https://images.app.goo.gl/zL8QgjgpWWxoMHZu8

Is It better to install one of those assemblies to replace my assemblies?
How do I connect them to my wire harness?

Just buy a system 11 flipper rebuild kit, with Taxi, the lane change switch is next to the flipper buttons instead of on the EOS like most games. You can already see the damage not having a capacitor installed has done as that EOS switch looks heavily corroded.

One like in the link I posted?
Do I need to change anything when I swap led instead of the bulbs?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLKIT This one will do you good. You can put leds in and they will work fine. Would recommend non ghosting bulbs for inserts so they don’t stay slightly illuminated when they should be off.

If you have a supplier closer to you in Germany, that will likely save you shipping costs. This is just the one I use.

Sorry but this is my first syst11 pinball.
It seems that my assembly is missing the capacitor and the lane change switch?
First picture is mine, second picture is from the net of a syst11 flipper assembly.

How do I connect such system 11 flipper rebuild kit on my assembly. Were do the wire from the capacitor need to connect to the coil?
Where do I place the lane change switch and how do I connect that switch to the coil?

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Here’s how mine looks. On Taxi, the lane change switch is not up there by the flippers, it’s a microswitch near the flipper buttons themselves.

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Super thank you.
Were do you connect those 2 capacitor wires to?
Your info saves me a lot of cash.
I also have a lot of white powder on almost all the metal pieces under the playfield?
How do I clean that without damaging something? What causes that white powder anyway?

Might be a re-import from Central America?

Each lug of the EOS switch

I can chose which wire I connect to a certain lug or does It need to be in a certain way?

It seems that my coil is also installed upside down? Diodes are facing up while it needs to be facing down?

Doesn't matter, these caps are non polarized

Were all the holes predrilled correctly?

Do you place mylar on the hardtop at slings?

Your coil is technically upside down, not because of the diodes though, it’s because the lugs are on the same side as the coil stop which produces a lot of vibration and can cause the wires to break off easier.

They were pretty good, the only one missing was for the support on the wireform ramp return on one side. Easy enough to Dremel out. A few more had to be enlarged but nothing too difficult. No Mylar is needed on this product.

You sanded al your playfield? Which kind of grain did you use? Clearcoated your playfield and inserts afterwards?

I only sanded the inserts not the full playfield. I believe I started with 220 and worked my way up to 2000, I didn’t clear the inserts just polished them. They look really good with light under them

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Can you keep those posts, ball through, back lanes and wood on the playfield to fix the hardtop on the playfield or do you need to remove all those things to a total flat playfield?
How did you polish your inserts?
Really beatifull playfield!

Nothing on the playfield at all, not even the outhole coil. Black wooden rails came off too. The only things I left in place were the kickbig eject for the spinout and the two sling solenoids and switches. It would have made it easier to drop it out though as it made it harder to get down with those semi in the way. This is what was in place when the hardtop was put down. Lower ball trough, two slings and the kick big

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Could you position the missing hole on the hardtop from the support post?

Did you get rid of all the metal under the playfield when standing it?

I have a little stress of putting it on the playfield and also the bumpers give me stress

You can put the missing hole wherever you need it to line up. I positioned that wireform and then drilled the hole with the dremel. The one that was missing uses a wood screw so it doesn’t have to be perfect with the old one. The worst part was dealing with the posts that had locktite holding them together forcing you to either go very slow with a soldering iron or just break and replace. After one of them I opted to go ahead and break and replace as they are only about $1 each and I only had to break like 6-8 of them. The hardest part of the pop bumper was the lamp sockets. Those were kind of a pain to get out and then in correctly. A tip, it’s much easier to solder the AC braid to the pop bumper lead that it is the other way around so try and slide the lead underneath the braid vs over it.

Paint the bottom and inside black or just a good cleaning?
Touch up the cabinet or leave it like that?

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Paint the bottom/inside black - no (simply because when I'm looking for things that fall down, harder when it's darker in there)....touch up the cabinet - yes - you'll regret it if you don't do it now...

Is there any part list of Taxi?
Pinballlife has all the flippers except Taxi?

A lot of the playfield posts snapped and I want to order the correct references

Most posts are 6-32 and the screws need to be machine screw 6-32 by 2inches so they are long enough to reach through the playfield. Hopefully you didn’t break the one on the right of the Marilyn/Lola target where there are 3 in a row as that one is more expensive. 6/32 lower with 8/32 upper.

Toine79 In regard to your flipper questions, when i restored my Taxi I followed this guide and I think it'll answer all of your questions:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284661

I broke a lot of post because they were glued under the playfield.

I work with metric system cm or mm so it is hard to find which posts I need to order.

Do not understand why this is not mentioned in the manual like on wpc games.

Several wood post with sharp point are broken.
Metal post holder screws are broken.
All the starpost screws with nut on it are broken.

