(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,684 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by token84
  • Topic is favorited by 148 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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There are 3,684 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 74.
#1801 4 years ago

May not be useful if X-Pin is out of stock, but the jackpot display works fine in my Taxi. The grey vinyl gels do help a lot when the game is off.

#1802 4 years ago

I had great customer support when I ordered from x-pin. They originally sent me the wrong jackpot display by mistake. One email and 2 days later the correct one was in the mailbox. I still have the gel covers for mine, but the unlit display doesnt really bother me anymore. It's kinda grown on me I guess.

#1803 4 years ago
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#1804 4 years ago

Some pics of my restored Taxi i wanted to share..
mirco playfield, re clearedcoated.
New ramps, plastics, etc etc...
Love the way is looks!

#1805 4 years ago

How is the micro playfield? I’m thinking of picking one up.

Registration?

Colors?

Insert leveling?

10
#1806 4 years ago

And with that Taxi is officially the first piece of furniture in my home, gonna light it up tonight!

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#1807 4 years ago

Can’t wait to see that topper!

#1808 4 years ago

And kaboom! There was one weird issue that I’m not sure if it’s due to board design or just a fluke. One of the flashers on the left side literally smoked out, other than that it works!

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#1809 4 years ago

My oddball Taxi! Playfield is definitely original and has Marilyn, ROMS and backglass Lola hmmm lol. But with some lighting adjustments and some TLC this thing will be all mine!

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#1810 4 years ago

So I haven’t actually looked at the switch yet but the test report has an error on there that’s odd to me. “Check switch 19 right jet bumper”. Normally wouldn’t be odd, what’s odd is the bumper is working correctly during gameplay. Surely there aren’t multiple switches there but I’m sure I’ll figure it out once I take a look. Anyone else have something like this happen?

#1811 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

So I haven’t actually looked at the switch yet but the test report has an error on there that’s odd to me. “Check switch 19 right jet bumper”. Normally wouldn’t be odd, what’s odd is the bumper is working correctly during gameplay. Surely there aren’t multiple switches there but I’m sure I’ll figure it out once I take a look. Anyone else have something like this happen?

Probably just the scoring switch for the right jet bumper. A quick switch test will help you out there.
*EDIT: I had the same issue on F14 Tomcat. Left sling operated correctly but didnt score when the slingshot coil activated. My switch was just out of adjustment.*

Funny I also have a Marilyn on my PF but Lola on the BG.

#1812 4 years ago

“Check left lane change” hmm you don’t say... idk how some people come up with this stuff
On an unrelated note, does anyone know where this ground braid is supposed to go?

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#1813 4 years ago

That ground braid goes to the coin door, I believe.

#1814 4 years ago

Correct attaches to coin door. Here's 2 picts of mine I'm redoing at this time:

DSCN8033 (resized).JPGDSCN8033 (resized).JPGDSCN8034 (resized).JPGDSCN8034 (resized).JPG
#1815 4 years ago

Thanks for pics! Gonna have to order 2 new switches. The adjustment on the bumper couldn’t get much tighter, it just doesn’t have any spring left in it and won’t go down once the bumper lowers.
When I first got game almost every eject from the Santa/Joyride/Gorbie was going SDTM. Checked level 7 degrees. Reduced to 6 degrees and now ejecting to left flipper every time!

Is the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet supposed to have a capacitor on it? When I first turn game on it hums pretty loud, after playing a game or two, the hum quiets to almost nothing.

#1816 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Thanks for pics! Gonna have to order 2 new switches. The adjustment on the bumper couldn’t get much tighter, it just doesn’t have any spring left in it and won’t go down once the bumper lowers.
When I first got game almost every eject from the Santa/Joyride/Gorbie was going SDTM. Checked level 7 degrees. Reduced to 6 degrees and now ejecting to left flipper every time!
Is the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet supposed to have a capacitor on it? When I first turn game on it hums pretty loud, after playing a game or two, the hum quiets to almost nothing.

My taxi had a bit of a humming sound..I touched the volume pot inside of the cabinet (left side) and it temporarily went away. Ideally, I’d take it apart, and clean it/spray some air n assemble it again..

#1817 4 years ago

If I touch the volume it quiets just a tad. I think it’s an old capacitor somewhere in the game because after sitting for 5 minute idle or about 2 minutes playing a game it quiets completely.

#1818 4 years ago

Spray some deoxit in the volume knob and turn back and forth several times..it’ll be good as new after!

#1819 4 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Correct attaches to coin door. Here's 2 picts of mine I'm redoing at this time:[quoted image][quoted image]

So I’m pretty sure this isn’t the original coin door and I know it’s missing parts. Does it matter where on the door I put the braid as it doesn’t look like yours

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1820 4 years ago

My thoughts are "no", it doesn't matter, as long as you attach it to a good grounded surface (no painted surface).

#1821 4 years ago

Joined the club yesterday! I plan to do a full restore on her. Can’t wait to get started!

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#1822 4 years ago

I have a question about the bell. The bell in my game sounds one ”ding” during gameplay when you hit something in the game that activates the bell (multiball, large mystery bonus, etc). I believe the bell is supposed to sound a full ring?

In coil test mode, the bell sounds one “ding” like it does in game. The wiring looks good. Any suggestions?

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#1823 4 years ago

That switch should be opening when the striker hits the bell to cut power and let the coil release

#1824 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

That switch should be opening when the striker hits the bell to cut power and let the coil release

That was it, the left switch leaf needed to be adjusted back a little so the contacts are just barely touching. The left contact had too much pressure on the right contact so the switch wasn’t opening fully. Love that ringing bell! Thanks!!

