(Topic ID: 75868)

Taxi Club... Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,702 posts
  • 239 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by JeffZee
  • Topic is favorited by 101 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

Topic Gallery

There have been 471 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20200215_191214 (resized).jpg
15818131288184126448961256258943 (resized).jpg
20200201_160527 (resized).jpg
011 (resized).jpg
9DA8E064-D7D1-4A2E-8515-199A29DB232C (resized).jpeg
20200208_132039 (resized).jpg
20200127_194329 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200127_094438048 (resized).jpg
20200126_170656 (resized).jpg
D7583942-1D33-4141-8081-C677A43572C8 (resized).jpeg
2566EA1E-D428-44B9-AE61-22FCAE784461 (resized).jpeg
1C68E1B9-5CED-4C24-A578-0CBD4B75D120 (resized).jpeg
6A3560A2-678F-4C05-9C86-915A8076A45F (resized).jpeg
83AC5894-1202-4474-889B-5ACB602B2F66 (resized).jpeg
FDF316B6-9072-458C-B729-E5B8EDC5729E (resized).jpeg
IMG_20200114_221205 (resized).jpg

There are 1702 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 35.
#1651 20 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

System 11 games are my favorite generation of games. Simple enough to explain rules to people who may otherwise not understand rules of pinball, but deep enough to hold long term interest of those who do. I love a deep ruleset as much as the next person does, but I simply don't have the desire to sit in front of a super deep game like LotR for 45 minutes and slog away at it.

I guess this depends upon your level of skill and how much work you're willing to put into it. I'm planning on hardtopping my Taxi in the next month or so, and I can definitely let you know how the process is going. This will be my first hard top installation.

Been spending a lot of time figuring out the hardtop thing. A playfield swap seems to be a good 40-80 hours of work regardless of game... at least to do it right. A hardtop seems to be 5 to 8 hours. That's to remove everything from the top of the playfield, sand down, apply, and re-install. I have decided the swap is a hard no but may look into the hardtop. I'm loving the game so far (top 5 for sure). If I can do a good job touching up the cabinet I might do the hardtop. I've gotten all the broken parts I needed off of ebay and a few random places. I'm surprised there are not more companies making repros on this one.

#1652 20 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

A playfield swap seems to be a good 40-80 hours of work regardless of game... at least to do it right. A hardtop seems to be 5 to 8 hours.

So, I've had 2 playfield swaps done on my games: One on my Whirlwind and the other on my AFM. While I didn't complete the swap, I friend and pinsider did. The process is laborious, and often requires drilling of new holes for posts and such, but it allows for the opportunity to completely rebuild everything top to bottom. I simply do not have the tools nor the skillset to do a full blown playfield swap myself. It is really satisfying knowing you essentially have a brand new game when you do a proper swap.

Hardtopping seems to be much more forgiving. It seems like there's a recommendation floating around to clearcoat the inserts, but I don't intend on doing that with my game. I plan on stripping the topside down to the wood, leaving everything underside attached, and just using a headlight restore kit to polish the inserts to a crystal clear shine after I sand away the artwork. Then, just reassemble everything.

My typical shopout consists of stripping the playfield almost entirely anyway, so doing the hardtop really only creates a little more work for me, which is why I chose that route for my Taxi. Plus, the option is exponentially cheaper.

#1653 20 days ago

Let me know how it goes on that hardtop. I’m thinking about it for mine I just got but haven’t done a playfield swap. I’m comfortable taking things off the top though

#1654 19 days ago

The t-nuts on system 11's suck. Make sure to order a handful when you go to do a swap or hard top.

#1655 19 days ago
Quoted from V_piscopo:

The t-nuts on system 11's suck. Make sure to order a handful when you go to do a swap or hard top.

This, x1000. It's the loctite they used. I learned after the fact that you should heat up the t-nuts with a soldering iron to loosen the goo on the posts.

#1656 19 days ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

This, x1000. It's the loctite they used. I learned after the fact that you should heat up the t-nuts with a soldering iron to loosen the goo on the posts.

