Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Do you tighten them cold or after a little warming up?
(Also... does it mess up the mylar??)

Quoted from Jmckune:

Just gonna have to count them. I usually buy 2 25 packs of 2SMD from comet for the GI, and then manually make a list of color matched non ghosting 1smd for inserts. Flashers I usually leave as incandescent unless a lot are burned out in which case I’ll switch those out. It’s tedious to count but worth it.
For the Taxi I had, I went with cool white for the GI, cool white behind all yellows, warm white for the characters, cool white for the 1 or 2 other white inserts there are and then the other ones are obvious. It looked pretty good to me
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ralphs007:

I heated mine and then tapped it down flush. In a weeks time it popped up again. Last week I heated it again and tapped it down flush. But this time I put some crazy glue on the inside of the inset. The I sprayed some activator on the crazy glue to fast cure it. So far the insert has stayed in place. I love this crazy glue and activator combination. I used it on the crown molding scarf joints when I remolded my kitchen this past March.

Quoted from ralphs007:

While I was counting the bulbs under the playfield,I replaced a bunch of the banonet bulbs with brand new bulbs. The playfield looked much better,when all of the riders in the center of the playfield were lit. But still dark when they're not lit. I think I'm gonna ad some spotlights over the left and right slings
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"09782178d6d2479e40b3ea5246fbb8b64ecdff3e-1636423592-1800"};
//]]>

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Factory insert glue is a type of non drying mastic. Inserts move all over the place.
Epoxy on the bottom edge of the inserts is preferred as its more shock resistant, and fixes inserts in place.
A little plastic primer helps epoxy to bond.
Crazy glue works but can crack off and loosen.
It also doesnt bond as well as epoxy with primer on oily plastics like inserts.
But it does work for awhile.

Quoted from ralphs007:

Thanks I'll have to pick some up. What brand do you recommend. I have JB weld,but it's black and it would probably be visible after it dries. I might have some of the stuff I use to use to build golf clubs. It definitely can handle a good amount of shock,and it dries clear.
Now would be a good time to use it while the crazy glue is still holding.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

JB weld clear 5 min epoxy for plastics is pretty good.
Just clean the surface with naptha, you should be ok.

Quoted from flipkidflip:

There are two flashers near the Spinout.... one in the northeast corner, and one due southwest of the middle of the Spinout hole.
I assume the southwest one is the 'Spinout Flasher', since nothing happens in test mode for Spinout Flasher, and I believe mine is dead.
The northeast one, though, I replaced with a flasher that I know works, but it did not flash in any test nor have I seen it flash in gameplay.
Can anybody help identify that flasher in the very back right of the playfield and when it is supposed to flash?
edit: well the flasher/solenoid diagram in the manual pretty clearly calls the upper right one the Spinout flasher (8C) and there is no label for the southwest one. It is above the playfield where I put the red arrow. In several youtube gameplay videos I've watched, the southwest one flashes as ball spins around Spinout. I still have not seen the northeast (8C) flasher flash anywhere. Side note, JOYRIDE flasher is also mislabled in the manual right? Manual points to the JOYRIDE insert (16), but the flasher is actually in the upper left corner of the PF. Right?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Jmckune:

Just gonna have to count them. I usually buy 2 25 packs of 2SMD from comet for the GI, and then manually make a list of color matched non ghosting 1smd for inserts. Flashers I usually leave as incandescent unless a lot are burned out in which case I’ll switch those out. It’s tedious to count but worth it.
For the Taxi I had, I went with cool white for the GI, cool white behind all yellows, warm white for the characters, cool white for the 1 or 2 other white inserts there are and then the other ones are obvious. It looked pretty good to me
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Y3AG3R:

I can't remember where i heard or saw this. Maybe in a Comet video on youtube but pink behind yellow looks awesome! It gives the yellow looks without blowing it out like the white does. I have one from the sample packs i bought from comet. I'll see if i can find it and try it out in taxi today. I haven't gotten this far on mine yet.

Quoted from ralphs007:

I think I read on Comets site that pink is also used for the orange inserts. It said all the cool kids are doing it,so I'm in.

Quoted from ralphs007:

Has anyone added a spotlight to there Taxi? I'm getting ready to change over to LEDs,and I saw that Comet has two and one headed spotlights. Not sure if I'm gonna add the one or the two headed spotlights to each sling.
My game Is pretty dark in the center until the passengers are lit up,but once they go out it's too dark for me.
Thanks in advance
Ralph

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Here’s mine. Not sure you could get double spot lights to fit?
[quoted image]

Quoted from ralphs007:

Looks like they might work. [quoted image]

Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

That’s twilight zone

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Is there anybody making reproduction ramps/spinout for Taxi?