#1825 4 years ago

Mine does the same thing. So what do we do to allow for a full ringing?

#1826 4 years ago

I adjusted the left leaf back so the contact still stays closed, but loose enough that it can open fully. I also cleaned the contacts. After I adjusted it, in coil test mode I could see the spark between the contacts.

In coil test it just does a single ding but in game play it fully rings.

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#1827 4 years ago

So you loosened the switch at the base and still kept it as a closed switch ?

#1828 4 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

So you loosened the switch at the base and still kept it as a closed switch ?

Yeah other pics I’ve seen show it’s nc, so I believe it is. The contacts on mine were just pressed against each other too hard. This pic shows what it looks like now and it’s working correctly.

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#1829 4 years ago

Newest Taxi Club member logging in. We've had our Taxi for about 19 years now,...the kids loved it growing up,...it went dormant for a few years, then into storage for several years between moves,...but it's time to dust off the cob webs, and bring, what is quite possibly the best Pinball Machine ever made, back to life and start that meter running! Found this site researching parts and issues, some really great and helpful posts, and love to see the enthusiasm this game brings and deserves!! Restoration is underway!

#1830 4 years ago

Just arrived from Germany! Gotta put some part orders together and get started!

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#1831 4 years ago

Weird issue that popped up today while playing. All the sudden, the GI isn’t flashing anymore when it should. Bell stopped working. I think it’s related but does anyone know where to look?
Seems like everything that’s not working is connected to brown wires on J12 on CPU board. It looks a little funky but reseating didn’t help

#1832 4 years ago

Here is the suspect connector, nothing from it is working, I noticed solder on it. I haven’t done any work to this game so maybe it has to do with that

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#1833 4 years ago

Here is the back of the board

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#1834 4 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Here is the back of the board[quoted image]

Those are some really bad solder joints. Looks like one of them isn't making contact at all. Do you have the skills to fix it?

#1835 4 years ago

No I don’t. Fortunately I work somewhere that can show me how. Although I think it may have blown a fuse from those unclipped transistor legs. Which one? Who knows! System 11 manuals don’t really give much description on what the fuses do

#1836 4 years ago

Went to work and clipped those transistor legs. Every transistor on the board tested good. So hopefully the legs just touched the backbox metal and blew the fuse. Have to wait for new ones to come In.

10
#1837 4 years ago

Finally got my hardtop on!
1st time doing this sort of thing and wasn't sure if I could get out of the hole I was digging on disassembly... but I got it all back together and everything works!!! Great learning experience!

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#1838 3 years ago

Everything on my Taxi has been sorted out including the fit it threw the other day. I even managed to take the spinout from getting to 75k max and now it’s rolling over to 10k on full plunge. I got worried when I first started adjusting it because after messing with it it wouldn’t go past 25k. Big relief when I was able to get it! Kind of a hack but I had to shim the shooter rod to angle down more because it was too high and was as low as it could get in the cabinet hole.

#1839 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Everything on my Taxi has been sorted out including the fit it threw the other day. I even managed to take the spinout from getting to 75k max and now it’s rolling over to 10k on full plunge. I got worried when I first started adjusting it because after messing with it it wouldn’t go past 25k. Big relief when I was able to get it! Kind of a hack but I had to shim the shooter rod to angle down more because it was too high and was as low as it could get in the cabinet hole.

Slap an MRS on and get even more spins out it! C'mon, you're leaving me hanging!

#1840 3 years ago

Sonic where can an MRS be purchased? Thanks

#1841 3 years ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

sonic where can an MRS be purchased? Thanks

From me - we make them! Just PM me....

Matt with M&M Creations

#1842 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Everything on my Taxi has been sorted out including the fit it threw the other day. I even managed to take the spinout from getting to 75k max and now it’s rolling over to 10k on full plunge. I got worried when I first started adjusting it because after messing with it it wouldn’t go past 25k. Big relief when I was able to get it! Kind of a hack but I had to shim the shooter rod to angle down more because it was too high and was as low as it could get in the cabinet hole.

Mine has a quarter wedged under the bottom of the shooter housing.... Maybe a common fix?

#1843 3 years ago

Lol that’s exactly what I did just wedged a quarter under it.

#1844 3 years ago

Is there any way to adjust the joyride kickout? Mine goes SDTM more than I’d like it to. I don’t see any obvious way to do it but I do see the mechanism is very far to the right of the opening.

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#1845 3 years ago

You should be able to bend the end of the mech that strikes the ball one way or the other. That should help.

#1846 3 years ago

So I’ve decided to do a thing... outside edge will take care of this horrid upper playfield

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#1847 3 years ago

Does anyone know the best way to take these switches off? The wires seem bent in a way to where the gates don’t want to come off. Should I just pull the switch actuator off underneath the playfield?

Also I have 3 T nuts that I can’t figure out how to get out. Locktite used I’m sure. I broke one. Others just spin and the nut on the bottom is not gripping the playfield so I can’t get them out. Any ideas?

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#1848 3 years ago

Loosen the switch underneath and remove it from the wire hanging down.

Can you grab the loose T nuts with vice grips or something?

#1849 3 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Loosen the switch underneath and remove it from the wire hanging down.
Can you grab the loose T nuts with vice grips or something?

That did it thanks! These T nuts are being stubborn. That’s the last bit of trouble it’s gonna give me. Here is where I am currently

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#1850 3 years ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Lol that’s exactly what I did just wedged a quarter under it.

Does it show on the front of the cab though? Like cosmetically, can you see it? Curious about this fix..

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