This is very good to know. I just went through this issue after shopping out my super mario bros. Gottlieb used loctite as well, and I sheered off almost every one.

What size does Taxi use? I'll load up ahead of time so I don't have to worry about stopping midway through to order more.

#1657 19 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

This is very good to know. I just went through this issue after shopping out my super mario bros. Gottlieb used loctite as well, and I sheered off almost every one.
What size does Taxi use? I'll load up ahead of time so I don't have to worry about stopping midway through to order more.

I had a ton of issues on my Whirlwind with the loctite. It was a mix of #6 and 8. Had to heat up each t nut with a soldering iron for a minute or two. Now I'm shopping a Stargate and having the same issue. Gottlieb's loctite seems to be even stronger than williams

#1658 19 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

So, I've had 2 playfield swaps done on my games: One on my Whirlwind and the other on my AFM. While I didn't complete the swap, I friend and pinsider did. The process is laborious, and often requires drilling of new holes for posts and such, but it allows for the opportunity to completely rebuild everything top to bottom. I simply do not have the tools nor the skillset to do a full blown playfield swap myself. It is really satisfying knowing you essentially have a brand new game when you do a proper swap.
Hardtopping seems to be much more forgiving. It seems like there's a recommendation floating around to clearcoat the inserts, but I don't intend on doing that with my game. I plan on stripping the topside down to the wood, leaving everything underside attached, and just using a headlight restore kit to polish the inserts to a crystal clear shine after I sand away the artwork. Then, just reassemble everything.
My typical shopout consists of stripping the playfield almost entirely anyway, so doing the hardtop really only creates a little more work for me, which is why I chose that route for my Taxi. Plus, the option is exponentially cheaper.

So after thinking on it a while, my Taxi doesn't really need a hardtop. There is some discolleration between the areas that have been mylard and the playfield as a whole, but it's not bad. I have some wear by the bumpers which I may touch up (poorly) and there is a chipped jewel by the left drop. I am debating ordering a new insert decal set to make Santa/Gorbie more presentable but overall they are not bad. I ordered a used ramp off of ebay for less than a new decal to fix the decal would be, and have a new long taxi plastic on it's way. I think overall it is pretty good. My next step is going to be touching up the cabinet yellow. If I can get the color match just right I think this will clean up to be a super nice machine.

20200127_194329 (resized).jpg
#1659 18 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

So after thinking on it a while, my Taxi doesn't really need a hardtop. There is some discolleration between the areas that have been mylard and the playfield as a whole, but it's not bad. I have some wear by the bumpers which I may touch up (poorly) and there is a chipped jewel by the left drop. I am debating ordering a new insert decal set to make Santa/Gorbie more presentable but overall they are not bad. I ordered a used ramp off of ebay for less than a new decal to fix the decal would be, and have a new long taxi plastic on it's way. I think overall it is pretty good. My next step is going to be touching up the cabinet yellow. If I can get the color match just right I think this will clean up to be a super nice machine.[quoted image]

Im in the same boat.... to do, or not to do a Hardtop. My playfield is a player. Has the factory mylar. But above the mylar in the pops area the color looks like the game sat in a smoky bar for most of its life. Its not stinky like tobacco but looks god awful dull and yellowed. I just cant bring myself to sand down a mostly good playfield especially not knowing if Ill like the feel of a hardtop.

Anyone else have opinions on the way the hardtop itself plays?? Id be pissed if I finally do a hardtop and hate the feel of it. Im getting ready to do a hardtop for a friends EBD so I suppose that will give me a firm idea wether or not I personally like them.

#1660 18 days ago

I have a hardtop on my space shuttle and love it. After waxing, plays extremely fast! Can’t really tell it’s not wood, it just looks like a very clear coated playfield. I have one for my taxi. Won’t be getting to it for awhile, though.

1 week later
#1661 9 days ago

Can people tell me how well their skill shots are working? I have been playing forever with the set up for mine. I altered the cabinet opening to let me line the plunger up better. The ball was shooting left into the wall at first. Slo-mo video helped debug that. My SpinOut ramp was tilted left a bit and it made a huge difference to level it.