Quoted from dmacy:

Not sure what the deal is but the price is right! I agree blue looks best too.
ebay.com link: Williams Taxi Pinball Spinout Spin Out Ramp with Ball Retainer NEW BLUE

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Saw that one.
Was thinking about it, but saw nothing for the Arrival/Departure ramps which need replacing as well.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Saw that one.
Was thinking about it, but saw nothing for the Arrival/Departure ramps which need replacing as well.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Is there anybody making reproduction ramps/spinout for Taxi? (Like the FreePlay40 ramps)

Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

I have a brand new red one still in the original packaging I'd sell for $20 plus shipping cost. I purchased both a red and blue one and tried the Blue one first and decided to keep it blue, so that's why I have a brand new red one. DM me if you want it. Here's what the blue one looks like on my machine:
[quoted image]

Quoted from killerrobots:

I redid my Taxi with all 2smd warm bulbs and it has a very pleasant amount of light. I like a bright game but IMHO Taxi is kind of a dark theme so it still has some shadows but has plenty to play by in a fully dark room. I don't think you need the spotlights. I tried them in my LotR and they really didn't add much light and I have had issues with the bulbs falling out and them moving around. I would recommend trying it with just the bulbs and then adding if you think you need them. To be honest if you really want more light a light bar (i.e. pinstadium type) is the way to go. You can make one yourself without too much trouble. That is what I ended up doing on my LotR.
[quoted image]

Quoted from flipkidflip:

There are two flashers near the Spinout.... one in the northeast corner, and one due southwest of the middle of the Spinout hole.
I assume the southwest one is the 'Spinout Flasher', since nothing happens in test mode for Spinout Flasher, and I believe mine is dead.
The northeast one, though, I replaced with a flasher that I know works, but it did not flash in any test nor have I seen it flash in gameplay.
Can anybody help identify that flasher in the very back right of the playfield and when it is supposed to flash?
edit: well the flasher/solenoid diagram in the manual pretty clearly calls the upper right one the Spinout flasher (8C) and there is no label for the southwest one. It is above the playfield where I put the red arrow. In several youtube gameplay videos I've watched, the southwest one flashes as ball spins around Spinout. I still have not seen the northeast (8C) flasher flash anywhere. Side note, JOYRIDE flasher is also mislabled in the manual right? Manual points to the JOYRIDE insert (16), but the flasher is actually in the upper left corner of the PF. Right?
[quoted image]

Quoted from ralphs007:

I think it looks 100% better with the LEDs. I think I'll skip the spotlights,and go with just the LEDs.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

OK.
I've got my new Spinout ramp (Blue) and the two other ramps on their way.
Never swapped out ramps before.
Any tips tricks I should know going into this? Any help much appreciated. I scoured Youtube looking to see any tear down videos and found nothing. I swapped out a bunch of star posts and most rubbers. Still to do the ones under the ramps. Any tips on dealing with T-nut (?) fixings that spin on the bottom of the playfield preventing you from removing the screw also appreciated.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

OK.
I've got my new Spinout ramp (Blue) and the two other ramps on their way.
Never swapped out ramps before.
Any tips tricks I should know going into this? Any help much appreciated. I scoured Youtube looking to see any tear down videos and found nothing. I swapped out a bunch of star posts and most rubbers. Still to do the ones under the ramps. Any tips on dealing with T-nut (?) fixings that spin on the bottom of the playfield preventing you from removing the screw also appreciated.

Quoted from ralphs007:

I read in the System 11 club, that you should heat the T-nut with a soldering iron,when you're removing the post. They may have used some kind of lock-tite when it was built?
.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Interesting.
So just touch the metal with the iron I guess??

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Interesting.
So just touch the metal with the iron I guess??

Quoted from Jmckune:

You can do that, I opted to just break the posts and t-nuts as they are both cheap and it saved a significant amount of time trying to heat up and remove old hardware

Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Aaaaaand it seems that W1 and W2 are just zero ohm resistors. So a piece of wire should do the trick. (Jumper) The trick of course is being ready to switch it off quick if the short is still in the system.

Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Here's a look at the ramp that was way past its expiration date...
The old red one had a thin strip of metal in it for reinforcement, maybe?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ralphs007:

My pop bumper lamp socket broke the other day. Could I just solder this one to the existing lamp socket leads? I was getting ready to order the pop bumper lamp socket from Marco,and I saw this lamp socket .
[quoted image]

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Adjusting the ball trajectory (and replacing the shooter rubber and silver spring) got me easily 10 to 14 spins!

Quoted from Jmckune:

I mean you can try, but calling those “improved” is a stretch to me. They never fit underneath the pop bumper cap right and they usually fall over because nothing supports them staying upright. Just get the new metal ones and do it the right way, it’s not bad.</blockquot

Disappointed, but motivated. The ramp looks great but I am lucky to get 3 spins so far. Got the red spring and a good shooter tip. The crappy old ramp gave me 5-6 spins so I have some adjusting to do! Also, it is wonderful to have all the GI back!
Shawn