Just double checking . Is Naphtha safe to use on a Taxi playfield. I'm thinking it is,but I'd like to check just in case.
Thanks in advance

Yes.

Thank you.

Can anyone help with the relay wiring for the backbox light panel? I’m repairing but with the hacks on the relay and wiring, I want to make sure the wiring and relay wasn’t modified.

This is what I have.

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Huge thanks to DumbAss again. From him, “ GI relays are wired the same way. Their job is to turn OFF the GI when the relay is energized. Therefore the two sets of GI wires should be connected to the "NC" terminals.
1=1C
2=2C
3=-
4=1NC
5=2NC
6=1NO
7=2NO
Therefore one set of wires (GRN) should be connected to either 1C/1NC or 2C/2NC. The other set of wires (BRN) should be connected to either 1C/1NC or 2C/2NC. It doesn't matter if GRN is connected to 1 or 2 or BRN is connected to 1 or 2. It only matters that GRN matches GRN (i.e. 1 and 1 or 2 and 2) and BRN matches BRN (i.e. 1 and 1 or 2 and 2).”

And just to add proof of concept:

IMG_6880[1] (resized).jpg

I was thinking of going with digital relays from LEDOCD for long term durability.

Thoughts on this? I bought all three of them...

I used them in mine and they work great. Only thing to know going in is that you will have to slightly modify the wiring from original.

Is there a wiring diagram to follow?

http://www.ledocd.com/install_sys11_gi_r2.html

If you need any help with the specific wire colors for Taxi let me know and I can dig up the pics from mine.

Thanks, will do.
Someone should make a simple easy to follow, step by step instruction for this modification, at least for taxi.

Hey gang! I flipped on my Taxi only to find that half the playfield GI is out: basically the entire right hand side, including the rollover lanes up top.

I absolutely suck at diagnosing GI problems, so help narrowing things down would be appreciated.

My current thought process is that a wire broke the daisy chain under the playfield, but I don’t see an issue. Is there a header on the interconnect that specifically drives this chain of lamps?

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Find the color of the wires on that string and trace them back. Cold solder, burnt connector, or blown fuse is likely the cause.

I'd like to replace my rubber rings ,but the manual isn't very helpful,unless I missed something?
This is the list I found, and it doesn't seem right? Plus there's no diagram showing where the rings go ?

Screenshot_20211101-204628-344 (resized).png

Taxi has the rubber ring size printed directly on the playfield… there is one odd sized one. The one leading up to Santa on the left is 5”, I believe.

Thank you .

Thank you

It looks like the yellow/white-yellow string. The purple string is the one that's working. Wiggling the connectors on both the interconnect and the relay under the playfield don't yield any results, so it could be a fuse.

No changes. Just flipped the game on the other day and noticed it.

When I get home from work, I'll check fuses. I'm not convinced it's a transistor, since I believe the playfield GI is all controlled through the single relay under the playfield?

I had this exact same issue (I think mine might have been the right side out, but either way, only one side was out). It ended up being the GI relay board located under the playfield. It is located toward the back right side on the bottom of the playfield. I could push the connector forward and get them to turn on, but as soon as I released it the one side would turn back off. I replaced that part and the wire connector to it and it fixed the issue 100%. I would take a pic for you, but I'm not at home right now. I hope this makes sense.

I believe this is the part: https://pinparts.co.uk/products/system-11-gi-relay-board-new

EDIT: see this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/taxi-playfield-gi-partially-out

Just picked up a Taxi... looks nice next to my HS

Question... is there a way to turn off the bell?

You can disable it in the service menu.

I have played it both ways, now I really like the bell for the jackpots etc. It wakes the game up!

Awesome... my wife and dog thank you

Got a taxi few weeks back with battery damage. Got a new board from Dumbass in and got it fired up. Everything but one flipper i need to repair is working but I am only getting music and sound effects from the game,
no Ooh Taxi or other voices?
Is there somewhere I should look to fix it. Both sound eroms seem to be installed correctly on the dumbass board.

Just reading on the machine a bit.
Is the Marilynn playfield rare?

Most games now have the marilyn playfield and backglass.

Lola seems more rare today.

Yeah,I had to turn mine off too. My wife is on the other side of the wall in the family room. I’m tempted to remove the drywall,and install some sound attenuation fiber glass,also know in the trade as Rotten Cotton! If you ever worked with the stuff,you’d know why it got that nickname.

Ok. This is an original playfield I believe.

They made both from the factory...Marylin first, then Lola after. I have a Lola example.

Not down playing anybody's preference, but it's such a trivial thing to me about the Lola vs Marylin debate. Does the 3/4 inch insert and barely different back glass illustration of this one character really make that much difference to people? I never even think about it, let alone notice it, when I'm playing any version of Taxi.

Agree. Everyone wants to tell you how rare Marilyn is and then show you the one they have.

I have an original Marilyn playfield in my game. It was missing the translite but has original Marilyn sound. People pull out the original Marilyn translites and sell them to collectors pretty often. Those are rare.

Also, hybrid games with Marilyn playfield and Lola translites are fairly common. They usually have Lola sound ROM's.

I bought a CPR Marilyn backglass to replace my missing translite. Its really nice!

I imagine that nearly all games will have Marilyn playfields and backglass at some point, as they get restored.

The only real issue is the sound ROM. Ive seen Marilyn restored games with incorrect Lola ROM's.

Lola games have a newer version ROM than marilyn games, the call outs are different for Lola.

So, if you want a Marilyn game, check that the sound ROM is correct.

A Fully restored Lola game, with new playfield and backglass, is going to be pretty rare I think.

If they make Pinsound for Taxi, I would be inclined to do a Lola version with Harvey Fierstein callouts for the Lola character. It would make Python proud and likely laugh.

I have a Marilyn translite and a Lola playfield, Lola ROMs and a Marilyn key fob.

I agree 100% with making the jackpot range as tight as possible - I think mine allowed 1 million min and 1.5 million max. The other setting I prefer is turning off the skill shot multiplier. I find it allows too many points to be scored on the plunge alone compared to the rest of the game scoring, especially if you have extra balls on. Getting 400K for a skill shot is too much in my opinion when you only get 300K for the multiball express lanes and 1M for the maxed ramps objective.

Agree completely. I wish there was even an option to have memory on the ramp progress too. Note there's also a custom rom floating around which lets you set the min and max jackpot to the same value if you just want to keep it 'fixed'

So my taxi suffers from a bent shooter rod i guess because the spring on the outside of the cab is shot.

I have a Stern AIQ shooter rod that i replaced, could i use that for my Taxi? i could take mine out and check but i am lazy and figured someone might know the answer already.

Any chance anyone has a list of all the bulbs needed for a Taxi? I did a search,but nothing really helpful popped up. I also checked the manual,but all I found was a list of all the flashers needed,and a page that just listed all of the lamps,but it didn't specify what type of bulb.
Thanks in advance
Ralph

Just gonna have to count them. I usually buy 2 25 packs of 2SMD from comet for the GI, and then manually make a list of color matched non ghosting 1smd for inserts. Flashers I usually leave as incandescent unless a lot are burned out in which case I’ll switch those out. It’s tedious to count but worth it.

For the Taxi I had, I went with cool white for the GI, cool white behind all yellows, warm white for the characters, cool white for the 1 or 2 other white inserts there are and then the other ones are obvious. It looked pretty good to me

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Thank you ! I started my count yesterday,and I also added 2 x25 pack of smd from comet,for the backbox and the playfield. A Pinsider doing a Taxi restore also recommended non Ghosting LEDs for the inserts.
Thanks again for the help!

So... got a Taxi two weeks ago.
Works great for the most part: but two things I'd love guidance on from the smart kids:

- I have a few raised inserts that are under the mylar. I know usually you can warm the insert with a hairdryer and lightly tap them back down; but can this be done through the mylar?

- I get a random Tilt once in a while. It usually happens right after it passes through the C-A-B lanes and hits the Pop Bumper. Any ideas what would cause it? There is 0 movement in the cabinet when it happens.

I have the same condition on mine. I used a deep throated C-clamp to press down on a hard wood block on the top of the playfield. I used a 2 part epozy from the back side to secure the edges of the inserts to their holes. You likely have to remove some pieces underneath to make room for the clamp. I glue 1-2 inserts at a time if the clamp can press down on that many, let it cure for about an hour and then move to the next one.

Thank you!
I will try that when I have a bit of time to play.

Do you tighten them cold or after a little warming up?
(Also... does it mess up the mylar??)

No problem! When making your count for the inserts, don’t forget the traffic light in the backbox. Those 3 are also controlled lamps

I use a nice flat and smooth piece of oak on the playfield side. It leaves no impressions on the old mylar. If no mylar I put wax paper down first under the wood block. The hot versus cold thing does not seem to have much effect in my experience, especially on System 11s. Williams used some large rectangular inserts and they really move around. The adhesive lets go locally and the variations in wood/plastic movement slowly detach the bond. This is not a hot/cold issue. If the adhesive was instead creeping and accommodating movements I would think heating it might help but I don't think that is what is happening. I notice that arrow inserts really tip up at the arrow tip end and you can easily push them down but they spring up again. The arrow tip adhesive has let go.

Chances are the mylar is a bit tented up over the raised insert. This has saved your insert from being chipped apart. But it stays detached even when the insert is pushed back down. Trying to fix that has a lot more risk and trying to fill it is actually quite a large volume. It is not like trying to wick CA glue under a delaminated chunk of clear coat. The mylar gap is quite large. Best thing I do is prick it with a pin and press it down again now that the air can get out but it is of limited success. A really tented section will definitely stay much lower down though.

Just joined the club this weekend! Love it.

I bought it as a restore package deal, so it came along with a new CPR PF, new Arrival/Departure/Spinout ramps and a set of new plastics. I am torn on trying to sell the parts, attempt a PF swap, or have someone do the swap for me.

The machine is in quite good condition as is, so it doesn't neeed a restore, but man, it would be sweet.

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Beautiful.
thank you for this!