Now a full stroke is usually 100k, and often goes one short to 75k or one more to 1k. It still seems a bit easy to hit 100k though it would be more of a skill shot if it would wrap around a few more turns.

#1662 9 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Has anyone done anything to protect the left ramp where the catapult hits it? Both mine have had cracks there...

Remember a spacer is missing at the end of the wire form ramp...
It was on the OEM games when brand new. I believe it is 1/4" long
grey round spacer.

#1663 9 days ago

It’s a pita to setup. A big part of it is making sure the plunger strikes dead centre of the ball. Mine will sometimes spin round the clock twice, more often a full plunge will eek out to 100k. I always try and plunge for 20k and a passenger anyway so it doesn’t bother me too much.

#1664 9 days ago

I played around with mine for a long time and eventually gave up. There's no consistency. Sometimes the ball is so smooth and makes so many revolutions that the awards are scrolled through twice. Sometimes the ball dies without one revolution. Most plunges are somewhere in between.

#1665 9 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Can people tell me how well their skill shots are working? I have been playing forever with the set up for mine. I altered the cabinet opening to let me line the plunger up better. The ball was shooting left into the wall at first. Slo-mo video helped debug that. My SpinOut ramp was tilted left a bit and it made a huge difference to level it.
Now a full stroke is usually 100k, and often goes one short to 75k or one more to 1k. It still seems a bit easy to hit 100k though it would be more of a skill shot if it would wrap around a few more turns.

I have discovered the main variable in my skill shot is ambient temperature in the room. When I have my basement heater on at 70 the skill shot is very different than before I get up and it's running at around 50.

#1666 9 days ago

Mine gets to 10k on a full plunge pretty consistently. I've played some though that can get all the way back to 100 a second time

#1667 9 days ago

When I first started playing with it, the plunger was way to the right and high, it was lucky to go around 3 times (10k). At one point I started lifting the playfield manually and found with it still to the right but now artificially lower I could get it to go around 20 times, it was insane. But I have never achieved that by setting it up properly for some reason. I have opened up the cabinet hole enough that I can get down too low which lobs the ball up and hits the underside of the wire ramp.

The temperature thing is interesting. I have a Titan rubber tip and had been thinking I should go back to a regular rubber one as a test.

I notice that glass out and lock bar removed works better. Somehow clamping the lock bar down on the glass makes a subtle change. I lose 1-2 turns with everything done up.

Definitely the most finicky plunger I have ever dealt with.

#1668 9 days ago

it seems to be a bit of a common problem w this game. I took my shooter rod all apart earlier this week, cleaned the sleeve, and l even put a washer behind the plate inside of the game to align the tip in the middle of the ball. Most of the time now, I can achieve 50-75 thousand on a full pull back; I purchased a new red spring the other day, hopefully it makes a difference ( I doubt it) guess I’ll find out later this evening..

#1669 9 days ago
Quoted from hwyhed:

it seems to be a bit of a common problem w this game. I took my shooter rod all apart earlier this week, cleaned the sleeve, and l even put a washer behind the plate inside of the game to align the tip in the middle of the ball. Most of the time now, I can achieve 50-75 thousand on a full pull back; I purchased a new red spring the other day, hopefully it makes a difference ( I doubt it) guess I’ll find out later this evening..

You raise a good point. I happened to buy a new plunger casting and when I installed it I found the plunger tip was more left than before. So while you can slide everything around to get the tip where you want, it does not mean the plunger axis is lined up behind the ball correctly. You can have the tip squared up perfectly, and be shooting in an incorrect direction. I believe my new housing is squared up and the old one is cocked a bit.

#1670 9 days ago

Officially going to pick up early tomorrow morning, can anyone tell me the height of the game with the head folded down, legs off?

#1671 8 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Officially going to pick up early tomorrow morning, can anyone tell me the height of the game with the head folded down, legs off?

