg

79EB2AA6-92C7-4B53-804B-DB0739C0A4A5 (resized).jpeg

If they are actually working but need a healthy hit to make them fire, start with the switch gap underneath. There is a switch for activating the solenoid and a second one for doing the scoring. You want the one closer to the playfield. Use a doubled up Post-It Note type paper between the contacts, manually actuate the solenoid to close the switch on the paper, rub the paper back and forth a few times. I usually follow that with a spritz of contact cleaner but that is optional. The look at the gap, it should be .04-.06" or so gap. When it gets too small, you get false firing of the solenoid, if that happens, just open the gap a bit. Do your adjustments with the machine off. You can short the switch to the solenoid high power on a System 11 and cook the switch logic.

Correct on where the ramp protector goes. I could send you a picture of it installed if you want?

I just got one of these last week and was disappointed when I went to install it and found that the screw holes don't line up with the existing screws on the ramp. Did you have to re-drill new holes in your ramp? I'm wondering if maybe they sent the wrong model.

I have not installed one on my Taxi yet.

If you have trouble, contact Cliff. He might have a picture of it installed.

I have some pics on this post that shows where to go. I did have to drill new holes.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bringing-a-taxi-back-to-life-renew-and-refresh/page/3#post-6570935

Hey WesleyB I noticed that your flippers are adjusted quite a bit higher than the factory alignment holes. Is this intentional? If so, what is the result? On mine, if anything they are slightly low and actually cover the holes halfway if viewed from straight above. I'm wondering if I should make an adjustment.

Also, your machine looks amazing!

Factory adjustment Is with toothpicks between the rubber and the bat and inserted into the holes in the playfield.

They should droop slightly so you can make the lock, pinbot and drac targets easier.

Last week, I finally got the courage to peel the Mylar from my playfield. It was lifting up in some spots and affecting play, and for some reason a prior owner sliced the thing in a big diagonal line from lower left to upper right (sort of connecting the Express Lane 1 and 2 arrow lenses). Maybe they planned to pull it but changed their mind?? Maybe a random ginsu knife fell onto the playfield? I'll never know.

Anyway, I bought 3 cans of freeze spray and went to town. It was hugely successful and I had the whole thing off in about 20 minutes with zero paint lost. Then I spent probably 5-6 hours doing the Goo Gone gel and flour method to remove the adhesive. I thought that part was going to be a lot easier than it turned out to be!

After all is said and done, the Mylar did an amazing job protecting the playfield. That diagonal slice didn't cut into the playfield paint (though it did dent it slightly). I did my best to scrub the transition from perfect playfield (under Mylar) to the unprotected areas in the upper playfield and sides, but I still have more work to do. I tried naphtha, Novus 2, alcohol, etc, before finally resorting to the aggressive magic eraser and alcohol method. You can still pretty easily see the border-to-dirty on the Gorby and Santa entrances, and up next to the Marilyn drop targets.

Originally, I was strongly considering doing a hardtop on this. Now I'm definitely going to leave it as is. Since they are in perfect condition, I also chose to leave the factory-original half moon Mylar pieces next to the side bumpers.

Stupidly, I didn't take a good "Before" picture with the glass off. I posted the best old one I had, plus 4 "After" shots. I think I'll do a little more cleaning in the upper playfield and sides.

20220226_112333 (resized).jpg

20220410_141503 (resized).jpg

20220410_141514 (resized).jpg

20220410_141620 (resized).jpg

20220410_141643 (resized).jpg

I was excited to have the machine back in working order and had not adjusted the flippers before taking the picture. They are sitting at the stops now and the machine plays well.

That would be awesome, thanks! Am a bit concerned about taking the ramp out with these cracks, might have to sticky tape it prior to prevent it from cracking further?

Rubbers and ramp protector ordered last night. On to making the list for comet leds now. Would anybody have one at hand? Instruction manual lists 64 lights, but there are only 50 on the pinball center summary sheet… think that’s missing the GI below the ramps. Should I replace the flashers while I’m at it, or can this be done without moving the ramps?

Rapid Tac adhesive remover.