Sanded my playfield yesterday for the first time with grain 120. Will do it again with 240 and 320.
Lot of inserts have tiny scratches in them. Not very clear yet so still some work to do.

I have one big concern.
Noticed that the playfield is not 100% flat. It seems that in the middle of the playfield from flipper tot MM target bank the playfield has worn out a bit.

How do I tackle that issue?

Is my Taxi a reimport? Doesn’t really matter to me as I’m working on making it like new again but I took a close look at the door last night and saw it had wiring for a 3rd coin chute or were they all just pre wired that way?

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That’s what makes the hardtop great, that type of wear is a non issue and will be bridged by the hardtop without any modification.

I installed a brand new Pinscore three weeks ago and has been working great until recently. Upon turning on the game the display was blank and then came on a few seconds later. Now, nothing. I reseated all connections and still nothing. Any ideas?

I’d try the ribbon cable maybe needs replaced. Since the pin score eliminated high voltage either the ribbon cable is bad or the power isn’t getting there

Ok thanks. The ribbon cable is new. I’ll keep fiddling

You could also test the pins on whatever connector you’re using and see if it has 5v.

Can anyone tell me what this white round thing next to the coin mech is? Been trying to figure out why my game rejects coins every time with known working mechs. It seems like some kind of switch, if I manually pull the tab back the coin falls through as expected but normally these things are blocking good coins from going through and they instead get rejected. Would like to have functioning coin mechanism.

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Coin lockout. When the machine is off, these prevent the game from accepting coins. Any coin inserted will be rejected. When the game is on, the coil is energized, and coins can be accepted. If the coil isn't working, the plate/armature can't move towards the coil to allow coins to pass. These are not needed in home use. Easiest thing to do is remove the plate. If you remove the coils, be sure to keep the wires daisy chained and insulate them well.

And wouldn’t you know it, the brown wire on those is missing from the connector, I don’t see it in the wire bundle either so must have been done long ago. None of my other games have these so I was confused as to what they were doing!

I have one more question regarding the hardtop installatie. I hope you understand what I mean.

When I fix the hardtop on the original playfield and reassamble the plastics do I need to trim the hardtop around the predrilled screw holes to insert the screws on the playfield?

Does the bottom of the screw touch the original playfield or does it touch the hardtop so the hardtop is squeezed between playfield and screw?

So the hardtop gets squeezed between the screw and the playfield. Hold only has to be large enough for the screw to go through but the top of the screw sits on the hardtop. You only have to enlarge holes that aren’t lined up perfectly. A lot of mine lined up good enough to where I didn’t have to do anything but some needed enlarging with a dremel tool. The hardest part by far was taking the playfield apart and prepping it. The reassembly was quite easy.

Ok Thanks for the info.
Bussy with preparation.
Still need to clear those inserts. Any tips to let them shine again?

Anybody have seen a post between the 2 flippers like on the second picture?
The ball cannot drain in the middle.

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There should not be a center post on this game. I’d take it off when you put the hardtop down. I just ended up using polish vs a true clear on mine and they look great.

Thats the situation after several clear shots.
Also cracks in It but they look more clear.

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This will be my last dumb question before the installation.
Do you dremel the hardtop before final installation of after the installation?

After. Just using it to make sure the holes are big enough for the screw to drop in. Be careful when putting it down though as it tries to run away! Lol.

I will do it in two times..
Put some screws in the back and fix the front on the playfield. Afterwards I will fix the back side.

Something strange here with my Taxi.
Playfield, software and original instruction card are with Marilyn.
Original translite with mirror with Lola.

Ordered a hardtop in USA with Marilyn.

Keep it like this or do I need to look after a Monroe translite?

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Exact same as mine. I’ll be buying a Marilyn backglass but not in any hurry

In USA Marilyn version is more rare as in Europe, it seems.
Strange they mixed up playfield and Translite.
Maybe I will keep it like this.
Best of both world.

Did you use any led flashers in backbox or on playfield?
GI in warm white or sunlight white from Comet?

I used comet cool white an I think it looks good. Sunlight would be my backup though. I have led flashers. Under the inserts I used warm white for the faces in both locations cool white under the yellows, green under green, red under red, the single orange, red inside pop bumpers, cool white under the inlanes and 1 million.

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Anybody used a RAL color code for touch ups on the inside and outside of the cabinet?

I got back to playing my Taxi again finally after finally putting it back together. I get such a varying behaviour from the from the plunger it really is annoying me. I spent a lot of time getting it working really well (being able to wrap around the bowl shot so it is really a skill shot), only to find it could barely go around 3-4 times. After playing it for a while it noticeably changed for the better and then got worse again after that. I tried making some alignment changes again and got things working better but the behaviour is constantly drifting.

Is this just the nature of the beast? This is the only machine I have that I have really ever had to give thought to making the plunger work.