20200208_132039 (resized).jpg
#1672 8 days ago

It fit lol

9DA8E064-D7D1-4A2E-8515-199A29DB232C (resized).jpeg
#1673 7 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

You raise a good point. I happened to buy a new plunger casting and when I installed it I found the plunger tip was more left than before. So while you can slide everything around to get the tip where you want, it does not mean the plunger axis is lined up behind the ball correctly. You can have the tip squared up perfectly, and be shooting in an incorrect direction. I believe my new housing is squared up and the old one is cocked a bit.

So I took it apart last night, and installed the new red spring..it was about an inch longer then the previous..it didn’t really seem to make much of a difference. Maybe a lil more oomph, I can get 50-75 consistently. I think w a little more time/patience, by aligning the rod a lil higher could make a difference..but w a new spring, I did manage to hit my high score on her last night!

#1674 7 days ago
Quoted from hwyhed:

So I took it apart last night, and installed the new red spring..it was about an inch longer then the previous..it didn’t really seem to make much of a difference. Maybe a lil more oomph, I can get 50-75 consistently. I think w a little more time/patience, by aligning the rod a lil higher could make a difference..but w a new spring, I did manage to hit my high score on her last night!

Try shimming the entrance of the ramp !
Ball needs to enter smoothly ! Least amount of resistance . GL

#1675 7 days ago

I took many of these videos while I was tuning my plunger. This was early on in the process. With the naked eye you cannot see this at all. A surprising amount of energy is lost while smacking that wall. It is slowed down already but YouTube speed controls let you slow it down even more. I should add this is now fixed I have moved the plunger to the left.

#1676 7 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I took many of these videos while I was tuning my plunger. This was early on in the process. With the naked eye you cannot see this at all. A surprising amount of energy is lost while smacking that wall. It is slowed down already but YouTube speed controls let you slow it down even more.

could be that worn eject area in shooter lane making ball go to the left, into the rail. (wall)

#1677 7 days ago

Anybody have interest in a new but slightly damaged taxi hardtop for cheap, it has one small blemish, brand new still has protective film on it, I also have a second rough playfield and lots of extra parts..of you want some pics just pm me..

#1678 7 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I took many of these videos while I was tuning my plunger. This was early on in the process. With the naked eye you cannot see this at all. A surprising amount of energy is lost while smacking that wall. It is slowed down already but YouTube speed controls let you slow it down even more.

I have noticed the velocity issues with mine as well , i think the wear on the wood caused by the ball loader that little bulbous hollowed out area doesn't support the ball during its trajectory allowing for the wall hit , if you adjust your shooter around (like a pool cue) you might get a better trajectory . if someone could invent a thin plastic sleeve to fit in to the groove to guide the ball better maybe it would help

#1679 7 days ago

try cutting a thin piece of plastic that will form into the groove and attach with double stick tape and see if that answers this problem

#1680 6 days ago
Quoted from ZEN:

Anybody have interest in a new but slightly damaged taxi hardtop for cheap, it has one small blemish, brand new still has protective film on it, I also have a second rough playfield and lots of extra parts..of you want some pics just pm me..

Interested. PM sent.

#1681 6 days ago
Quoted from freddy:

could be that worn eject area in shooter lane making ball go to the left, into the rail. (wall)

this is precisely what was happening with my taxi. Had to fix the shooter lane to correct the issue.

#1682 6 days ago
Quoted from brandsilence:

this is precisely what was happening with my taxi. Had to fix the shooter lane to correct the issue.

Had a similar issue on my Black Rose and Cliffy sent me some nice shooter lane 'protectors' that I used to shape the lane correctly

#1683 6 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Had a similar issue on my Black Rose and Cliffy sent me some nice shooter lane 'protectors' that I used to shape the lane correctly

Where would a man find these?

#1684 6 days ago
Quoted from hwyhed:

Where would a man find these?