Removes all mylar adhesive in seconds. Wont hurt the playfield.

Here you go, Pinsider dmacy is the one who told me about this protector. It saved me a ton of work and money. Now the ramp will live another 34 years.
HTH

IMG_20220418_195202472 (resized).jpg

IMG_20220418_195301550 (resized).jpg

It looks like you added your own screws/holes. I'll do the same. Thanks for posting the pic.

Yes, I just held it to where I needed it,and screwed it in place. You might need to bend it a little to adjust the radius/curve a little. It bends pretty easy though.
Plus it hides the ugly cracks and failed glue attempts.

So I'm working on a taxi and there's this one way ball gate in the upper left hand corner which I believe you shoot for a jackpot. There is a spring connected to a wire form that lifts the ball gate up to let the ball pass by. My question is is that the correct spring? and if not what goes there? And I might need a new one cuz I don't think it's working properly, where would I get one?

PXL_20220422_042127729.NIGHT (resized).jpg

is it listed in the manual?

My display has been progressively fizzling out for years now and I think it's time to bite the bullet and replace it. I see XPin and Pinscore replacements. Any other options I'm missing? Pinscore seems out of stock for taxi. Xpin is not LED, correct? I like the color options with XPin and it seems a bit cheaper as well. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Thanks!

Some of their other products have issues, but I've had great luck with Rottendog displays and they were always less expensive than anything else.
https://www.thepinballwizard.net/rottendog-circuit-boards/williams-dual-16-digit-alphanumeric-display-classic-orange-dis240/

Wolfpack displays....you can build it yourself too or buy it complete...I've used them in two of my games...

I have Xpin displays. They are LED, and I've been very happy with them.

Thanks for the advice!

The one that is in the parts list is 10-194 but it is too long (2 1/8"). The one I found that worked with not much effort is Gottlieb A-1053
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-1053

This display looks identical to the one in taxi but doesn't include the meter bonus display. I actually only need the 16 digit display, my meter bonus is perfect. Will this work? I thought taxi 16 digit display had another extra ribbon connector to connect the meter bonus and this made the display in your link incompatible with taxi. Correct me if I'm wrong because this would be perfect if it's compatible.

Taxi isn't in the list of compatible games for any rottendog displays I see.

you will 100% need a compatible bonus/meter display. The original will not work with a newer 16 digit LED display. I have the pinscore system in two games (taxi and pinbot) and they are great. Make sure you get the tint strips to tone down the unlit display segments...they should come in the box but in my taxi, they forgot them. I contacted pinscore and had them a few days later.

I didn't know they made tint strips. I bought my displays almost 7 years ago and they didn't come with the displays at the time but the visibility of the unlit segments has always bothered me. I wonder if they can be bought separately?

Wolffpac all the way. Great product and outstanding customer support.

https://www.wolffpactech.com/product-page/williams-data-east-d-12232-2-display-kit

BTW, small bits of window tint film can be used to hide the segments of you want.

They can be bought or made from self adhesive window tint.

AE17EC9B-4B9A-4C65-BADF-AAB76974B3E7 (resized).jpeg

If you end up with a spring that is a little too long, Just cut a little off the spring and bend up one of the loops to install it.

If a spring is too strong, stretch it a little at a time until its where you want it.

How does the orange display look?

I would definitely build them if they had a color toggle to choose colors.

I have bought many Pinscore displays.

I am pleased with them over all. I especially like the brightness control.

The included hardware is sub par and should include spacers, but that's my tiny gripe.

The suggestion of using the old spacers does sorta work, but they are hard to install after being cooked for 30 years (cutting the feet off helps).

Invariably I just get new spacers that are a length a little closer to the wood, from ACE or Lowes.

I had orange for my Fire! And it was bang-on. Not sure if any of them offer colour changing but now I just use light gels from Amazon over white displays. Under $20 for a variety of colours. (Sorry aboot the Canadian spelling, eh?)

this is good to know, thanks!

Is there a difference in the “font” used between all these different LED displays? Are any of them more or less similar to the original plasma displays?