Not sure if he has them all listed, but most are at https://www.passionforpinball.com/ballejects.htm

I just emailed him and explained my issue, and he told me which ones I'd need

#1685 5 days ago

look at this right here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=115&v=I198Xn_IHug&feature=emb_title

this link shows the very ending seconds for some reason quickly start it from the beginning before the next video

Tutorial Ghostbusters Shooter Lane Protector

#1687 3 days ago

Anyone know where I can find a new replace drop target board at? My Pinbot drops aren't working correctly on right side and I believe the opts are bad on the board.

#1688 3 days ago

Plus on my dracula VUK the ball slings out onto the ramp and sometimes shoots over it and hits the glass. Is there suppose to be a plastic covering the ramp in this area to prevent the ball from flying off the ramp? There's a plastic cover but on the far right side of the ramp.

#1689 3 days ago

If none of the targets work it may be a power problem. I had problems with the same board on both Taxi and Space Station. It was as simple as replacing the power connector. I guess the old connectors loosened up because they're only held by a few pins.

011 (resized).jpg

#1690 3 days ago
Quoted from JeffZee:

If none of the targets work it may be a power problem. I had problems with the same board on both Taxi and Space Station. It was as simple as replacing the power connector. I guess the old connectors loosened up because they're only held by a few pins.
[quoted image]

Okay thanks I'll reflow solder here and make a new connector and hopefully that will fix the issue..

#1691 2 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Okay thanks I'll reflow solder here and make a new connector and hopefully that will fix the issue..

A good disassembly and cleaning will also do wonders if they're sluggish or hang up when dropping.

#1692 2 days ago

Here's a weird issue I am having too. One of the top roller over switches isn't registering during gameplay but works fine in switch test mode..

#1693 2 days ago

I assume you know better, but are you testing with your finger or the ball?

#1694 2 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I assume you know better, but are you testing with your finger or the ball?

I had it in switch test modeand tested with my finger to make sure and during gameplay did the samething..

#1695 2 days ago

Hmm if you’re testing with finger in both game and test then idk. Is there any apparent diodes or wires that are backwards? Can cause some weird issues if the matrix is messed with.

#1696 2 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Hmm if you’re testing with finger in both game and test then idk. Is there any apparent diodes or wires that are backwards? Can cause some weird issues if the matrix is messed with.

Yeah very strange, works in test mode but not during regular gameplay..

#1697 1 day ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah very strange, works in test mode but not during regular gameplay..

Does the rollover lane make any noise in gameplay? I'd start by cleaning the switch contacts and pulling the rollover wire up just a bit so it has a little more travel when the ball rolls over it.

I like to pull the switch out and clean them good with a clean crisp dollar bill. It has just enough texture to clean well without being abrasive and scratching off the plating. I assume you're talking about one of the CAB lanes? Do the other two make the noise and light up? I would think it's much more likely to be intermittent and coincidentally working in switch test. I dont understand why it would work in test but not gameplay. Definitely odd.

#1698 1 day ago

Does anyone else have an issue with the Gorbie/Jackpot shot rolling out of the saucer? Sometimes I get super ticked at mine when I light Jackpot, nail the shot dead on, and hit it so hard the ball just flops right back out before resting in the saucer and triggering the switch.

#1699 1 day ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Does the rollover lane make any noise in gameplay? I'd start by cleaning the switch contacts and pulling the rollover wire up just a bit so it has a little more travel when the ball rolls over it.
I like to pull the switch out and clean them good with a clean crisp dollar bill. It has just enough texture to clean well without being abrasive and scratching off the plating. I assume you're talking about one of the CAB lanes? Do the other two make the noise and light up? I would think it's much more likely to be intermittent and coincidentally working in switch test. I dont understand why it would work in test but not gameplay. Definitely odd.

Yeah my plan is to replace the cab switch. I agree it doesn’t make sense that it would work during switch test mode and not during gameplay first time I have come across this too.

#1700 18 hours ago

Before and after. Getting better at touchups!

20200201_160527 (resized).jpg15818131288184126448961256258943 (resized).jpg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
2,600
Machine - For Sale
Redondo Beach, CA
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 129.10
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
$ 17.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Rochester, NY
There are 1702 posts in this topic. You are on page 34 of 35.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside